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GS neutral light ....no start

sufferin_boothead

Sufferin Boothead
Does anyone have any ideas what to do to fix the problem I have with a 'neutral issue'. My '95 GS will only start if the neutral dash light is green. This means it can't run with sidestand down and if it stalls in gear, it won't start with hand clutch pulled in but only once the bike is put in neutral and the green light comes back on. Any suggestions?
 
Does anyone have any ideas what to do to fix the problem I have with a 'neutral issue'. My '95 GS will only start if the neutral dash light is green. This means it can't run with sidestand down and if it stalls in gear, it won't start with hand clutch pulled in but only once the bike is put in neutral and the green light comes back on. Any suggestions?

You need to replace the clutch switch up on the handlebar. Then it will start in-gear if the clutch is pulled.
 
There are a couple of Oilhead threads in the Similar Threads pane below that seem to address this issue. Check them out for some ideas. Let us know if you figure this issue out! :thumb
 
I had a similar issue with the neutral light when I bought my 94 RS a little over a year ago. I could never get the light to come on. I solved the problem by changing to a synthetic gear oil, I used the Motul 85/90 gear oil and the issue disappeared. whoops misread the issue, clutch switch as Paul indicated.
 
You can bypass the clutch switch by shorting the wires that come out of the switch while you are waiting to acquire a new switch or have it replaced at your nearest dealership. I am of the opinion that it is not necessary to begin with.
 
You can bypass the clutch switch by shorting the wires that come out of the switch while you are waiting to acquire a new switch or have it replaced at your nearest dealership. I am of the opinion that it is not necessary to begin with.

Indeed it is not necessary as long as the rider is perfect and never makes an error like pushing the starter button while in gear with the switch bypassed. When the bike starts, shoots from underneath the rider, careens into traffic causing a box truck to hit a bus full of elementary school kids head-on the owner might need more than the minimum $25,000 liability insurance required in many states.

My point: If you are perfect you might not need the safety interlock. If you have ever made a mistake then it might prove helpful. You bike; your health; your money. YMMV

p.s. It is a $25 part that takes a few minutes to replace. Not a big deal maintenance wise.
 
thanks

Thanks Paul and company. I'll give Bob's BWM a call to get a new clutch switch and have CS Moto in Oshawa (Ontario Canada) install it when I get some other work done in spring. Haven't used them yet but they seem knowledgeable from talking to them.
 
Not a fan of leaving the switched bypassed forever.......It's a good way to test and prove out the problem. I've actually had pretty good luck spraying those kind of switches with WD-40 and having them work again.....although it's temporary.
I'm feeling at the bikes age, its a good guess.
OM
 
Indeed it is not necessary as long as the rider is perfect .....

I'm one of those. In fact, I'm so perfect I almost launched my non-interlock equipped Italian bike off the front of a ferry when another passenger wanted to hear what the motor sounded like.
 
I'm one of those. In fact, I'm so perfect I almost launched my non-interlock equipped Italian bike off the front of a ferry when another passenger wanted to hear what the motor sounded like.

Although I never launched it, my favorite trick on my (non-switch-protected) airhead was to ride off the ferry with the sidestand down - no problems until the WHOOPS at the first LH turn 6 blocks from the terminal.

I think the ferry problem is caused by idling during the wait until the targets, er, pedestrians clear the ramp. (Quote from a deck hand when I was a little too antsy to get started: "Hey, at least give 'em a head start.")
 
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Indeed it is not necessary as long as the rider is perfect and never makes an error like pushing the starter button while in gear with the switch bypassed. When the bike starts, shoots from underneath the rider, careens into traffic causing a box truck to hit a bus full of elementary school kids head-on the owner might need more than the minimum $25,000 liability insurance required in many states.

Dang Paul, you're scareing me! Maybe I'd better sell my bikes and take a taxi to lunch!
 
My '00 RT has the classic lazy neutral switch so when I start the bike even though it is physically in neutral the starter will not engage. Pulling my my clutch with a fully functional clutch lever interlock switch I can still get the bike started instead of sitting there fiddling with the gear shifter and waiting until the lazy neutral switch decides it wants to turn on the green light.

I'm not a perfect rider. On day two of riding with a failed clutch lever switch I launched the bike forward by starting it in gear. Thankfully I was sitting on the bike in a ready position but I was fully loaded with a fresh tank of gas and luggage, headed for a rally. Picking up an RT in that state requires unloading it first and even then, it's good and heavy.

My 82 RS has a clutch interlock switch so this safety idea and allowing the rider to start the bike while in gear by pulling in the clutch was a good idea then and it's still a good idea now IMO. I've only defeated it once so I could get the bike started and get to the dealer for a new part. They are very very easy to replace. One tiny screw and one cable tie to replace the one you cut to unplug the dead one are all that is needed to fix it.
 
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