Foreign Film double feature: Pyrenees Getaway/Passed Out

[franze]

In Ocober of 07 I answered the ON editors call for submissions. I sent in the following ride reports. At this point, I figure they're not going to grace the pages of the club rag so here they are on the big screen. Any comments/analysis/snappy repartee I decide to add after re-reading these reports will be added IN CAPS

Pyrenees Getaway

I’ll never forget the first time I saw the Pyrenees. I was with my wife and kids and we were driving from Biarritz (nice name for a blue colored RT) France to the Spanish Mediterranean. I was surprised to see that they were still snow covered in mid-April and that they lined up in an orderly east-west chain, unlike the Alps which just pop up here and there and have no order at all. They form a natural border between France and Spain. I had just bought an R1100RT and had an upcoming two week ride with my best friend from high school (but that’s another story..)

HEY THAT STORY IS HERE http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=23431

but I knew that before I returned home to California, I would come back to these and do some exploring. That time arrived in early June of this year.
I had a four day window when I could go where ever I wanted. My boys were done with hockey practices and my daughter was too young and too “uni-lingual” to have after school activities so I was free to go where I wanted. The Pyrenees were high on my list. The weekend before, I made a quick, but worthwhile ride up to visit my friends and family (traveling by car) at Landstuhl AFB in Germany. I had heard that the Alsace-Lorraine region of France was more beautiful than the Black Forest of Germany and I wanted to see for myself. About half an hour into my trip, my speedometer died. Getting my speedometer fixed was a priority for me so my ride began by going to Chuard BMW of Geneva for the “final” fix of a speedo gear part before I left. This gave me a chance to talk with my local asset, Jurg Ambuhl (who has since left Chuard BMW and is currently riding his KTM somewhere in Tunisia, but that’s yet another story…)

AS OF JUNE 08, JURG IS WORKING AT INTERMOTO IN LAUSANNE. A GREAT ASSET FOR ANYONE WHO NEEDS HELP/ADVICE REGARDING RIDING IN EUROPE AND NORTH AFRICA.

who took some time to show me some possible routes through France on my way to Spain and the Pyrenees. I reluctantly took his advice and took the autoroute to Lyon where I then turned south onto a small road heading south from Rive de Gier. I basically followed one small road after another in a southward direction until I reached Bourg Argental where I took more small, unmarked roads in a southern direction until I reached D121 which took me in a south west direction. Note: the author freely and frequently uses the terminology “small”, “unmarked”, “ surface”, “rural”, “scenic” in conjunction with usage referring to “bewildered”, “ confused”, or “lost”. I kept heading south, (thank God for those 4 years of Scouting) through the larger towns of Vilevocance, St. Ageve, and eventually to Vals-les-Vains and then Aubenas where I was going to close in on the first place suggested to me by Jurg, Pont D’arc ( which in French means “arch bridge” ) in the stunning Gorges de L’Ardeche. I wasn’t disappointed in his referral and it’s a place I’m going to return to with my kids and kayaks. BOO-HOO I NEVER WENT BACK

Geography of Gorges de l'Ardreche

It was a hot day and I was hoping the road would soon leave the high elevation and get back down into the valley so I could enjoy some of the river. I got that opportunity at Pont St. Esprit where I enjoyed some relaxation time off the scooter.

After a quick dip in a cold river, I continued south on N86. One peculiar thing about the French roads is that every road had a few different names and if you are a “map guy” like me, you can end up quite easily in a scenic, rural, small, or unmarked situation. In Pouzilac I turned west and found this beautiful castle with motorcycle parking every 10 meters

I continued in a southerly direction eventually arriving in the large city of Nimes. Completely by accident, I arrived at this stunning deposit left by the Romans on French soil.

 

[franze]

It was getting late in the day, so I checked my map for campgrounds and saw that there were quite a few along the Mediterranean coast so I continued west for awhile on the autoroute and then south at Montpellier eventually arriving at a campground in Sete, on the coast.

THIS IS THE WAY TO GO, PLASTIC/PAD/BAG. IF IT'S RAINING, GET A ROOM!!!!

I was going with the camp-lite mode and as you can see, it was a plastic, bed roll, and bag campsite. Anything more would have been unnecessary considering the weather. After a great night’s sleep I woke up to a sunny morning and headed down a fairly deserted and peaceful highway along the ocean. The one moment worth mentioning was the fiberglass hardtop flying out of the back seat of some A-hole’s car as I was stopped on the shoulder to take a picture. The driver was a real ass as he stopped, turned around, and then double parked on the highway as he retrieved his road modified top. Had to believe it was karma working its way, once again.

I headed inland at the town of Beziers. I was trying to get to a town called Carcassonne which I was told had some incredible mid-evil architecture. In my hap-hazard navigation of the city, I came across this incredible, inner city hairpin. I hiked 10 minutes uphill to take these pictures. Does your town have a hairpin with a 12 step circular staircase on the inside radius?

AND THEN THERE'S THIS ONE..........CHECK OUT THE CURB, CAN'T YOU JUST HEAR IT!

I don’t know if I’ll ever come across a city street that warrants 4 pictures again!!! I made it to Carcassonne and, to be honest, never found the “the spot” and, since I’m a guy, never ASKED anyone where “the spot” was. I guess that means I’ll have to go back after I get the proper intell. From Carcassonne, I headed south on D118 through Limoux, Quillan, and Axat I headed into the Gorges de St. Georges. This is a MUST DO for anyone travelling in this area.

THIS IS A GOOD ILLUSTRATION OF WHY I SCRATCH MY HEAD WHEN PEOPLE GET ALL WOUND UP ON THE ALPS. SURE, THEY ARE GREAT BUT HOW ABOUT THIS!! THIS IS ONE OF MANY GORGES, FAIRLY OBSCURE AND I'D BET NOT ON ANY OF THE BIG TOUR COMPANIES ROUTES. FANTASTIC !!!!!!!!!! I JUST PICKED THIS ROUTE OFF THE MAP. THERE WERE THREE OR FOUR OTHER POSSIBILITIES AND THEY MIGHT HAVE EVEN BEEN BETTER. I'LL HAVE TO GO BACK SOME DAY.

From the Gorges de St. Georges, I headed north-west along N20 to the Col de Puymorens which led me into the small, tax-haven country seen at the front of the line in each winter Olympic opening ceremony, Andorra. The rain was falling hard as I rode from one end of the country to the other. A beautiful ride regardless of the weather.

Julia de Loria, Andorra

 

[franze]

More Andorra

GREAT MYSTERIES OF LIFE..........THE HAIR ON MY FACE IS 20 YEARS YOUNGER THAN THE HAIR ON MY HEAD.......WHY IS IT TURNING GRAY BEFORE THE TOP????????

One thing to keep in mind, because of its tax free status, there can be a lot of tour buses on the road. It was near the border of Spain and Andorra that I came across an interesting find. Although it appears to be a solar collector, it is, in fact, Dr. Evil’s European Lair!!!

From the southern exit point of Andorra, I travelled west along N260 and at Alp I took N152 east. At the moment, I believe this is my favorite section of road, EVER! Now, part of this highest of high rankings could have been influenced by:
1. It quit raining on me
2. The sun came out
3. There was no traffic
But, regardless of these influences, this is another MUST RIDE for anyone in the area. There is a tunnel before you reach this turn-off which funnels most of the auto traffic away from the up, along, over, and down riding you will do on this route: absolutely fantastic roads and scenery. My pictures don’t do the road justice.

I GOT THESE GLASSES AND THREE PAIRS OF SPIDER-MAN UNDERWEAR AT THE NEVER LAND RANCH GIFT SHOP FOR $5.00!!!!!!!

I continued eastward onto N260 and then on a scenic route towards Banyoles and in darkness, tired, wet, but happy and satisfied I made it to the Spanish seaside town of L’Escala, and checked into the same hotel where I had stayed with my family the year before. I walked into town from my room and enjoyed tapas and a pitcher of sangria before calling it a night. The next morning was brilliant and I headed towards Cadaques, the seaside home of one of my favorite artists, Salvadore Dali.

VIEW FROM THE HOTEL. I LOVED THIS TOWN. ENDED UP STAYING IN THIS SAME HOTEL THREE TIMES THE THREE YEARS I LIVED IN EUROPE. I LOVE SPAIN!!!!!

The road to Cadaques was great. The sun was out, the traffic was not.

I found Dali’s home but it turned out that you needed a reservation to take the tour as the hour approached when house opened for tours, I realized that part of taking the tour required males to have their hair in dread locks and to be wearing pajamas. Once again, I made a note to return and be properly attired.

ANOTHER THING I NEVER DID

Dali's home in Cadaques.

THE YELLOW BOAT IS THE RE-FURBED BOAT HE USED TO EXPLORE THE COAST. THIS HOME IS WHERE HE WENT TO FIND HIS MOJO!!! I REALLY REGRET NOT WAITING AROUND FOR THE TOUR.........BUT YOU KNOW HOW IT IS WHEN THE ROADS ARE DRY

 

[franze]

I reluctantly left Cadaques and continued north along the coast roads back into France. As noon approached, I stopped for a swim in the Mediterranean.

I was in knee deep water when a basketball sized octopus swam by. In my lousy French/Spanish/MotoSpeak I alerted some nearby bathers. Soon there was a small crowd watching the creature move gracefully through the water. And then, to my surprise, a grandma aged Spanish woman reached down with her bare hand and lifted it out of the water!!! The tentacles wrapped around her hand and arm and she eventually shrieked and then threw it into the water. That is true “Profiles in Courage”. I have many witnesses that can testify to the many stupid/crazy things I’ve done, but you couldn’t pay me to reach into the sea and yank out a basketball sized octopus. You just had to be there to appreciate that woman’s balls.

THE MORE I THINK ABOUT THIS, THE MORE IT BLOWS MY MIND. OK, WHO WOULD EVER REACH INTO THE OCEAN AND YANK A BASKETBALL SIZED OCTOPUS OUT OF THE WATER. I CONSIDER MYSELF A FAIRLY TOUGH GUY AND I WAS GIVING THAT CRITTER ABOUT A 5 FOOT BUFFER. OK, SO, JUST SUPPOSE YOU HAVE THE BALLS TO GRAB THIS SEA CREATURE.........NOW WHAT???? YOU RUN TO THE BEACH WHILE HE/SHE WRAPS ABOUT 25' LINEAR FEET OF SUCTION CUPS AROUND YOU. YOU GET TO YOUR TOWEL, PEEL THE CRITTER OFF AND THEN........WHAT???? CARRY IT BACK TO YOUR TINY "EURO SINK" AND THEN????? GET IT READY TO EAT???? CHOP OFF IT'S ARMS???? THROW AWAY THE INKY HEAD????? HOW THE HELL DO YOU CLEAN A WILD OCTOPUS???? THAT GRANDMA WAS AT THE TOP OF MY LIST OF PROFILES IN COURAGE. NOT WELL THOUGHT OUT, BUT STILL!!!!!

Somewhere over the French border I stopped for some food. This is what a French Cheeseburger looks like.

After lunch I realized that I needed to put southern France in my past so I got on the autoroutes A9 and then A75. The autoroutes are ok for awhile but after an hour or two, I’m checking the maps and low and behold, I saw a nice looking road out of Millau that led into the Gorges de Tam. The gorges that I’d been on have all been worthwhile so I headed towards Millau. The auto bridge that leads to Millau is incredible. I’m amazed that the French can build such beautiful bridges and such ugly cars.

road that follows the river through the Gorges du Tam was not disappointing. For you DaVinci Code aficionados, it’s worth noting that this was the stomping grounds of the Knights of Templar back in ‘the day.

THIS IS WHY YOU PAY ATTENTION. THIS IS THE SIDE OF THE ROAD AND THEN THERE'S A 100M DROP AND "SPLASH".

THERE WERE A FEW OF THESE MID-EVIL VILLAGES, STILL INHABITED. HARD CORE FOR SURE, NO MAJOR ROADS, NO STORES, NONE OF THE CRAP US "NEW WORLD" CONSUMERS NEED TO LIVE. I LIKED IT!!!!!!!!!!

HOW ABOUT THIS...........BARBECUE THIS SATURDAY, MY PLACE.........

Eventually, I made it to the town of Mende where I took N88 east towards Pradelles where I took N102 north. Anyone with a heavy wrist will enjoy the route between Pradelles and Le Puy-en-Velay. Great visibility, great road surface, top gear, all out. Go dog go!

I turned east at Le Puy-en-Velay, happy that I wasn’t arrested for excessive speed and decided that the best thing to do would be to find a room as the weather began to look like something darker than night was heading my way. I found a nice hotel in the small town of St. Julien-Chapteuil. In the spirit of honest reporting I must say, that the stereotype of the indifferent attitude of the French is well deserved. I must also add that their reputation as the world’s greatest chefs is truly well deserved as the man that opened the small garage so I could park my bike was also the hotel owner and chef. I ate in the hotel dining room that night and the meal of pork tenderloin, potatoes, and mixed vegetables was outstanding. I love the way the French can make a carrot look like a pinwheel and taste like cheese. Truly amazing.
When I parked my bike in the small garage, I couldn’t help but notice the twenty, high end road bicycles leaning against the walls. The clerk/garage guy/cook/owner told me they were the hotel guests’ bikes. The bikers were finishing their meal when I sat down to eat. There were about 20 in their party, mostly between 40 and 50, all in tremendous shape. The fitness of the average European puts us Americans to shame; something that we all can work on. The next morning as I loaded my bike, I watched the bikers wipe down and lube their bikes with the same care a pediatrician wipes down a new born. Gently, lovingly, and without any wasted movement. I was impressed!! I made a note to wipe down my new Trek road bike when I got home!!! Despite the ominous rain clouds, the bikers headed off in various directions. Later that morning, in driving rain, when I thought I was the only moron out on the roads, I came across an old guy, pedaling up a steep hill, no rain gear, miles from town, and we waved at each other. I instantly felt ashamed for feeling that the rain was inconveniencing ME! After a few hours of rain, the sun came out, and after a short spell of rural, scenic, and unmarked roads in downtown Lyon, I finally reached my home near Nyon, Switzerland. A great ride and one that I would love to do again.

IF YOU'VE READ MY REPORTS, YOU KNOW THEY ALWAYS END HERE. NYON, SWITZERLAND, ON THE SHORES OF LAC LEMAN.

 

[franze]

Intermission

 

[rocketman]

Wow, the offices in that tower in the center must get mighty hot, I'd hate to have to work in that building! (yes, I do know what it is!)

and funny how you kept running into that same guy on the red bike!

Love the photos, esp the old buildings and little mountain towns, its one of the things that I enjoyed most about living there. When I was a kid (I was born in Europe) we often took trips into the mountains as a family with my Mom holding on for dear life as my father drove those windy little roads in our Citroen with a certain abandon! I on the other hand thoroughly enjoyed it! "Go, Dad, Go!". Even at 5 I loved to stick my head out the window and feel the cold crisp air on my face (this was WAY before seat belts!), I guess even then I was destined to be a rider! Thanks for the memories..

RM

 

[lineman126]

Incredible pics and story. I especially like the older woman and the Octopus. Thanks for sharing.

 

[franze]

thanks for the comments

RM> Childhood memories

My 12 year old son should always remember going with Dad on the RT to Normandy and Bastogne.

My 11 year old son should always remember going camping with Dad on the RT to Italy and Croatia

My 6 year old daughter will always remember taking the train with Dad to Heidiland ( Maienfeld, Swizerland)


Lineman> I still shake my head imagining grabbing on to a boneless cartlidge "head" covered in aqua slime and then having 8 muscular slimy arms WITH SUCTION CUPS wrap around your forearms!!!! Nothing on Terra Firma could possibly hint at what that would feel like.

Appreciate your comments.

End of Intermission. Roll the second feature

 

[Threeteas]

Pont D'Arc, climbed over that and kayaked naked under it. That was at a time I could climb and my being naked wasn't an offense to humanity's sensibilities.

Love that whole Ardeche area, must see if I can get there on a ride, now I'll be UK side of the water.

Nice report.

 

[franze]

Passed Out

It was one of those weekends where everything lines up. My son was playing in a hockey tournament in Ambri, Switzerland and my wife needed to stay behind with my other two kids at our home near Geneva. The weather was going to be beautiful and my son was obliged to travel to and from the game on the team bus. This allowed me to plan a route to and from the small mountain town hosting the event. My goal was to ride as many passes as I could and still be there for all his games.
I left Grens, the small town where we live above Nyon, in darkness on the morning of Saturday, Sept 1 2007. The evening before as I returned home from filling my tank and adjusting the tire pressure, the ABS lights on my 1999 R1100RT blinked off and on. I called my BMW contact, Jurg Ambuhl at Chuard’s BMW in Geneva and he told me it might be a low battery, or a faulty sensor, or a problem with the ABS. He said that regardless of what was causing the warning lights to blink, I would still have my brakes, but maybe not ABS, and that I could go on my trip, but, if the lights stayed on, I’d need to bring the bike in the next week. Sort of assuring to hear his analysis, but since I planned on traveling some of the most remote roads in Switzerland and am not a gifted mechanic, I was somewhat worried. I was relieved when the ABS lights stopped blinking after about the first quarter mile the next morning.
I don’t really enjoy riding the autoroute but sometimes it makes sense to get to “the good stuff” quickly. This was the case today as my first pass was about two hours away. In the early morning hours I motored up Route 1 passing through Lausanne, Montreux ( this is where Deep Purple was inspired to write “Smoke on the Water”) Martigny, Sion, and finally Brig where I turned up into the mountains on route 9. The winding and sparsely travelled road takes you through Simplonpass, into Italy and through a town called Domodossola

Riding in the clouds on Simplonpass.

There, I turned onto route 327 and headed back into Switzerland and towards Locarno on the shore of Lake Maggiorre.

I went up the valley through Bellizona on Route 2 and finally reached my campground in Faido, which was about 6 km from the hockey rink in Ambri. I pitched my tent and then made my way to the rink to watch my son’s first game around noon.


Faido campground

My son’s team, Geneve-Servette, played well on the opening day, winning two matches and tying the home team which put them in the first seed position of their group at the end of the first day.

This is my son #21 in the dark jersey getting ready to lift the stick and drop the shoulder on the attacker....

That night I had a satisfying camp dinner of pasta, crab, parmesan cheese, prosciutto, butter, herbs, and fresh basil I picked from my garden that morning. A nice white wine rounded out the meal.


THIS IS WHERE I FINALLY LEARNED TO APPRECIATE OPERA. I PICKED UP AN ITALIAN STATION ON MY SHORTWAVE AND IT REALLY CLICKED WITH ME AS I COOKED THE PASTA. CHECK OUT THE SOLID GRANITE SLAB PICNIC TABLES. BIG GRANITE MINES NEARBY. THESE MUST HAVE BEEN THE REJECTS!!!

The next morning, I brewed up some coffee and had my camp packed up and loaded by 8:30 am. I got to the rink only to find out my son’s first game wasn’t until 11:30. I wasn’t about to waste my morning so I set out to climb the Passo de Novena as it’s known from the Italian speaking eastern side, or Nufenpass as it’s known from the German speaking western side. Leaving autoroute 2 at Airolo the road takes you through the beautiful Val Bedretto before it begins the classic hairpin climbs that are typical of the Swiss passes. It took about 30 minutes for me to reach the summit and I didn’t think I’d have enough time to cross the backside and still make it in time for my son’s game, so I walked around the top for a few minutes and took some pictures before heading back down the eastern side.

Summit pit stop at Passeo de Novena MANY OF THE PASSES IN THIS AREA HAVE AN ITALIAN NAME ON ONE SIDE AND A GERMAN NAME DOWN THE OTHER.

Glacier view from summit of Passeo de Novena

Getting jiggy on Swiss road candy, eastern slope of Passeo de Novena

Well, as fate would have it, my son’s team won their 11:30 game and was now in the final against the home team at 4:00. This gave me a couple hours to ride so I decided to head back up the Passeo de Novena and then down the western side, or Nufenpass. The road “T’s” on route 19 at Ulrichen. I turned right, or north, east and headed back over the mountains via Furkapass. I ended up back on route 2 and then headed back towards Ambri via Passeo del San Gottardo. While I was taking a map and beverage break, a crew of about 30 riders, all on Nortons left the summit restaurant, a pleasant noise to say the least.

Map and sustenance break at summit of Passeo Del San Gottardo

 

[franze]

Passed Out

More pictures from the summit of Passeo Del San Gottardo

SEE THAT ?? IN THE MIDDLE OF THE LAKE...............

??????????????????????????????????????????????????????

The final match of the tourney had the home team winning 1-0. It was the only goal allowed by Geneve-Servette the entire weekend. After congratulating my son, his teammates and coaches, I headed north back up and over the Passeo del San Gottardo. At Wassen, I turned west onto route 11 to take the Sustenpass towards Interlaaken.

North side of Passeo del San Gottardo. THIS SHOWS THE 3-SIDED TUNNELS TYPICAL OF THE SWISS ALPS PASSES. BEATS PLOWING

Western side of Sustenpass THIS IS ONE OF MY FAVORITE PASSES AS YOU GET THE TECHNICAL RIDING AND THE NICE FOREST SMELLS. MANY OF THE OTHER PASSES ARE ABOVE THE TREE LINE AND PRETTY SPARSE OF PLANTLIFE

Daylight was leaving quickly as I rode the south shores of the two lakes that meet at Interlaaken

I rode my final pass of the day, Jaunpass between Reidenbach and Bulle in darkness. I took the autoroute home from Bulle arriving at 10:15 pm. In two days I rode 8 passes and watched 5 hockey games, I had no trouble falling asleep that night as I truly was, ÔÇ£passed outÔÇØ.

MY LAST DAY OF RIDING IN EUROPE WAS MY BEST. IN JUNE OF 2008 I RODE 10 MAJOR PASSES IN ONE DAY. FANTASTIC

http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=26632

 

[Paul_F]

I am very envious of your European rides. I have ridden in the both the Pyrenees and the French Alps, but it was a very long time ago, and not with the type of steed that you had beneath you. Thank you for sharing your pics.

 

[statdawg]

Paul, Great report and thanks for the memories. I spent alot of time along the French-Spanish border and made a few trips to Andorra, the Gorges, including a jaunt or two west of Barcelona.

I like the Dali report and forwarded this report to Miquel since he is a fan. He was in Florida and had to check out a St Petersburg exhibit of Dali. Enjoy your memories of Spain.

BTW in that part of France - Spain they speak Catalan.

 

[franze]

Pont D'Arc, climbed over that and kayaked naked under it. That was at a time I could climb and my being naked wasn't an offense to humanity's sensibilities.

Love that whole Ardeche area, must see if I can get there on a ride, now I'll be UK side of the water.

Nice report.

Steve,

Thanks. You could draw a line from Lyon to Biarritz. Anything to the south and west of that line would be great riding. Please stay in touch

Paul

 

[franze]

I am very envious of your European rides. I have ridden in the both the Pyrenees and the French Alps, but it was a very long time ago, and not with the type of steed that you had beneath you. Thank you for sharing your pics.

Paul F.

Thanks for your comments. I hope to return someday and do it again. Love to spend more time in Spain, down around where Leone filmed the Spaghetti Westerns near Almeria. I have a GSA now but I wouldn't hesitate to get another RT.

Paul F.

 

[franze]

Paul, Great report and thanks for the memories. I spent alot of time along the French-Spanish border and made a few trips to Andorra, the Gorges, including a jaunt or two west of Barcelona.

I like the Dali report and forwarded this report to Miquel since he is a fan. He was in Florida and had to check out a St Petersburg exhibit of Dali. Enjoy your memories of Spain.

BTW in that part of France - Spain they speak Catalan.

Hi Dawg!!

I hope Miquel stops by, my trip to Thailand is kinda in the middle of his time here but maybe we can work it out. I brought home a monster paella pan AND the circular gas grill to heat it properly and neither one has been used yet. Regarding the Dali home, no doubt there's something in the water as I found myself doing surreal things. Once again I proved that idle hands are the devils playthings.

Paul

 

[Rinty]

Pyrenees

I needed this report, on a blizzardy night, and another Flames loss....

 

[terham]

Great report Paul, I guess I missed the initial showing but am glad to have caught it in reruns.

The 2nd half of your report sounds vaguely familiar. Where have I seen that before??... (Congrats on being a published in ON - I guess they have a long lead time.)

 

[globalrider]

This is the life!

Terrific pics...pics that only make you homesick even if you were born here. I don't know how I missed this thread.

Less than three months to go to this years tour and less than three years to go to early retirement and longer riding seasons there.

 

[franze]

Terrance and Alex and whoever bumped this ride report...........

thanks for your comments, they are appreciated. It seems like a long time ago to me.....I have a few days next week to get "lost"...... Desert flowers or Bigfoot scat????........................