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Engine dies suddenly
- Thread starter dennypink
- Start date
I had same problem on 2007 R1200RT with 19,000 miles at half tank or less. Replaced FPC, checked vacuum, ruled out fault codes, and it still occurred. Through a suggestion from another MOA member it ended up being "gunk" like cat hair in the tank, clogging the fuel sock on in-tank fuel filter.
Siphoned out all gas, pulled pump out, blew it clean with compressed air, removed and rinsed out tank with isopropyl alcohol, and put it back together. That worked!
My 2007 RT has done exactly the same thing, perhaps 3-5 times over the course of 2-3 years. It happens mostly when reducing speed. It has happened a few times after pulling the clutch and coasting to a stop light. It comes back to life after hitting the starter. I rode it from CA to AZ and back last year and the problem never showed up. Go figure.
Yep, same symptoms I have, hopefully had. I went ahead and bought/installed a new Fuel Pump Controller, part #16-14-8-523-262, the same day my BurnsMoto cable arrived. When I started the bike with the new controller, the left headlight burned out! Thorough job of scrapping my hands replacing that thing. Need E.T. phone home like fingers.
DP
mikegalbicka
Back in the saddle again
Hate to be the bearer of bad news but the right side is even worse.
akbeemer
SURVIVOR
I regularly service a friend's 07 RT. He's gone through a handful of headlight bulbs in the six years I've been working on his bike and has always had another friend replace them. This other fella is quite thin and has the hands and arms to match. Last week we decided to replace all three bulbs while I had the fairing off the bike for service. Made it a bit easier to get to the bulbs because it allowed him to get a better angle to reach in, but it is still a job done by feel and requires a great deal of patience.
Last year at the Nakusp rally Annie, a friend and I came upon a rider who was trying to install a bulb in his RT. He and another guy had evidently both given it their best shot with no luck. Our friend and Annie both offered their help. I had Annie put a little tape on the tips of two fingers with the sticky side out; a trick I learned while changing the bulbs in my FJR. Changing the FJR bulbs is also challenging although not so bad as the RT. Several times Annie declared success only to have to recant and acknowledge ignominious failure. When she gave up I decided to try. Within 30 seconds the bulb was fully installed. To be honest, Annie's final effort had resulted in the bulb resting properly oriented and nearly, but not fully, seated (she probably couldn't tell because of the tape on her fingers
). I also was lucky in getting both the bale and connector in place on the first try. Better lucky than skilled sometimes.
Last year at the Nakusp rally Annie, a friend and I came upon a rider who was trying to install a bulb in his RT. He and another guy had evidently both given it their best shot with no luck. Our friend and Annie both offered their help. I had Annie put a little tape on the tips of two fingers with the sticky side out; a trick I learned while changing the bulbs in my FJR. Changing the FJR bulbs is also challenging although not so bad as the RT. Several times Annie declared success only to have to recant and acknowledge ignominious failure. When she gave up I decided to try. Within 30 seconds the bulb was fully installed. To be honest, Annie's final effort had resulted in the bulb resting properly oriented and nearly, but not fully, seated (she probably couldn't tell because of the tape on her fingers
). I also was lucky in getting both the bale and connector in place on the first try. Better lucky than skilled sometimes.
mikegalbicka
Back in the saddle again
So true. There have been many tips posted about this problem but I find the easiest way for me is just remove the headlight assembly which I can get off and back on in 30 minutes after doing it a few times. No scratches required and it gives me a chance to do a yearly thorough cleaning in those areas.
Bobmws
Curmudgeon At Large
Back in the old days we didn't have the complication of excessive computer control problems and electronic glitches!
anglojaxon
AATW!
I had the same issue with an 08 R12RT.
My dealer said;
Use Techtron.
My clutch/shift technique.
"Weird, never heard of this issue."
No codes.
Another key on your keyring interfering.
All of which simply angered me to some degree. Why did they say that? Shots in the dark. They couldn't reproduce it and their digging around is going to cost you labor and parts. It may sound like a total blowoff but I'm sure they aren't trying to BS you.
I tried all the suggestions since other people had the same issue. It didn't happen often, but often enough where I no longer had confidence in the bike. Especially when the engine dies merging into traffic or going 60mph. It usually happened when my wife was on the bike and that alone caused me much grief hearing her go nuts over it.
I still liked the bike but it was too much to deal with and quite dangerous in my opinion. It always started right back up even at speed. I suspect their was an electrical issue. Some have claimed far later, after I sold the bike, the kickstand switch could be a culprit. I simply didn't have the time and financial resources to hunt gremlins all the time.
Buying a bypass shouldn't be the final solution, but it is a good one for other issues so as not to strand you.
It's great to have cool features when they work. It's a horrible nightmare when the don't. Switches, sensors built by third parties can break, get moisture in them etc. Torubleshoot by substitution works if your have spares and a budget to buy them.
I regret selling the bike. I wish I could have solved it myself. There is some level of embarrassment over the fact. At that time it just didn't work out.
Lessons learned and general advice. Mileage varies.
My dealer said;
Use Techtron.
My clutch/shift technique.
"Weird, never heard of this issue."
No codes.
Another key on your keyring interfering.
All of which simply angered me to some degree. Why did they say that? Shots in the dark. They couldn't reproduce it and their digging around is going to cost you labor and parts. It may sound like a total blowoff but I'm sure they aren't trying to BS you.
I tried all the suggestions since other people had the same issue. It didn't happen often, but often enough where I no longer had confidence in the bike. Especially when the engine dies merging into traffic or going 60mph. It usually happened when my wife was on the bike and that alone caused me much grief hearing her go nuts over it.
I still liked the bike but it was too much to deal with and quite dangerous in my opinion. It always started right back up even at speed. I suspect their was an electrical issue. Some have claimed far later, after I sold the bike, the kickstand switch could be a culprit. I simply didn't have the time and financial resources to hunt gremlins all the time.
Buying a bypass shouldn't be the final solution, but it is a good one for other issues so as not to strand you.
It's great to have cool features when they work. It's a horrible nightmare when the don't. Switches, sensors built by third parties can break, get moisture in them etc. Torubleshoot by substitution works if your have spares and a budget to buy them.
I regret selling the bike. I wish I could have solved it myself. There is some level of embarrassment over the fact. At that time it just didn't work out.
Lessons learned and general advice. Mileage varies.
- Don't assume it's the fault of BMW exclusively. Kicking dirt and bad-mouthing dealers and brands isn't going to change anything unless you can prove gross negligence. The experience may be yours alone and how you choose to deal with it.
- The dealer has to be able to reproduce it or they'll take shots in the dark.
- Use a logical approach to solving it. Frustration isn't a helpful tool.
- Don't assume someone else's issue on a forum is directly related to your issue.
- Develop troubleshooting techniques (fuel, air ignition, etc.)
- Don't assume the major components first, sometimes the simple small stuff is the problem.
- Electrical Parts that "look okay" can not be okay. Use a multimeter.
- If you don't have the technical skill or reach your limits, get help.
- It's really helpful to have people that ride the same bike you ride or the same platform. You share information.
- Forums can be a great or terrible source of information. Use discretion.
Nothing worse in that situation as you lose all trust and credibility from that day forward. Hard to rebuild that afterwards.
My 2011 R1200GS was doing the same thing. I reset the adaptations using my GS-911 and it solved the problem.
deilenberger
A bozo on the bus
One of the best lists of suggestions for dealing with this sort of bike problem, or almost any bike problem I've seen. In particular the last item. 'Nuff said.
FOLLOW UP: After installing the new Fuel Pump Controller the engine died one time. Again no codes. I shared my frustration with service guy Jim at Moto Italia, formerly Beemers and More. He suggested I try some BG-44K fuel treatment; put in half a can, fill the tank, and ring it's neck! (ride it like I stole it) Bounced off the rev limiter several times. Filled the tank again, dumped in the other half of the treatment, and rode it like I stole it. About 400 miles total. THE ENGINE HAS NEVER RUN BETTER!! For anyone having these symptoms, try this, it might be all it takes.
DP
mikegalbicka
Back in the saddle again
That was one of your earlier suggestions. Too bad you didn't try it then. Glad you got it fixed finally.
Well, Well, I guess my optimism was short lived. Yesterday rolling to a stop sign, clutch pulled in, engine died. Popped the clutch, started right back up, rode another 120 miles, no problems. Frustrating!
For you throttle body guys, would a faulty "Idle Control Device" 13-54-7-672-966; or "Throttle Valve Switch" (possibly known as the Throttle Position Sensor) 13-54-7-696-412, cause this very intermittent problem?
Thanks! DP
AntonLargiader
Well-known member
With a fuel pressure gauge you can rule out a pump issue. Just tap into the pressure line from the tank and see if the pressure drops out when you experience a stall. Most likely it will not.
I did that to diagnose a stalling F800GS last year. In that case it was a fuel pressure problem, but the symptoms were a bit complicated. I wrote about it here.
I did that to diagnose a stalling F800GS last year. In that case it was a fuel pressure problem, but the symptoms were a bit complicated. I wrote about it here.
ANDYVH
New member
I'm surprised no one has mentioned cleaning the throttle body plates. My 94 R1100RS would do that. Come to a stop and suddenly die. Started right up again and idled just fine, ran fine. Then, randomly, would quit again on decel with the clutch out.
Friend of mine is a diesel mechanic. He told me to clean the throttle body plates with a long swab and denatured alcohol. Hmm,...went to it, pulled the air intake tubes back, opened the throttle wide open, and wiped down the grimy/gummy residue on the throttle plates and in the throttle bores. Never had the stalling again since. I first did that at 50,000 miles on my RS. Now at 190,000 I have never had it happen again. I clean them once a year as PM, or when I clean the air filter.
I think what happens, is the grime/gum buildup on the edge of the throttle plates can "seal" the throttle shut momentarily during high vacuum when the bike is on decel with the clutch out. The engine is briefly starved of air and dies. Quite often when we restart a bike after a sudden die, a habit is to slightly open the throttle. Well, when you do that of course the engine can breathe more air on starting. BBbbrrrmmm, it fires!
Friend of mine is a diesel mechanic. He told me to clean the throttle body plates with a long swab and denatured alcohol. Hmm,...went to it, pulled the air intake tubes back, opened the throttle wide open, and wiped down the grimy/gummy residue on the throttle plates and in the throttle bores. Never had the stalling again since. I first did that at 50,000 miles on my RS. Now at 190,000 I have never had it happen again. I clean them once a year as PM, or when I clean the air filter.
I think what happens, is the grime/gum buildup on the edge of the throttle plates can "seal" the throttle shut momentarily during high vacuum when the bike is on decel with the clutch out. The engine is briefly starved of air and dies. Quite often when we restart a bike after a sudden die, a habit is to slightly open the throttle. Well, when you do that of course the engine can breathe more air on starting. BBbbrrrmmm, it fires!
