trevorwatson
New member
Has anyone installed Dynatek Dyna III Electronic Ignition Systems D35-1 on their bike. I am thinking of installing it on my 1975 R90/6 but would like to hear some input and or Thoughts from someone who has it. Thanks.
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Dynatek Dyna III Electronic Ignition Systems
- Thread starter trevorwatson
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- dyna iii
I've done it on my R100/7. I like the results. The positive side is that you can adjust each cylinder to fire independently which creates a smoother running engine. It gets rid of the double image that is associated with worn advance units...can help somewhat with stretched timing chains. The down side is that it uses the stock advance unit which can be troublesome when removing that 10mm nut at the tip of the camshaft. But you set the unit up once, and you're basically done.
It's a little fiddly setting up, but taking your time and understanding what you're doing, it works well. Keep all of the old points parts just in case you need to switch back. Being an electronic part, it can fail. I had mine go out on my after 10-12 years. I'm on my second one now.
I'm glad I made the switch.
It's a little fiddly setting up, but taking your time and understanding what you're doing, it works well. Keep all of the old points parts just in case you need to switch back. Being an electronic part, it can fail. I had mine go out on my after 10-12 years. I'm on my second one now.
I'm glad I made the switch.
m_stock10506
Well-known member
I have a Dyna-III installed on my '74 R60/6 for about 12 years now. It's been completely reliable all this time; never a problem starting first try. I didn't personally install it; had my then local BMW shop do it.
trevorwatson
New member
Do you notice any difference in engine performance aside the ignition?
2 airheads using Dyna
The 75 R90/6 motor in my sidecar has had a Dyna in operation for 7 years now. I have one in operation in a dual plugged 1977 R100RS that was working fine when I got the bike 5 years ago and is working now. So far, no problems. Far from any problems. As mentioned, the cylinders can be tuned independently to fire a degree -/+ by moving one magnet just a bit. Locking the magnets into the retainer effectively ensures that your bike will continue to run at or near factory optimum ignition specifications - so long as all the other parts remain in good repair like the ground plane, run-out on the cam itself (which produces the double image) or the advance unit...and other factors involving wear like the cam chain itself. Well, you all know that by now. You get easier starting, and easy standard installation adjustments can smooth out cam induced misfire and often the result is better fuel economy, better power or both and a cooler running engine too. There are several electronic ignitions including BMW's own from 80 on. Much better than points. Cheaper to own in the long run and better on your engine. Follow the installation notes. The success of your installation is in the details...
as always.
Der gl??ckliche Mechaniker mit den singenden Schraubenschl??ssel
The 75 R90/6 motor in my sidecar has had a Dyna in operation for 7 years now. I have one in operation in a dual plugged 1977 R100RS that was working fine when I got the bike 5 years ago and is working now. So far, no problems. Far from any problems. As mentioned, the cylinders can be tuned independently to fire a degree -/+ by moving one magnet just a bit. Locking the magnets into the retainer effectively ensures that your bike will continue to run at or near factory optimum ignition specifications - so long as all the other parts remain in good repair like the ground plane, run-out on the cam itself (which produces the double image) or the advance unit...and other factors involving wear like the cam chain itself. Well, you all know that by now. You get easier starting, and easy standard installation adjustments can smooth out cam induced misfire and often the result is better fuel economy, better power or both and a cooler running engine too. There are several electronic ignitions including BMW's own from 80 on. Much better than points. Cheaper to own in the long run and better on your engine. Follow the installation notes. The success of your installation is in the details...
as always.
Der gl??ckliche Mechaniker mit den singenden Schraubenschl??ssel
amiles
New member
I've had one in use since 2000 & have no complaints. I did mount the "Box" so that it was on the right front frame down tube with the idea that it would be a bit away from engine heat and out in the breeze to dissipate any heat that it might create for itself.
Last year I installed an EnDuraLast replacement alternator. It may be my imagination running away with me but, the engine seems to have a bit more oomph, and I suspect that it is due to electronic ignitions such as the Dyna III reportedly thriving on getting a good strong voltage & thus a good strong spark. The old /6 alternator did not put out the power on as broad an RPM range as the new one, pretty much nothing below 3,000 rpm.
Last year I installed an EnDuraLast replacement alternator. It may be my imagination running away with me but, the engine seems to have a bit more oomph, and I suspect that it is due to electronic ignitions such as the Dyna III reportedly thriving on getting a good strong voltage & thus a good strong spark. The old /6 alternator did not put out the power on as broad an RPM range as the new one, pretty much nothing below 3,000 rpm.
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Just for clarification...there's only one magnet, which is in the donut that is fastened to the central shaft of the advance unit. What you're adjusting are the pick-up coils. It's basically a Hall effect sensor set up. When the magnet/steel piece in the donut comes into vicinity of one sensor, it creates an electrical current in the sensor which is used to operate the system.
...and by adjusting one sensor or the other during set up both coils can be made to fire together - and, the double dot in the timing window will go away.
1074
Active member
Dyna III
I've used one or two on my bikes, but only because they came that way. I prefer the Boyer ignition. I've used Boyer ignitions on several bikes since 1976 with no problems.
What I like about the Boyer is that it is totally electronic, with no moving parts! It is truely a set and forget unit, unlike the Dyna which uses the original advance unit. The springs wear out, you have to go through the hassle of adjusting one of the pick-ups, and you have to torque the set screws just right! Too tight and the lobe sleeve will bind. Too loose and the screws can back out, leaving you with no timing at all.
Just my opinion.
I've used one or two on my bikes, but only because they came that way. I prefer the Boyer ignition. I've used Boyer ignitions on several bikes since 1976 with no problems.
What I like about the Boyer is that it is totally electronic, with no moving parts! It is truely a set and forget unit, unlike the Dyna which uses the original advance unit. The springs wear out, you have to go through the hassle of adjusting one of the pick-ups, and you have to torque the set screws just right! Too tight and the lobe sleeve will bind. Too loose and the screws can back out, leaving you with no timing at all.
Just my opinion.
jad01
New member
I recently (about a year or so back...) installed a Boyer on mine and really like it as well. I've also used the Dyna III in the past (no complaints), but so far, I too prefer the inherent simplicity of the Boyer. In my particular case, my mechanical advance was shot, so buying the Boyer was also cheaper than buying a Dyna III plus the advance unit...
J
James.A
Guest
Everyone is of a different preference. Personally, I have removed the Dyna and re-fitted the points on more than one bike I've owned.
amplifier
Does the amplifier actually increase the strength of the spark, just cut the voltage going through the points or both?
What advantages do you see over just the conventional points set up?
Does the amplifier actually increase the strength of the spark, just cut the voltage going through the points or both?
What advantages do you see over just the conventional points set up?
I'm no electrical expert, but I'm having trouble seeing how a points amplifier will make a stronger spark. It certainly does help extend the life of the points, by reducing the voltage across them. But the points are nothing more than a switch which allows current to run to the coils to saturate them. When the points open, the fields collapse and the huge voltage is sent to the plugs. I don't see where the coils care what's coming to them, either through the amplifier or not. How does the amplifier modify the voltage to the coils? Does it somehow let the voltage get their faster? Does it allow the saturation to last longer? I don't see that these sorts of things are happening, which would likely deepen the saturation, and thus increase the spark voltage. Just scratching my head...hmmm...
J
James.A
Guest
Purely Speculation
If the amplifier uses the points only as a signal source, much like a Hall Sensor, is it possible that dwell time is more consistent and precise? If so, would this improve the density of the spark delivered?
I would think then the spark would be more consistent or uniforum...not a "better" or hotter spark. There's only a nominal 12v going to the coils and when you couple that with dwell or saturation time, that's what gives the type of spark. More saturation, potentially a hotter spark within the capabilities of the coil make up. However, with the length of dwell or saturation our bikes have, having more saturation doesn't necessarily make things better. It might for a maginal ignition system...and with our bikes as old as they are and the amount of TLC the ignition systems get, maybe we need everything going for us!
The coils are in series and always fire at the same time!
