Dyna III install on R90/6

[pburke]

I just got the Dyna III electronic ignition kit for my '75 R90/6. I'm not impressed w/ the install instructions. Didn't see any real detailed Airhead instructions on line or you tube. Anyone got links or suggestions?
Where is the best place to install the module?

 

[stevenrankin]

Lol

Oh I am sorry man, you have caught me at a point where a month ago I ditched my long time Dyna system and installed the much better Wedgetail system. Far better for advance control and super easy to install.

OKAY, I am not rubbing sand or ridiculing your choice. The Dyna on my bike held up for a long trouble free and yea! not damned points to plague me period of time.

I had my module mounted to the main frame cross bar in front about where the R90/6 single horn would mount. On my bike a 78RS, this was about the same place as the oil cooler I took off was mounted. I don't know as I never felt the unit while in operation how much heat they generate or exactly how much cooling air they need but they do need to be out were there is airflow.

Hope this helps, good luck. Enjoy the ride. St.

 

[20774]

Welcome to the forum! I've been running a Dyna III on my /7 for years. Somewhere I have the instructions that came with it. Pretty much going to be what you find on their website...did around a bit to find the download section:

https://www.dynaonline.com/dyna-iii-ignition-system-for-1970-1978-bmw-motorcycles-d35-1/

Should be somewhat straightforward as I recall. Of course, you will reuse the two-weight advance unit. Be sure that the contact between the back board of the unit is solid to the engine case...that's a ground path.

As for the module, my frame as a crossbar connecting the frame downtubes...a feature added to the /7 frames. If it were me on a /6, I'd pick one of the downtubes and mount it there...it will be in the wind flow which is a good thing.

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

dyna box mounting

Are all dyna's made with this clamp or is this a decent hack ?
meaning, the band clamp; cut & drilled & screwed to the Dyna housing , clamps around frame tube. simple.



Burk- re where to mount ? anywhere it fits is usually perfect. keep it simple or expect to catch flak in these parts.

I've seen them exposed on down tubes (in plain view for simple folk proud of that dyna I guess). ugly imo



PLenyt of spots under the tank , but assure no interference with currently removed parts / tank ect.
Dont overlook that the tank really hugs the frame , starting just aft of the master cyl.

I 'm putting a similar size up boyer near front , tucked in w/ rearranged relays, just under & behind the master cyl. probably.
not final build in pix. Maybe I'll simply glue controller to a band clamp, but also wrapping the frame in silicone sheet cos that clamp scratching my new paint just grates on me.

I'll shorten the boyer's BRN ground (dyna's BLK) to secure eyelet between coil bracket and frame, using the bracket's screw.
Clean frame to bare metal under the ring.

Boyer's BLK & GRN wires ( equal to dyna's RED & WHT ), cut to length for purtyness, will be attached to the coil's spade lugs.
These wires establish the circuit through the coil . There a also 3" jumper completing that circuit , s/b already on bike, connects coils in series. + to -
This series connection is what "stacks" the two 6V coils into a 12V device.

Why dyna used RED for two wires on their box, I dunno but on my shelf rider, the reds are "ID'd" so to speak, having been grouped into two vinyl tubes .



The two pickup wires , boyer BK/WT & BK/YL , (dyna RED/WHT), to run down inside eng to stator plate, will get shrunktubed & fed through that grommet in the starter cover.

Note the mod on the grommet - adding the 4ga starter wire hogged up so much space in the via that its simply too ugly to cram more wires in the orignal space..

There is a longer grommet made for some later year bikes.

The simplest thing to do was notch the starter cover to accommodate the longer grommet. It was so simple that I felt driven to notch the metal cover ~2mm shorter than the extra space needed, and cut a matching groove on the grommet to seat around the metal , with wee rubber lip overhanging like most grommets.
To my defense, it was simple to groove the rubber with a dremel cut-off disc.

There are also plenty of spots to drill for a feed thru grommet but simply put, why ?

 

[20774]

There are a number of similar threads in the Similar Threads pane at the bottom of the screen. Should have additional ideas on mounting.

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

Where is the best place to install the module?

this pic is from under tank , looking forward , from behind coils.

Tank saddle hugs the top frame most of the length.
That orange box hangin down in the widening section is the Boyer brain.
Not a ton of room under there

Boyer mentions hanging their box between . behind the coils.
It is somewhat thinner than the Dyna finned case, similar/smaller that a short deck of cards

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

view overhead standing on the alternator ( undertank

there's a nice niche for ig'nition box jsut aft of master.
this pic is looking up from alternator.



normally the voltage regulator would block this view ( but not the niche) ,
This adjustable VR is hanging down on one screw for now to get a screw driver on it for tweaks later ,
I'm going to try a Li Fe battery.
I dont know why all the warnings / "not covered by warranty" notes on upgraded alternators not being lithium-friendly
( heck I though EVERYthing was more friendly on Lithium)

I would think the main problem using lithium is the charging voltage ...


so much LED on this bike, Im not going for bigger watts atm,

I have a LiPOFe battery on a Yama-scooter that has been starting great for 4 years already.
Those things are so compact & light , would be easy to carry a spare battery anyway!

 

[gtgt_bangbang]

theres a lot of pocket over the coils for iggy box

but then , where to pack the spare 38 for those moments you just cant ignore ?