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Dunlop or Michelin 2015 RTW

RS4's for the last 3 sets. Couldn't be happier with their longevity and stickiness in dry and wet conditions.
 
I'm also in the RS4 camp. Virtually all tires these days are pretty darn good for handling, but I think the Dunlops last a bit longer and their handling degrades less near the end of the tread life.

Also, counter to the 38/42 psi pressures that seems to be recommended by all manufacturers for most of their models my experience with the Dunlops on my RT is 38/38 makes me happier. The front end turns in a bit easier at that pressure and the ride from the stiff-carcass Dunlop rear is more comfortable without any degradation of grip or feel.
 
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Pilot Road 4GT's..... They do well and last as long as any other for me anyhow and they are cheap.
 
Pilot Road 4GT's..... They do well and last as long as any other for me anyhow and they are cheap.
On my RT, the pilot 4gt's were getting roughly 6500, maybe as much as 7K on the rear. 3 sets of dunlop RS4's have given me 9K and as much as 10K on the rear with no degradation of grip on wet roads. Hence the reason I switched. Now I can swap both tires at the same time, as the GTs and RS's fronts last about 9K sometimes 10K.
 
Thank you gentleman for the replies. On my 2014 RTW I had for 2 years and 36K miles the PR was the tire of choice. I will give the Dunlop tires a try additionally they are $170 less expensive.
The Dunlop tires will be fitted to a new to me 2015 RTW with 1,300 miles. I do not trust the PR 4 tires on the bike at almost 9 years old.
 
I've used a couple of iterations of Roadsmart tyres for several years, and don't want to use anything other
36/42 - 2016 RTW.
 
I'm also in the RS4 camp. Virtually all tires these days are pretty darn good for handling, but I think the Dunlops last a bit longer and their handling degrades less near the end of the tread life.

Also, counter to the 38/42 psi pressures that seems to be recommended by all manufacturer's for most of their models my experience with the Dunlops on my RT is 38/38 makes me happier. The front end turns in a bit easier at that pressure and the ride from the stiff-carcass Dunlop rear is more comfortable without any degradation of grip or feel.
Running 37/40 when not loaded for a trip/on a trip, but run 37/42 fully loaded. I also find the front turns in just a bit quicker [ or at least it feels like it does ]. Running 37 I don't get the cupping later in the tires life.
 
Regarding tire pressure on my 14 RTW, it was 38 / 44. Turn-in improved for me with 38 front, also a little extra pressure helps to protect the rims.
 
I also have been impressed with the RS4 and need to mount a new rear before the ride to Redmond. Has anyone been shopping for the best price? Every place seems to be around $255 for the rear.
 
Seller on amazon just had rs4's on sale in my size for the 11rt and 16rs for 356.00 total. Missed the sale waiting on my dealer to tell me they could or couldn't match that price.

He's told me to check with him first which I've done a few times. As long as I've asked him and he can't I don't get whacked with double install charges.

I don't see any sales on them presently anywhere
 
We still use the Dunlop RS3. Around $250 a pair. It's the official tire of the Cheap Motorcycle Rider group :)

It save us about $400 when we each buy a set. A set of RS4 on Amazon is around $450.
 
I install my own tires with a manual changer. The Dunlop RS3 are too stiff making it very difficult to install and remove, so much so I won't buy them again. I've read the Dunlop RS4 aren't difficult anyone that can confirm this? I did like the RS3... It also seems both Dunlop RS4 and Michelin Road 5 GT and 6 GT are price fixed, so all sellers are at the same price or very close.
 
I install my own tires with a manual changer. The Dunlop RS3 are too stiff making it very difficult to install and remove, so much so I won't buy them again. I've read the Dunlop RS4 aren't difficult anyone that can confirm this? I did like the RS3... It also seems both Dunlop RS4 and Michelin Road 5 GT and 6 GT are price fixed, so all sellers are at the same price or very close.
I mount my own tires. For my K1600, I have noticed no difference in mounting difficulty between RS3's and RS4's having identical load ratings. Tires rated for the K1600 are as stiff as motorbike tires get. The RS3/RS4's rear tires for the K1600 are the most challenging tires I've mounted on any bike, and within the K1600 community, others find them the most difficult brand to mount. The RS3/RS4 fronts are easy - as easy as I've found in mounting front or rears on most other bikes.

Seems a shame to shy away from nice riding tires simply because you have difficulty mounting them.

I've been using a NoMar Pro (which they no longer appear to sell). I chose it, primarily for the bead breaker, as I ride on BST carbon fiber rims, which I don't want to risk gouging. It doesn't much matter what manual tire changer you use, but the dismount/mount bar IMHO does makes a huge difference. Life got a whole lot easier for me when I switched to using a Mojolever instead of the NoMar bar. I still use the NoMar bar for dismounting/mounting the front, which has never given me any trouble. The NoMar unmount tip is plenty stout enough for dismounting the K1600 front and front/rear tires on any other bike I've changed tires for, and the tip is designed to break if you are doing anything stupid. However, the NoMar tip is nowhere near stout enough for most K1600 rear tires, even with the most optimal technique. The Mojolever unmount tip will break a rim if you don't know what you are doing long before the tip will break. For mounting, the NoMar bar needs to pull about a 4" section of the bead way beyond the lip of the rim which requires way more leverage for the last 1/3rd of the bead while working all the more to keep the rest of the bead in the drop center. With NoMar bar, I'd have to finish mounting the last 1/3rd with spoons. The MojoLever simply nudges the bead over the rim lip, which means much less force is required and less of the rest of the bead has to be the drop center. No spoons required. I don't use the Mojolever for the front, as it gets too close to the disc rotors - which is fine, as fronts have never given me trouble. With the Mojolever, I can now dismount and mount a K1600 rear RS3 or RS4 in about 5 minutes and don't even break a sweat. Perhaps that will be of help to you too.
 
I noticed the RS3 rear is over $100 less then the 4. I may try one for the ride out and back, it will be mostly straight road riding.

I didn't have any trouble mounting the RS4 on my No-Mar, maybe just got lucky.
 
I mount my own tires. For my K1600, I have noticed no difference in mounting difficulty between RS3's and RS4's having identical load ratings. Tires rated for the K1600 are as stiff as motorbike tires get. The RS3/RS4's rear tires for the K1600 are the most challenging tires I've mounted on any bike, and within the K1600 community, others find them the most difficult brand to mount. The RS3/RS4 fronts are easy - as easy as I've found in mounting front or rears on most other bikes.

Seems a shame to shy away from nice riding tires simply because you have difficulty mounting them.

I've been using a NoMar Pro (which they no longer appear to sell). I chose it, primarily for the bead breaker, as I ride on BST carbon fiber rims, which I don't want to risk gouging. It doesn't much matter what manual tire changer you use, but the dismount/mount bar IMHO does makes a huge difference. Life got a whole lot easier for me when I switched to using a Mojolever instead of the NoMar bar. I still use the NoMar bar for dismounting/mounting the front, which has never given me any trouble. The NoMar unmount tip is plenty stout enough for dismounting the K1600 front and front/rear tires on any other bike I've changed tires for, and the tip is designed to break if you are doing anything stupid. However, the NoMar tip is nowhere near stout enough for most K1600 rear tires, even with the most optimal technique. The Mojolever unmount tip will break a rim if you don't know what you are doing long before the tip will break. For mounting, the NoMar bar needs to pull about a 4" section of the bead way beyond the lip of the rim which requires way more leverage for the last 1/3rd of the bead while working all the more to keep the rest of the bead in the drop center. With NoMar bar, I'd have to finish mounting the last 1/3rd with spoons. The MojoLever simply nudges the bead over the rim lip, which means much less force is required and less of the rest of the bead has to be the drop center. No spoons required. I don't use the Mojolever for the front, as it gets too close to the disc rotors - which is fine, as fronts have never given me trouble. With the Mojolever, I can now dismount and mount a K1600 rear RS3 or RS4 in about 5 minutes and don't even break a sweat. Perhaps that will be of help to you too.
Thank you rhbike. I have an orginal NoMar changer with an upgraded bead breaker (they gave me at no charge) and like you the Mojolever (great tool). Living in the country I'm by myself, it is much easier changing tires when I have extra hands but that happens during a blue moon. I'm now 70 and that has a lot to do with it as well. A year or two ago I had a set of RS3 I mounted, it wasn't easy but I got them on but when it came to dismounting I gave up quickly and cut them off with a utility knife around the sidewall.

I did like the RS3 and for the price, a great buy compared to the Michelin tires I usually buy. The Michelin's go on easy for me, and I love the tire. I did get better mileage from the Dunlop. I was hoping the RS4 would be easier from what I read, thanks for your great write up and I agree its a shame they are too stiff for me to deal with.
 
I install my own tires with a manual changer. The Dunlop RS3 are too stiff making it very difficult to install and remove, so much so I won't buy them again. I've read the Dunlop RS4 aren't difficult anyone that can confirm this? I did like the RS3... It also seems both Dunlop RS4 and Michelin Road 5 GT and 6 GT are price fixed, so all sellers are at the same price or very close.
I used my Cycle Hill Tire changer for the RS4 recently on my 2010 R1200RT. They slipped on/off like butter. I spent more time getting the wheels on/off the bike that I did getting the tires ON/OFF.
 
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