Centech AP2 & AP130R Installation Question 2009 R1200RT

[flemmings27]

Joyce,
What Centech supplied me is NOT a protected type. It is not uncommon to get wrong answers on electronic parts and you may have been given wrong information. Or perhaps Centech has changed parts. You can look yours up on the various makers websites. Or post it here and I'll put up a spec link. Here is the link to the specs for mine.

Racer,

I'm not sure what you mean by looking up my part on the various makers' websites. I'm under the impression that Centech makes its own parts, although their description under ABOUT indicates that a small minority of their products are not made in US, so that's muddled. In any case, I've looked on their website for something like what you've posted and didn't see anything. The instructions for the fuse panel and wiring harness do not contain the type of details that your link's pdf does. I've done some google'ing to try to find such, but can't. Thus, the best I can do is post Centech's links for the 2 products.

http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap2.shtml
http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/panels/ap130.shtml

 

[racer7]

Joyce,
Centech is a small company that either makes their wiring harnesses and fuse panels or subs them out to a contracted manufacturer to execute their designs.
They DO NOT make their own relays- those are made by the millions by large industrial firms who make literally thousands of types that are PURCHASED through normal distribution channels by firms like Centech, car makers, etc etc.

It is the maker of the relay, not Centech, that is the authority on what it is. In my case and I suspect yours, the part is a well made Japanese part by one of the worlds largest makers of good quality relays- the same firm that is the principle supplier to Japanese auto manufacturers and sells many things in the US under its Panasonic brand (one of its many brands some of which do not come to the US). The part number for it is stamped on it and the relay is that little cube at the end of the wiring harness- the numbers on it can be decoded to identify exactly what it is. Find the numbers on it and it should be easy to identify but do not expect to see the makers name- usually it is absent or present only in an abbreviated form or logo. In fact, on mine, the M on it representing the maker (not the same M as in the part number) was dabbed over with a drop of red paint- that might have been done as part of a QC check of the finished harness by Centech.

Because relays are made in std types and many are physically the same and can interchange, there is no guarantee that Centech is using the same part each time though as a matter of manufacturing consistency, most firms would make few or no changes to something like that- they're cheap enough parts that the temptation to go with a cheaper chinese substitute and possibly encounter problems is minimal.

 

[deilenberger]

The wiring diagram says it comes from the ZFE and is labeled GEN+

Have to agree with .. the term "GEN+" on older vehicles was usually the control voltage that went back to the alternator to turn on the field coils from the external voltage regulator. In that case - I'm guessing it's a signal voltage and tapping off of it for a power source might not be such a good idea.

 

[deilenberger]

Don, thanks for pointing out the boat parts. The problem with those fuses is that someone might get tempted to use them in one of the typical automotive fuse holders commonly available at auto parts places (if they fit) and used by many to get parts and none of those holders commonly sold at auto places is rated for anything over 30A. That's why I suggested the fusible links which are usually on the next rack over and can carry the full load of a fuse panel. But I like that resettable breaker - looks like a good way to protect a battery power to the panel if you run it up front. As you note, boat sutff is typically more robust than all but the best automotive stuff.

Actually - the higher current fuses won't fit in a standard automotive fuse holder - so there isn't a worry about that.

I've always leaned toward using marine grade electronics on my bikes. The marine grade wiring is usually made of tin plated fine strands (to resist corrosion caused by capillary action drawing salt-water up into the wire, and for flexibility without fatigue), the other components (good ones) are usually designed for a very unfriendly environment (salt water and electronics is about the worst combination you can find.)

It costs a bit more then the usual auto-chain-store junk, but most of it is made in the US, and is of high quality. Sometimes the extra expense is worth it..

 

[flemmings27]

The part number for it is stamped on it and the relay is that little cube at the end of the wiring harness- the numbers on it can be decoded to identify exactly what it is. Find the numbers on it and it should be easy to identify but do not expect to see the makers name- usually it is absent or present only in an abbreviated form or logo.

Racer,

Ok, the cube is marked TYCO, 0-1432791-1 12VDC. When I googled that, I got the following below at Newark.com and Tyco's website says that product details are not currently available on line, but there is a link on their website for a customer drawing (see the attached PDF below), which looks more like a company document than a customer drawing.

Am I on the mark now? What does this tell you about the presence (or no) of resistance in it?

http://www.newark.com/jsp/displayPr...C&s_kwcid=TC|14641|1432791-1||S|b|5199796221:

Image is for illustrative purposes only.
Please refer to product description
TYCO ELECTRONICS / POTTER & BRUMFIELD

Manufacturer:
TYCO ELECTRONICS / POTTER & BRUMFIELD
Newark Part Number:
52K6431
Manufacturer Part No:
1432791-1

RoHS Compliance : RoHS Compliant Yes

Description

* AUTOMOTIVE RELAY, SPDT, 12VDC, 30A
* Coil Voltage VDC Nom:12V
* Contact Current Max:30A
* Contact Voltage DC Nom:14V
* Coil Resistance:90ohm
* Contacts:SPDT
* Relay Mountinglug In
* External Height:24.5mm
* External Width:26.5mm
* RoHS Compliant: Yes

 

[deilenberger]

From the drawing - no damping resistor on it.. (or diode.)

 

[racer7]

Joyce-
Don already provided the answer- it is not a protected type. The part of the drawing he refers to is the schematic at the lower right of p2 of the spec drawing at your link. If it were a protected relay, the symbol for a diode or a resistor would be in parallel with the relay coil.

Anyway, most folks don't use either a protected relay or a diode in the trigger wire (the Fuzeblock, however, comes with this protection built into its circuit board- 2 diodes one of which is across the realy and the other on the trigger wire). If you want to join the cautious few, just solder a 1A, 1500 PIV diode into the trigger wire in the orientation that allows it to pass current to the relay so the fuse anel works. It will prevent any normal back voltages. Its not abolutely necessary, jsut a precaution, so does not have to be there.

Good luck with your wiring. I'll be doing some more lights on mine next week when the last of the parts I need arrive.

 

[flemmings27]

Hi Folks,

Welp, my centech AP2 is fully wired up and on. Thanks for everyone's advice. I took some pictures and can make up a basic DIY post for this for the year group of R1200RTs that mine belongs to (05-09), but where is the best place on this forum to post that? Here, or is there a specific DIY section?

Thanks again for all your help!