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??Cat-Code plugs??

C

CRUISIN

Guest
I have questions about cat-code plugs. I recently went through the 0=0 routine along with throttle body sync. after replacing the throttle cables on my '98 R1100RT. I followed the Rob Lentini directions and others to the letter. even had to do it a second time to get it right, (just like predicted by the internet instructions. ;) ) Now everything is pretty good except for the idle when first starting up; I have to maintain a pretty high setting with the throttle for about 30 to 60 seconds before it will idle on it's own. I used the pink cat-code plug as Lentini suggested. But she seems awfully cold natured with it and even after a thorough warm-up of many miles, I get an occasional stutter when decelerating to make a turn or come to a stop. I have had to bump the idle up to around 1400rpm to keep it from dying at stops and rounding corners. I've read that the pink plug leans out the mixture, so now I'm wondering if it may be a bit too lean for the altitude where I live (~3600ft.) I never had these symptoms with the original mustard colored plug. I've also read that running without any plug puts the mixture somewhere between the mustard and pink.

My questions are these:

1. is there another plug that will remap the mixture just a bit richer than the pink one, but not as rich as the mustard?

2. does running without a plug truly make the mixture somewhere between the two I have tried?

3. does it matter which direction you install the plugs? they will fit two ways, 180 degrees apart.

Just to re-iterate; it runs perfectly at all rpms beyond idle to very slow. I ran it about 50 miles yesterday at a variety of rpms in all gears and used the throttle lock to make sure I didn't subconsciously adjust for subtle variations in the internal workings of the engine. There was no surging, no missing, no hesitation, no unusual vibration. Had good throttle response above 1500 and all the way up to 6500rpm. I let it hold steady at a given rpm for 3 to 5 miles at each setting. I'm :ear listening for more of the great advice I have learned to expect here.

thanks in advance.
 
didn't know it was out there

no, I didn't. A friend had given me a CD with several articles about Oilhead maintenance that included the 0=0, TB sync and several other articles written by various folks but that part of Rob's writings were not on it.

thanks, I'll study that a bit more and see if I can figure out the next step I need to take.
 
nothing like a new twist

Alllllllrighty then!!!!

There's nothing like a new twist to make life interesting. I was planning on looking further into the problems described above this weekend. Well the bike decided it couldn't wait for more attention. It quit on me on the way to work this morning. (This is 450 miles into all the other things I did recently) It just suddenly died while cruising along at 65mph, like someone had cut the plug wires. With the way it did this I am thinking an electrical problem of some sort because everything lights up on the dash, lights come on, blinkers work, RID is functional, etc, etc. And there was no missing, tapering off of power, sputtering or any warning at all, it just died. When I try to restart, it doesn't even try to kick over a little bit like it would if just starved for fuel and burning what little might have found it's way to the injectors. (Yes it has a full tank of gas). So, now I'm thinking loose wire on hall effect sensor, or maybe some other electrical failure. I checked all the fuses under the seat briefly this morning while waiting on my wife to come rescue me so I could get the cruiser and still make a 10:15 interview for a new position where I work. Now just waiting on her brother to show up with a trailer he borrowed so we can tear into it in the comfort of the shop instead of tying to trouble-shoot and repair on the side of the road. I guess also since I did the fuel filter conversion, it might not hurt to double check that the pump is running, but the suddenness of the symptoms felt more electrical than fuel related.

Any thoughts from the collective while I wait? :bottle
 
Check the normal things, do you have spark while cranking the engine? Does the furl pump run for a couple of seconds when you turn the ignition to Run? Does your tach needle wiggle while you crank the engine? Where are you?

And for the symptoms, if the fuel pump seizes, it usually blows the fuse. It'll stop just like you turned the ignition off. :(
 
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working on the fix

I found this with a search shortly after posting my last questions. Have been getting it home and digging into it since then. It seems the consensus for a nearly identical problem in the other thread is the HES. Going to try to get it all apart and checked out tomorrow morning. I've saved the link to Dana Hager's instruction on the subject and plan to check out as much as I have the equipment for before putting it all back together. I'm hoping this is just a quirk of fate that the HES went bad within 500 miles of all the other work I just did.
 
I've saved the link to Dana Hager's instruction on the subject and plan to check out as much as I have the equipment for before putting it all back together. I'm hoping this is just a quirk of fate that the HES went bad within 500 miles of all the other work I just did.

Using Dana's site, you can build a test box for about $20 but it may not tell you the true state of your wiring harness from the 6-pin connector down to the actual Hall devices. http://users.rcn.com/dehager/
 
yea, I figured while I've got it out, knowing that the wiring is usually the wink link, I will just replace all of it too if the sensors check out OK.
 
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