Battery - YUASA 53030

[globalrider]

When you get 8 full years out of a battery with it failing in the 9th year, why switch to anything else. I might get another year or two if I didn't forget to hook up a battery charger/maintainer the odd time. After the factory fitted Mareg battery failed (after 9 years), I replaced it with another Mareg and then switched to a YUASA.

And at less than half the price of a high-tech AG ATX-30 Lithium battery, I doubt I would get 16 to 18 years (based on cost) out of one.

And yes, I have heard it all about leaking batteries and corroded battery boxes, but I've never had any of those issues in any of my two or four wheeled vehicles.

YUASA 53030 Yumicron Conventional (Flooded Lead Acid) Battery


By the way, you need 2 x 32 fl.oz. containers of 1.280 SG battery acid.

 

[20774]

How similar are the Yuasa and the Mareg? The Yuasa looks familiar but my maintenance notes don't indicate which one I used way in the past...at some point I switched to Mareg. But the style and appearance of the two appear to be the same.

 

[globalrider]

How similar are the Yuasa and the Mareg?

Well I know they fit. From my Notes...

Battery:

Description: Mareg 12V 25Ah 130A, DIN 52515.
Dimensions (max): 169 mm H x 185 mm L x 130 mm W.

Description: YUASA 53030 (2D214), 30Ah (10HR).
Dimensions (max): 6.6875” H x 7.2500” L x 5.0000” W.
Dimensions (max): 170 mm H x 184 mm L x 127 mm W.
Acid capacity: 54.1 oz. (1.6 liter).

The 2D214 above is their Date Code.

My new YUASA 53030 has a Date Code of 9D24D1. YUASA got back to me with April 24, 2019 when I asked what that code meant. For my July 2023 purchase, it makes the "empty" battery 4 years old. Pulling the vent plug prior to filling it, it sucked air. Hopefully that means the lead plates have not been contaminated with O2 or moisture, etc. (I am not a chemist, I'm a math & physics guy).

 

[globalrider]

From YUASA's site...(the Hour Rate for the capacity is slightly off from what is on my battery to what is shown)

 

[mikegalbicka]

My new YUASA 53030 has a Date Code of 9D24D1. YUASA got back to me with April 24, 2019 when I asked what that code meant. For my July 2023 purchase, it makes the "empty" battery 4 years old.

Wow. That would irk me somewhat to get a new battery that old.

 

[globalrider]

Wow. That would irk me somewhat to get a new battery that old.

Not really all that worried although I did let YUASA know about it.

 

[etiennelau]

Did Yuasa not have an AGM instead of the flooded lead acid? Or was that your own choice to stick with flooded lead acid?

 

[globalrider]

Did Yuasa not have an AGM instead of the flooded lead acid? Or was that your own choice to stick with flooded lead acid?

1) didn't want an AGM.
2) always my choice to go FLA if that is what it came with. Hey, look at my FLA record...8+ years (motorcycles) and 14-16 years (cars).

Plus you have to look at how the charging system in the vehicle works...was it set up for a GEL, FLA or AGM? These days it is easy to hook up a scanner and program the battery type into the ECU (at least in cars).

 

[etiennelau]

1) didn't want an AGM.
2) always my choice to go FLA if that is what it came with. Hey, look at my FLA record...8+ years (motorcycles) and 14-16 years (cars).

Plus you have to look at how the charging system in the vehicle works...was it set up for a GEL, FLA or AGM? These days it is easy to hook up a scanner and program the battery type into the ECU (at least in cars).

LOL, We here in hot states (TX, AZ, NM, FL) avoid FLA like the plague. Why? Because the heat from here causes the acid to boil/evaporate and that results in the lead plates being exposed. So this in turn requires annual ritual of refilling with distilled water every 3-6 months. If one does not go through this ritual which is all too common here in TX, you're FLA only last 2 years maybe 3 years.

We also don't want to deal with the beautiful white fuzz from the acid forming on the outside of the battery again caused by heat, causing the acid to vent out.....

Hence ALL my vehicles are AGM as I refuse to continue doing the distilled water ritual and cleaning the fuzz off the battery. Even with AGM batteries were getting 5-7 years.

HEAT kills the battery, cold weather up north just makes them work harder. I used to live in Vancouver, and always expected 8-10 years out of a car battery. Surprise when I arrived in TX and 2 years was the norm.....

 

[Omega Man]

There are a few here doing a lot better than I am. Currently running 18 or so batteries from motorcycle to lawn tractor to group 31 to 4D auxiliary power. The best life is with the dual battery systems- Diesel engines.


OM

 

[globalrider]

HEAT kills the battery...

I know. It shortens their life but as someone already mentioned, at least in a car, when you are stuck in traffic with the battery under the engine hood (most cars), no matter where you are, be it the deep south or cooler north, that battery will have a shorter life.

Anyway, owner neglect and overcharging is the #1 killer.

 

[mikegalbicka]

Anyway, owner neglect and overcharging is the #1 killer.

I also keep my battery on an Optimate 4 tender whenever it is parked at home. I have assumed it is smart enough not to overcharge but have not verified with a meter and compared the results to the graphs you provided on the other thread.

 

[globalrider]

I have assumed it is smart enough not to overcharge but have not verified with a meter and compared the results to the graphs you provided on the other thread.

The overcharging is due to the vehicle's charging system. Battery chargers and maintainers tend to be conservative and undercharge the battery by about 0.2V from what I have seen using my MadgeTech data logger.

We had government vehicles that would overcharge the batteries in the high heat of the summer. The voltage regulators in the alternators were not doing their job (incorrectly chosen temperature compensation by the manufacturer or one that is faulty). Ideally, you would want a voltage regulator with a remote temperature probe at the battery (they exist and some upper end chargers like the Xantrex has that).

 

[mikegalbicka]

Thanks for the clarification. Probably not a mod I would consider for my 07RT to get some possible battery longevity in our heat but I understand the concept better now.

 

[Omega Man]

The overcharging is due to the vehicle's charging system. Battery chargers and maintainers tend to be conservative and undercharge the battery by about 0.2V from what I have seen using my MadgeTech data logger.

We had government vehicles that would overcharge the batteries in the high heat of the summer. The voltage regulators in the alternators were not doing their job (incorrectly chosen temperature compensation by the manufacturer or one that is faulty). Ideally, you would want a voltage regulator with a remote temperature probe at the battery (they exist and some upper end chargers like the Xantrex has that).

Along those lines, RV’s have notoriously bad systems for charging the “house” batteries. Stock systems mainly have a converter to go from 110v to battery charging……basically constantly hitting the batteries with charge voltage no matter what.
In my motorhome, there was the typical converter and battery checking would use 2-2/3 gallons of “make up” water per season.
Upon my changing the converter (still a converter) to a converter with an intelligent charging system, the make up water dropped to 2/3rds of a cup per season. This is because the converter knew to charge the house batteries based on need and not just a flat to the floor voltage supply.

OM

 

[globalrider]

Along those lines, RV’s have notoriously bad systems for charging the “house” batteries.

OM

The Xantrex Truecharge II is used by many in the RV and boating world. Its not popular in the vehicle world in that the owner needs to wire in the input and output cables and many owners could not be bothered with that.

But it is the best charger/maintainer that we tested in our defense labs and it has features not found anywhere else. We tested the 12V 20A model and from what I can remember from 15 years back, it had three seperate outputs for batteries where the 20A would be shared between them, or 20A going to one battery if you so choose.

Options were a remote panel and battery temperature sensor.


Xantrex Truecharge II, available as a 20A, 40A or 60A model.



Xantrex Truecharge II panel.



Xantrex Truecharge II Remote Panel (optional).



Xantrex Truecharge II Remote Battery Temperature Sensor (when not using the manual controls on the Xantrex).

 

[Omega Man]

No doubt that would be a great way to charge batteries. Unfortunately most RV's have a load center that looks like this-

Splitting off the DC charge circuit would be rather complicated and would require a new location, probably with fan ventilation.

Best Converter is a great place to purchase supplies for an upgrade- https://www.bestconverter.com

OM