Battery dead in less than 3 days? 99 r1100r

[terminalangles]

Let me start off by saying i tried searching, but didnt see anything along this line.

Giving 99 r11r a much needed tune up.
New tires, oil/filter, battery, starter, etc...
First battery i thought i left the ignition turned on overnight and it was toast (1.6V).
They sent me a new one(yuasa). Put it in and she fired right up. Rode her a bit, and loaded her up to take to the local dealer(honda) to have tires put on.

Get a call 2 days later saying tires were done but bike wouldnt crank and needed a new battery.
Correct me if im wrong but there is no system on this bike that would pull enough power to drain a battery in 24-48 hours, except ignition being left on....?

Could i have a draw somewhere or did i just catch the dealer in a lie(they said they didnt leave it on)???
Only then aftermarket on electrical side is battery tender hook ups.

Thanks guys

 

[pglaves]

Correct me if im wrong but there is no system on this bike that would pull enough power to drain a battery in 24-48 hours, except ignition being left on....?

Not normally but normal doesn't count. That is two in a row.The typical routine would be to fully charge the battery and to then affix an ammeter to the battery circuit to test for drain. If there isn't any substantial drain then fine, somebody screwed up. But if there is then the routine is to remove fuses and/or disconnect circuits until the drain stops, and then to trouble shoot the circuits that caused the drain.

 

[terminalangles]

Not normally but normal doesn't count. That is two in a row.The typical routine would be to fully charge the battery and to then affix an ammeter to the battery circuit to test for drain. If there isn't any substantial drain then fine, somebody screwed up. But if there is then the routine is to remove fuses and/or disconnect circuits until the drain stops, and then to trouble shoot the circuits that caused the drain.

Thats what i was thinking. Im going to take the receipt of the battery up there, they need to correct this.

 

[RPGR90s]

Thats what i was thinking. Im going to take the receipt of the battery up there, they need to correct this.

Don't you need to test for battery drain as Paul suggested?

 

[Omega Man]

Let me start off by saying i tried searching, but didnt see anything along this line.

Giving 99 r11r a much needed tune up.
New tires, oil/filter, battery, starter, etc...
First battery i thought i left the ignition turned on overnight and it was toast (1.6V).
They sent me a new one(yuasa). Put it in and she fired right up. Rode her a bit, and loaded her up to take to the local dealer(honda) to have tires put on.

Get a call 2 days later saying tires were done but bike wouldnt crank and needed a new battery.
Correct me if im wrong but there is no system on this bike that would pull enough power to drain a battery in 24-48 hours, except ignition being left on....?

Could i have a draw somewhere or did i just catch the dealer in a lie(they said they didnt leave it on)???
Only then aftermarket on electrical side is battery tender hook ups.

Thanks guys

That is enough “draw” to easily test. Charge the battery and at night, gently “rake” the negative cable on the negative battery terminal and look for a little sparking. With no draw, there should be none. (could be a faint spark if you have power holding the clock time)
You really need to see the time line for the goings on under these conditions.

This link may help you- https://www.pipsisland.com/how-to-check-for-a-draw-on-a-car-battery-with-a-test-light/

OM

 

[ebell]

As I understand it.

The battery should've been charged fully overnight before the first crank. If the battery isn't fully charged, there's a possibility the battery was damaged at that not-fully-charged first crank.

As I also understand things...
When connected to the battery, the voltmeter should read around 12.6v with the engine off
When pressing the starter, the readout should show a voltage drop not below 9v, more like 9.5v to 9.8v
When the engine is running, the readout should come back to around 13.5v

There's a possibility the battery was hosed at the first crank because it wasn't fully charged. Batteries sit on shelves before sale, and are (usually) never fully charged. Always do an overnight charge on a new battery. I'm sure I'll be informed if this is incorrect, so be kind.

PS: you should still be able to jump start the bike.

YMMV.

 

[jsouth]

Don't overlook a starter problem. I replaced a battery only to discover the real problem was the old starter. Some of them had flaws that allowed the magnets to detach from the starter housing and made it incredibly difficult (or impossible) to turn. A new starter solved my issue and I still have the Odyssey battery six years later. My previous Odyssey lasted twelve years.

 

[terminalangles]

Don't overlook a starter problem. I replaced a battery only to discover the real problem was the old starter. Some of them had flaws that allowed the magnets to detach from the starter housing and made it incredibly difficult (or impossible) to turn. A new starter solved my issue and I still have the Odyssey battery six years later. My previous Odyssey lasted twelve years.

Just installed a new starter.

 

[terminalangles]

So i got a call from them today saying that the battery was weak and when they tried to jump it off, fuel began pouring out of the right side.

grrrrrr.... this tells me the twit wiffles tried to pull the battery but didnt support the tank and broke a gas line.

They then said to bring a trailer and the tires were done, but they "are only a Honda shop" and they didnt want to do anything else. So i guess now I get to see what they broke. Im fighting the urge to make a huge deal about this.
I understand its not their usual thing, but if you take it, and you break it, then i shouldnt be paying to fix it.

 

[terminalangles]

Don't you need to test for battery drain as Paul suggested?

im going to do it when i get it home tomorrow. i fully anticipate there being no draw, meaning they left the bike on. This bike has been meticulously maintained for 20 years. It only sat the last few months because I havent been able to ride.

 

[nrpetersen]

Could well be a shorted diode in the alternator output bridge. Or the rotor current control system.

 

[globalrider]

Could i have a draw somewhere...

How do you know the alternator is charging correctly. Now you know why I have a voltmeter connected to my battery.



Have you done a test to check for a drain?

 

[globalrider]

Don't overlook a starter problem. I replaced a battery only to discover the real problem was the old starter. Some of them had flaws that allowed the magnets to detach from the starter housing and made it incredibly difficult (or impossible) to turn.

That happened on my 1990 R100 GS, but the other issue in the oilhead starter is the plate that comes loose and then shorts the armature winding to ground. I rebuilt that starter and kept is as a spare.

Of course that would be obvious is you had a voltmeter installed and saw your voltage drop to 7V, an indication of a very high current draw also known as a "short".

 

[terminalangles]

How do you know the alternator is charging correctly. Now you know why I have a voltmeter connected to my battery.

View attachment 92573

Have you done a test to check for a drain?

Just did a drain test and got 2.7mA

You know i could jusitfy an alternator issue if the problem happened during usage. But a brand new battery being dead the next day after 15mins of riding? Or a brand new battery being dead 48 hours later after 3min of idle? Doesnt make sense to my brain.

 

[globalrider]

Just did a drain test and got 2.7mA

Well that is nothing, but keep in mind that a 2.7 mA drain in a 20 Ah battery and a 100 Ah battery plays out differently in time. On a 100 Ah battery, who cares but on a 20 Ah battery you might need to keep an eye on the battery voltage every couple of weeks and charge it back up.

My Datel voltmeter draws less than 2 mA which is why it is "always-on" and connected directly to the battery posts.

 

[terminalangles]

Pulled every relay and fuse in the box. Everything stayed at 2.6mA draw except for fuse 5 which when pulled dropped to 1.7mA.

 

[globalrider]

Pulled every relay and fuse in the box. Everything stayed at 2.6mA draw except for fuse 5 which when pulled dropped to 1.7mA.

Well none of those values would prevent a healthy motorcycle battery from going dead days later unless...

• The battery was defective (no capacity). If your battery is the same as on my oilhead, it is a 19 Ah battery.
• An alternator that is not charging. How many volts does it read while driving?
• A bad diode in the alternator as mentioned in post #11.

And who knows what else I cannot think of right now.

 

[RPGR90s]

Forgive my ignorance if you've listed this already, but which battery are you using?

My next question would be, have you had it load tested?

 

[terminalangles]

Forgive my ignorance if you've listed this already, but which battery are you using?

My next question would be, have you had it load tested?

Yuasa 19BL-BS.

 

[terminalangles]

Well none of those values would prevent a healthy motorcycle battery from going dead days later unless...

• The battery was defective (no capacity). If your battery is the same as on my oilhead, it is a 19 Ah battery.
• An alternator that is not charging. How many volts does it read while driving?
• A bad diode in the alternator as mentioned in post #11.

And who knows what else I cannot think of right now.

yes 19Ah
again i could understand the alternator if it was draining with use. 1st battery had 15min of riding. 2nd battery had about 3-5 minutes of idling. I dont have the ability to read Voltage while riding.
Not sure about this, but unless its shorting to ground i cant see it effecting a stationary bike.