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Advice on washing your RT

As far as I know. I mean, they are the stock pipes.

The primary issue with the pipes (for me) is the PO let them get all rusted from the crossover back. I'm not going to bother with the cat or the muffler because it is out of site. The chrome on the muffler is nice and shiny, but the header back to the cat is just dark brown with rust.

I've started working on them with WD40 and scotch bright pads. I can get a lot of the surface rust off, but it has gotten pitted on the parts of the pipes that run underneath the bike. It's such a beautiful machine and is in such nice condition, the pipes let it down, so to speak. So with a little elbow grease it will bring the bike up a level, and I'll just keep it clean through the year with normal washing. I just want to get it to that point - hence the questions about cleaning the rust off the pipes.
 
As far as I know. I mean, they are the stock pipes.

The primary issue with the pipes (for me) is the PO let them get all rusted from the crossover back. I'm not going to bother with the cat or the muffler because it is out of site. The chrome on the muffler is nice and shiny, but the header back to the cat is just dark brown with rust.

I've started working on them with WD40 and scotch bright pads. I can get a lot of the surface rust off, but it has gotten pitted on the parts of the pipes that run underneath the bike. It's such a beautiful machine and is in such nice condition, the pipes let it down, so to speak. So with a little elbow grease it will bring the bike up a level, and I'll just keep it clean through the year with normal washing. I just want to get it to that point - hence the questions about cleaning the rust off the pipes.
If the muffler is chrome the header should be the same.
On our RSs we had the option of chrome or stainless exhaust. I asked because it can make a difference on how you polish the different finishes.
I've never had to deal with headers that have turned brown from baked on dirt so I can't help on that.
I do know with chrome you don't want to get carried away with abrasive cleaners and polishes.
 
What did you use for the exhaust pipes? There is a fair amount of corrosion on the pipes underneath the bike. I had read about using red Scotch Bright and WD-40 followed by metal polish. Any advice?
I also used autosol on the pipes, but they really didn't do a whole more than other polish options, IMHO. This stuff:
Autosol Metal Polish 3.33 Oz.(75ml)

1741322966967.png

I used a little of everything in the garage inventory. Some chrome polish (Turtle Wax?), steel wool, tons of elbow grease. There's no easy solution to cleaning them. Having them recoated via after-market makes some sense, if you're hangin' out at Harley bars where someone cares about that stuff.

A few pix. I was working on other stuff at the time, had the rear tire off, looked underneath, and couldn't stand what I saw. So, I cleaned it up "this one time" and put some wax on it (probably burned off already), just to keep my conscience clean. šŸ˜ However, after some effort on the headers, I said "screw it, if I want pretty headers I'll have 'em ceramic coated". Cleaning it wasn't on my task list anyhow. It was more of a "... while I'm at it ...." kind of thingys.

1741323547923.jpeg


1741323586367.jpeg

I also cleaned the pipes under the engine and frame, and everything I could reach underneath, but didn't work too hard on it, maybe a half hour laying underneath the bikes, but I don't have a picture available (they're on my laptop). Significant improvement, but again, working on anything from the pegs down is a fool's errand. It'll all be dirty again 10 minutes after you head down the road.
 
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I have a couple ways I wash bikes. In a more casual, "it's kind of dirty" situation, I use S100 on the bodywork and Griots Heavy Duty Wheel Cleaner on the wheels. Wheel cleaner helps if you have lots of grime on your engine cases, as well, but NEVER let it dry. This wheel cleaner will remove brake dust and dirt really well. I bought a Griot's wheel brush and it gives me an ability to get in and get the crud off the wheel hub and between the "spokes". I've never had a cleaner snowflake wheel on my R100. A regular garden hose provides water.

Follow the instructions carefully on the cleaners. You never want to let the S100 nor the wheel cleaner dry in place. For some older airheads, particularly early 80s bikes, S100 can damage the satin finish black on those bikes and make them look cloudy, so be careful.

If it's really filthy, like slathered in bugs and filth, I have a foam cannon that plugs into my pressure washer. It's from from Chemical Brothers or Griot's. I'd have to go look. I use Mr. Pink for wash solution. I do the wheels first with the Griot's stuff, then slather the whole bike with foam and wash it with a wash mitt, rinsing it in a bucket of clean water. After I've washed it all down (don't let it dry!), I use the pressure washer to hose it off, avoiding direct blasting of electronics and wheel bearings. Afterwards, I'll use a plastic polish on the screen and dry it with a Griot's drying towel that works great.

I like to use Griot's Ceramic 3 in 1 afterwards. It's a spray that leaves a glossy, smooth finish that beads beautifully. The associated Ceramic Speed Shine is great for between wash cleanups and primping.

If I have dead bugs, I like the Seafoam bug and tar stuff. If there are a bunch, I will apply it before the wash. If there are a whole bunch, I'll soak an old T-shirt in soapy water and lay it over the bugs to soften them for a while prior washing them off.

I rarely spend time detailing my bikes, but like to keep them reasonably clean and good looking. If anything, wash time gives me a chance to give the bike a close inspection.

I hope that's helpful.
Excellent summary and detail. Printing:)
 
+1 on the Griot's Garage products.
Clean wash mitt and wheel/spoke cleaning brushes do most of the work.
Run my hose through an ionizer cartridge to eliminate water spotting.
Blow-dry everything as well as I can with a powerful battery-powered leaf blower (Sthil).
Dry the rest with clean tagless microfiber cloths.
When inspired I will do the plastic parts with the Griot's "3-in-1 Ceramic" wax.
Griot's Ceramic Metal Polish for... shiny metal.
If I'm really obsessing I'll get out some Vinyl and Rubber Protectant... usually only at the beginning and end of the season.
Polish to a blinding shine with the Griot's Microfiber Plush or Ultra-Plush Edgeless Towels.
I clean the TFT display with distilled water only on a clean microfiber cloth.
Week-to-week touchups with Griot's Ceramic Speed Shine. Great product! Again with the Plush or Ultra-Plush towels.
Clear windscreens and visors get Cee Bailey's Premium Windshield Cleaner and Dupont Sontara Aerospace-grade wipes. Micro scratches get polished out with the Novus plastic polish products if needed. The Griot's Plastic All-In-One is also a good product.
Have a great Detailing playlist I listen to when getting into it... play it loud!
Totally OCD. YMMV.
 
+1 on the Griot's Garage products.
Clean wash mitt and wheel/spoke cleaning brushes do most of the work.
Run my hose through an ionizer cartridge to eliminate water spotting.
Blow-dry everything as well as I can with a powerful battery-powered leaf blower (Sthil).
Dry the rest with clean tagless microfiber cloths.
When inspired I will do the plastic parts with the Griot's "3-in-1 Ceramic" wax.
Griot's Ceramic Metal Polish for... shiny metal.
If I'm really obsessing I'll get out some Vinyl and Rubber Protectant... usually only at the beginning and end of the season.
Polish to a blinding shine with the Griot's Microfiber Plush or Ultra-Plush Edgeless Towels.
I clean the TFT display with distilled water only on a clean microfiber cloth.
Week-to-week touchups with Griot's Ceramic Speed Shine. Great product! Again with the Plush or Ultra-Plush towels.
Clear windscreens and visors get Cee Bailey's Premium Windshield Cleaner and Dupont Sontara Aerospace-grade wipes. Micro scratches get polished out with the Novus plastic polish products if needed. The Griot's Plastic All-In-One is also a good product.
Have a great Detailing playlist I listen to when getting into it... play it loud!
Totally OCD. YMMV.
Are you excepting new customers? :brad :ha
OM
 
I dunno, but you guys are starting to sound like Harley owners discussing the latest advancements in spotless chrome cleaner. šŸ™„šŸ™ƒšŸ˜
Go ahead. Ride a filthy bike.

If this thing got left filthy, I’d get struck by lightning for it. :ha

I hate dirty vehicles, especially my bikes and even more especially my old bikes.

And I don’t buy that whole ā€œI’m too busy riding to wash my bikeā€ thing. It’s an hour. C’mon. I spent some decent money for these things, so I take care of them.
IMG_5573.jpeg
 
I hate dirty vehicles, especially my bikes and even more especially my old bikes.

And I don’t buy that whole ā€œI’m too busy riding to wash my bikeā€ thing. It’s an hour. C’mon. I spent some decent money for these things, so I take care of them.
Same here :)
 
Seems like there is an option to have a bike just dirty enough to impress-


It is an option. 😬

OM
Anybody remember the guy that showed up at a rally and wouldn't put his bike on the side stand? Just laid it down on the left jug. People kept thinking it had fallen over, so they'd pick it back up. It seemed to cheese him off, so he wrote "It's sleeping leave it on the ground" on the tank with a Sharpie.

OK, bud. You're the hardest mofo here. :ha
 
Anybody remember the guy that showed up at a rally and wouldn't put his bike on the side stand? Just laid it down on the left jug. People kept thinking it had fallen over, so they'd pick it back up. It seemed to cheese him off, so he wrote "It's sleeping leave it on the ground" on the tank with a Sharpie.

OK, bud. You're the hardest mofo here. :ha
Anybody ever ask him why he preferred to lay it on the left jug instead of using the side stand? Apparently he wasn't all that concerned with oil draining into it?
 
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