'92 Final Drive, Swingarm, Driveshaft R&R

[brittrunyon]

The bike is a GS.
I got 27k miles on this shaft.
I wonder if this shaft can be rebuilt due to the extent of the damage.
Who out there has used the Ted Porter Generation II replacement?

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/user/brittrunyon/media/1992%20R%20100%20GS%20-%20ZED/Driveshaft_7992_zpsl2fr8vqw.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i358/brittrunyon/1992%20R%20100%20GS%20-%20ZED/Driveshaft_7992_zpsl2fr8vqw.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Driveshaft_7992_zpsl2fr8vqw.jpg"/></a>

Next, I'm looking to pull and replace the pivot bearings on the swing arm.
Can this be done without a "special" tool?
I have a generic blind hole puller that might work.?
Can the new bearings simply be "tapped" in place?
The darn things are $68 each.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/user/brittrunyon/media/1992%20R%20100%20GS%20-%20ZED/Swingarm_7954_zps2otgvdyc.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i358/brittrunyon/1992%20R%20100%20GS%20-%20ZED/Swingarm_7954_zps2otgvdyc.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo Swingarm_7954_zps2otgvdyc.jpg"/></a>

Same for the pivot bearings in the final drive.
They are full of "fine" metal bits & pieces.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/user/brittrunyon/media/1992%20R%20100%20GS%20-%20ZED/_DSC8018_zpsub5qh51d.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i358/brittrunyon/1992%20R%20100%20GS%20-%20ZED/_DSC8018_zpsub5qh51d.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo _DSC8018_zpsub5qh51d.jpg"/></a>

Thanks Gang

 

[guenner]

The Achilles tendon of the old GS!

I just replaced the needle bearings. I used a regular bearing puller shaped like a tulip. Some heat on the swing arm helps.

If that doesn't work you can tap each race out with a long punch. The race has a tiny lip you can tap on from the other side carefully going round-and-round.

It seems from one of your pictures that your shaft is out of alignment. If true you either need a new shaft or a complete rebuilt. The yokes look good for a rebuild - I think.

I had mine rebuilt 2 years/20,000 miles ago by Guy Henderson (sales@hendersenprecision.com). Excellent work! I just had it out two weeks ago and it still looked perfect.

Btw. my previous shaft from BMW lasted 75,000 miles. Not bad! But the current price is ca. $700. Hew! The original one lasted 57,000 miles. Yours had a bit short lifetime. Doesn't look like an OEM one.

/Guenther

 

[brittrunyon]

Guenther, thanks for your response.

...."shaped like a tulip" your say, never thought of a tool looking like a flower

I was able to get the races of the final drive out with a "blind hole puller" or "slide hammer puller", don't think it looks much like a tulip.

<a href="http://s1089.photobucket.com/user/brittrunyon/media/1992%20R%20100%20GS%20-%20ZED/FD_8067_zpsvf0eacqr.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i358/brittrunyon/1992%20R%20100%20GS%20-%20ZED/FD_8067_zpsvf0eacqr.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo FD_8067_zpsvf0eacqr.jpg"/></a>

To use this on the swing arm I'm first must remove (destroy) the bearing part to get to the race.
Seems a long punch will not work because there is not a clear path from one side to the other.

Calling Henderson today concerning the shaft rebuild, thanks for the tip.
Bruno in Canada has a 8 week turn around time for $450

Still wondering about the Taiwanese version sold by Ted Porter.

 

[guenner]

Comparing a puller's shape to a flower shows my mechanical background. And I am no gardener either but this is what I had in mind:

View attachment 49066

Luckily I have a certified BMW airhead mechanic who is guiding/watching me.

I see, you have the right tools.

I was going the same path of thinking before I went with Guy Henderson. Once I saw the damper material (polyurethane based) that Guy is using I think the Taiwanese shaft with the silicone sticks is not a good idea. And I couldn't find a single road test review online.

In my cases I see two reasons the shaft becomes a problem: dry/seized U-joint bearings, misalignment of the upper/lower U-joints caused by softness of the damper. I think Guy's approach solves both cases.

/Guenther