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2010 R1200RT Clutch Won't Disengage When Hot

jkbales

New member
Has anyone seen this problem before?

2010 R1200RT, 2600 miles.

On hot days (90+) with the bike warmed up, in stop and go traffic, after a couple minutes my clutch gradually fails to completely disengage. I can feel the engagement point moving closer and closer toward the grip as things heat up. Eventually, even with the lever pulled all the way in, it starts dragging. The bike bucks against the brakes as it tries to move ahead at idle. RPMs decrease and soon it won't shift out of 1st. After a couple minutes it stalls. The problem is easily duplicated.

After I start moving it cools down and goes back to normal operation, until the next traffic stop. I don't normally sit at lights in gear the whole time but in stop and go traffic it happens.

In cooler weather clutch operation is entirely normal and shifting in fine. I haven't noticed any transmission problems, slippage, leaks, grinding, abnormal noises, etc. This is my 3rd RT.

Fluid level is in the proper range. Clutch lever is adjusted all the way out. When the problem happens engine oil temp never gets above 2 bars. The bike is not overheating, the problem seems to be only in the clutch.

Any ideas? I've contacted the dealer to get a service appointment. It's only June in Atlanta. Can you imagine what it'll be like in August?
 
I've read about there being a problem with air getting trapped in the line. Remember something about reroutinging the line. Seems I read about it on the BMW Sport Touring site.
 
Air was the first thing I thought of, it being a hydraulic system. There is no mushiness at lower temps, clutch action is always positive. I may be thinking about it wrong, but wouldn't air expand when heated, causing clutch disengagement and slippage? Ditto if too much fluid. That's the opposite of what I experience. It's like there's too little fluid to separate the clutch plates. Yet mineral oil levels in the reservoir stay constant (to my eye), the friction area seems to remain about the same, only the engagement point moves.
 
I found the link and it was at the BMW Sport Touring site:
http://bmwsporttouring.com/ubbthreads/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=697286#Post697286

Good luck!

Thanks! The thread seems to me more altitude related than heat related. I did some of what they suggested. I cut the cable ties that hold the clutch fluid tube and checked for an air gap loop. Didn't find one. I reconnected it loosely for now. I had already opened the reservoir to equalize any pressure in it. We'll see if the system "self bleeds" and corrects the problem. I haven't heard from the dealer in three days anyway so it looks like I'll have some time to play with it.

I the thread there's a suggestion to tilt the front wheel up and work the clutch to aid bleeding. I did something like that only better. I went up and down the road to Amicalola Falls, Georgia. It's a 20% grade and a much better ride than wood blocks in the driveway.

Some of the possibilities for this symptom I've seen are horrific, like case misalignment, to serious like bearing or shaft problems to mundane things like warped clutch plates. I don't really suspect friction or pressure plates since I don't have any problems during normal operation, like on a flat road, in gear, clutch in, the bike just sits. There is no tendency to move forward.
 
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Lose some fluid!

The mineral oil in the master cylinder is too full! Most probable and needs some taken out. IF you can see no fill level in the plastic resevoir , its likely too full. As the clutch wears the mineral oil level rizes, not lowering and too full will mean slipped clutch action, or leaks. I have had to remove oil from my GSA1200 resevoir once in 64000miles...Its mineral oil only in the '07 models. Yours? I never had any clutch issues on mine, so I speculate some here on your issue, I know. Best regards, Randy:usa
 
The mineral oil in the master cylinder is too full!

The level is between min and max marks. It was way overfilled at the factory or dealer before delivery. So was the brake fluid. I corrected them.

Since I opened the reservoir and fiddled with the tube, I have not experienced the problem. Yesterday (it was hot again, big surprise) I idled in gear for 5 minutes with no noticeable change in clutch action. My fingers are crossed that it was only air now bled out.

John
 
I have the same issue with my 2012 R1200RT.

Did you find a solution? Haven't been able to talk with the dealer yet, but can't live with the problem as it stands. Was stuck on a bridge in NYC this weekend!

Has anyone seen this problem before?

2010 R1200RT, 2600 miles.

On hot days (90+) with the bike warmed up, in stop and go traffic, after a couple minutes my clutch gradually fails to completely disengage. I can feel the engagement point moving closer and closer toward the grip as things heat up. Eventually, even with the lever pulled all the way in, it starts dragging. The bike bucks against the brakes as it tries to move ahead at idle. RPMs decrease and soon it won't shift out of 1st. After a couple minutes it stalls. The problem is easily duplicated.

After I start moving it cools down and goes back to normal operation, until the next traffic stop. I don't normally sit at lights in gear the whole time but in stop and go traffic it happens.

In cooler weather clutch operation is entirely normal and shifting in fine. I haven't noticed any transmission problems, slippage, leaks, grinding, abnormal noises, etc. This is my 3rd RT.

Fluid level is in the proper range. Clutch lever is adjusted all the way out. When the problem happens engine oil temp never gets above 2 bars. The bike is not overheating, the problem seems to be only in the clutch.

Any ideas? I've contacted the dealer to get a service appointment. It's only June in Atlanta. Can you imagine what it'll be like in August?
 
Did you find a solution? Haven't been able to talk with the dealer yet, but can't live with the problem as it stands. Was stuck on a bridge in NYC this weekend!

Yes. Making sure the mineral oil is at the correct level and tapping the hydraulic lines (with the reservoir top off) to be sure there is no air trapped in the system seems to have fixed it. As my clutch has worn, the oil level has risen, so I'll remove more soon.
 
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