2001 surger

[EGG-3]

Well I purchased a 2001 R1100RT with only 12,000 miles and it has the dreaded surge that I am try to deal with.So far i have a two brothers exhaust installed and the booster plug will be here today after the I am not sure but in town it drives me crazzy with all the surging.

 

[23217]

I presume that you are using Autolite sparkplugs. Oddly enough, they seem to help. I also presume that you have replaced the throttle cables.

 

[redsledrider]

There seems to be some parts missing??

I to am having the surge issue, after replacing the hall sensor. I have a unit that adds a little bite of fuel to help with the leaness, but anything under 4500 rpm it's like riding a bucking bull.

Rides me nuts.

 

[PGlaves]

The aftermarket exhaust is not helping. In theory it flows better, which means that upstream the mixture would tend to be leaner. If the O2 sensor is still installed then it can correct somewhat, but not entirely. If not, then all bets are off.

 

[EGG-3]

Spark plugs

I presume that you are using Autolite sparkplugs. Oddly enough, they seem to help. I also presume that you have replaced the throttle cables.

At this point I will try anything that will help with the surge.Autolite plugs will be on order soon,Is there a special plug # from Autolite?
Thank you for the information.

 

[EGG-3]

O2 sensor

The aftermarket exhaust is not helping. In theory it flows better, which means that upstream the mixture would tend to be leaner. If the O2 sensor is still installed then it can correct somewhat, but not entirely. If not, then all bets are off.

Yes the O2 sensor is in the aftermarket twobrothers exhaust and still connected.

 

[pauls1150]

Autolite plugs are AP3923.
Cheap and easy to find; my corner Kragen had to order them but they showed up in two days. (Note that the AP3922 is hotter and is for the 1150, not the 1100.)

If you're having a surging problem:
1) Make sure your valves aren't set too tight; .007 and .013-014 work better than the factory's recommendation.
2) Check the Zero setting of the TPS, and then the Idle setting, per Rob Lentini's instructions on the BMW Internet Riders site.
http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/
3) Then do a super-careful throttle-body sync.

You can use not-so-good sparkplugs for the tune-up, so that that the better plugs won't mask an out-of-balance condition.

Inspect the spark plug wires and cap very closely - as old as the bike is, one may be cracked or broken. One of the ones I've seen was actually visible only at night (or in the darkened garage) - we saw the blue arcing from the junction of the wire & cap directly to the valve cover!

 

[ANDYMCLAIN]

Oilhead surging

Anyone have any luck with the dual spark conversion kit? I have an '04 oilhead with the dual spark, with no surge whatsoever. Sorry, can't recall right offhand who offers the kit.

 

[nrpetersen]

I suggest checking the Big Brass Screw (BBS) settings. They should be about 1 to 1 1/2 turns out from fully closed if the factory (and others) set things up properly. If they are substantially different, you should clean the throttle bodies and BBS ports thoroughly with carb cleaner and swabbing with Q-tips, and make the airflows equal by adjusting those do-not-touch throttle stop screws.

Assuming your throttle shafts are not worn (not likely at 12K miles), you should be able to get surge free operation after a anal intake valve settings, with the BBSs set out 1 1/2 turns each, slak the throttle cables, and then adjust the idle with the throttle stop screws, then adjust the TPS to .385 V, then adjust the throttle cables for equal pull open with a carb equalizer setup.

I think surging is caused by one cylinder dropping out at part throttle closed loop control. My R1100RT at 20K miles was terrible on surging til I did the above.

 

[PGlaves]

I suggest checking the Big Brass Screw (BBS) settings. They should be about 1 to 1 1/2 turns out from fully closed if the factory (and others) set things up properly. If they are substantially different, you should clean the throttle bodies and BBS ports thoroughly with carb cleaner and swabbing with Q-tips, and make the airflows equal by adjusting those do-not-touch throttle stop screws.

Assuming your throttle shafts are not worn (not likely at 12K miles), you should be able to get surge free operation after a anal intake valve settings, with the BBSs set out 1 1/2 turns each, slak the throttle cables, and then adjust the idle with the throttle stop screws, then adjust the TPS to .385 V, then adjust the throttle cables for equal pull open with a carb equalizer setup.

I think surging is caused by one cylinder dropping out at part throttle closed loop control. My R1100RT at 20K miles was terrible on surging til I did the above.

Read the TPS voltage closed throttle on the red/white wire at the TPS connector.

 

[EGG-3]

Bbs

I suggest checking the Big Brass Screw (BBS) settings. They should be about 1 to 1 1/2 turns out from fully closed if the factory (and others) set things up properly. If they are substantially different, you should clean the throttle bodies and BBS ports thoroughly with carb cleaner and swabbing with Q-tips, and make the airflows equal by adjusting those do-not-touch throttle stop screws.

Assuming your throttle shafts are not worn (not likely at 12K miles), you should be able to get surge free operation after a anal intake valve settings, with the BBSs set out 1 1/2 turns each, slak the throttle cables, and then adjust the idle with the throttle stop screws, then adjust the TPS to .385 V, then adjust the throttle cables for equal pull open with a carb equalizer setup.

I think surging is caused by one cylinder dropping out at part throttle closed loop control. My R1100RT at 20K miles was terrible on surging til I did the above.

I am in the shop checking the BBS now and thank you so much for the information.

 

[EGG-3]

Tps

Read the TPS voltage closed throttle on the red/white wire at the TPS connector.

Thank you for the updated information and I will be checking this.What an awesome place for information and I would like to thank you guys again for all the help.

 

[EGG-3]

Bbs

I am in the shop checking the BBS now and thank you so much for the information.

Left side BBS was at 1 turn
Right side BBS was at 1.5 turns
Both sides now set at 1.5 turns

 

[nrpetersen]

Left side BBS was at 1 turn
Right side BBS was at 1.5 turns
Both sides now set at 1.5 turns

Hmmmmm........ The BBSs were not too bad.

Make sure your intake valve clearances are correct with maybe a very slightly greater clearance (.001 to .002) setting on the right cylinder. Check the exhaust valves at the same time of course.

You should be able to use the BBSs for an equal final idle manifold vacuum setting. They don't have to be exactly the same.

Are your throttle bodies clean? Do you get smooth idle and equal throttle opening w carb stix? And do you get about 385 millivolts at the TPS wiper at closed throttle?

Otherwise, I'm outside my experience & speculative philosophy if you get surging with near equal BBS settings.

 

[26667]

2cents fwiw

1) Make sure your valves aren't set too tight; .007 and .013-014 work better than the factory's recommendation.
2) Check the Zero setting of the TPS, and then the Idle setting, per Rob Lentini's instructions on the BMW Internet Riders site.
http://www.ibmwr.org/r-tech/oilheads/
3) Then do a super-careful throttle-body sync.

I've owned two of these machines, and I promise, I'm no kind of tech. BUT, that said, with the two 1100RT machines I've owned, this made all the difference.

I hope it's ultimately as simple for you.

 

[racer7]

You're on the wrong track with that non stock exhaust. A while ago I had to remove one from a friends R1100S. It ran like crap and didn't start at all well with a midpipe and a 2 Bros muffler set. When returned to stock config it worked fine WITH NO OTHER CHANGES.

More open pipes need proper reprogramming of fueling. A spoofer is a very inadequate attempt to address that and will not solve most types of problems.

The current 1200 is a big improvement over the fueling on the 1100 or 1150...

 

[EGG-3]

Clean

Hmmmmm........ The BBSs were not too bad.

Make sure your intake valve clearances are correct with maybe a very slightly greater clearance (.001 to .002) setting on the right cylinder. Check the exhaust valves at the same time of course.

You should be able to use the BBSs for an equal final idle manifold vacuum setting. They don't have to be exactly the same.

Are your throttle bodies clean? Do you get smooth idle and equal throttle opening w carb stix? And do you get about 385 millivolts at the TPS wiper at closed throttle?

Otherwise, I'm outside my experience & speculative philosophy if you get surging with near equal BBS settings.

Well i thought that I would start from the inspection and cleaning stand point and this is what I found.



It is time for a good cleaning on the inside and then off to steps 1-4
Thanks again for all the information.

 

[Bmandiego]

...... you should be able to get surge free operation after a anal intake valve settings, .......

That sounds way too painful to me. I'd live with the surge., lol

 

[Bmandiego]

What about running a tank with Seafoam added? That should help clean stuff up.

 

[jammess]

Hit her with the old carb cleaner and maybe remove the TPS before cleaning just note the voltage and set it as before removal or just set at .390 volts. That booster plug might help.