1999 R1100RT Throttle body sync

[Gregory]

Idle adjustment is pretty straight forward. Loosen both right and left cables then sync idle using brass screws. When syncing at 3K rpm do I use just the right cable or both left and right to achieve sync? Thanks, Gregory

 

[pauls1150]

Have a look at https://ibmwr.org/index.php/oilhead-r-bike-tech-articles/
The left side of the page lists a huge collection of tune-up articles, enjoy!

 

[m_stock10506]

When syncing at 3K rpm do I use just the right cable or both left and right to achieve sync? Thanks, Gregory

I say that it depends. Let’s say the right side needs to be tightened once you see the balance results. But if the right cable is already very close to zero free play, then you loosen the left cable instead. As long as you still have some free play on both sides, it doesn’t matter which side you adjust.

 

[AntonLargiader]

I sync just off-idle. Get the idle even, and then make sure the sync stays good as you barely roll the throttle on and shift from the idle screws to the cables. If that transition is good (feels good) then that's all that matters.

 

[dieselyoda]

I am less prone to worry about idle sync. If it's close, an 1" of HG and doesn't stall. I'm happy.

TPS sensor setting at idle is critical and the width of +/- is very narrow.

When my TPS is on the mark and Idle sync is close, then I try to get the higher speed (2500-4500 RPM) sync within a .250 of HG.

I spend more time on the highway than I do idling through the city.

 

[cam_on_van_isle]

I ride around with a pair of needle nose pliers and a 10mm wrench and just tweak it a 32nd of a turn or less when required.
To test I ride at about 3500 rpm in 3rd, no load, and tiny adjustments.
Make sure the left throttle body cable has some play, and then adjust the right hand side
Theses bikes really are a pleasure when they are spot on... but it doesn't last

 

[cam_on_van_isle]

I ride around with a pair of needle nose pliers and a 10mm wrench and just tweak it a 32nd of a turn or less when required.
To test I ride at about 3500 rpm in 3rd, no load, and tiny adjustments.
Make sure the left throttle body cable has some play, and then adjust the right hand side
Theses bikes really are a pleasure when they are spot on... but it doesn't last

One thing I didn't include was we all didn't buy a Oilhead for the computerized sensors, fly-by-wire canbus and sophisticated engine controls.
We are the computer, and in the computer industry, we aren't software, we are wetware

 

[pauls1150]

The wetter the better! (No wonder they tell me, "Paul, you're all wet...")
Instead of 3500 in 3rd and no load, try it at about 2500 to 3000, in second or third, and up a slight incline - if it's not "good enuf" balanced. it will be more likely to show up at lower throttle openings with a load.

 

[tibork]

Here is my 1994 RS synchronized by my mechanic, who is a BMW master mechanic: