-
Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password. If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?
1977 R100s
- Thread starter EMSimon
- Start date
hobbywhore
New member
I've got a 1977 R100S and in '77 the bikes came with spoke wheels. I believe in 1978, the snowflake cast wheels were installed as standard equipment.
Lots of nice brochures and pictures from 1977 and 1978 on this page.
http://www.omnilex.com/public/bmw78/
You can look at the last pages of the brochures to see what was offered. However, it came down to what the buyer and dealer might work out. Thus, some things might be changed around in order for the deal to get done. There's what the brochure says and there's what actually drove off the lot.
http://www.omnilex.com/public/bmw78/
You can look at the last pages of the brochures to see what was offered. However, it came down to what the buyer and dealer might work out. Thus, some things might be changed around in order for the deal to get done. There's what the brochure says and there's what actually drove off the lot.
Nice workshop!!
As for other things, probably lube the tranny input splines just so you know their current state. Also the rear wheel splines should be looked at and lubed. Change the fork fluids. Maybe clean and flush the tank.
A lot of this is just so you have a baseline for the future.
Another thing, though this is a personal matter...your fork tubes are exposed and any rocks, bugs, etc., could possibly nick them creating problems with the seals. You could consider accordion fork boots as a way to protect them. My /7 comes with them...of course some models didn't and look a bit cleaner...
As for other things, probably lube the tranny input splines just so you know their current state. Also the rear wheel splines should be looked at and lubed. Change the fork fluids. Maybe clean and flush the tank.
A lot of this is just so you have a baseline for the future.
Another thing, though this is a personal matter...your fork tubes are exposed and any rocks, bugs, etc., could possibly nick them creating problems with the seals. You could consider accordion fork boots as a way to protect them. My /7 comes with them...of course some models didn't and look a bit cleaner...
krehmkej
Airhead
I would definitely bleed the brakes, get rid of that old fluid. Also closely inspect the master cylinder for leaks. In the electrics, pay particular attention to the connectors on the relay(s). Corrosion there can cause some big problems. Also don't neglect the steering head bearings. probably the 30 year old hardened grease in there.
S
sumran
Guest
I am not sure if the motorcycle or the workshp is producing the drool.
I would add steering head bearings to the list.
I would add steering head bearings to the list.
O
orbitangel
Guest
NICE Bike!!!
My 2 cents worth, FWIW...
In my own view the Dyna III ignition is a TOTAL POS and always has been.
I will be happy to explain why for and how come...
I bought one of these things waaay back when they first hit the market and were being hyped like crazy in full-truck ads in all the cycle rags. I bit.
My nearly-new '77 R100RS was running just fine on points but I liked the "concept" of electronic ignition. I installed the Dyna III. The problems began before I ever turned the key. There was no mounting scheme for the "box" provided (they didn't engineer one) so you mount it anyplace you can where the skinny wires will reach. (OK, there is a hose clamp.) I have long forgotten the connectivity scheme (this was '79 or so) but I managed to get everything connected. The timing plate and rotor are soft plastic things and begin to distort and warp the instant you start tightening the screws (don't try to get them tight, you will embed the screws in the soft plastic.) When I started the engine, I couldn't believe the difference! The formerly smooth-running engine was completely erratic. The timing light showed the timing to be all over the place. It just ran like crap. None of my efforts did anything to improve this. Finally, In disgust, I took it all out and threw it in the garbage, where it belongs.
Later, I learned that BMW riders who knew what they were doing were all running "Camtron" ignitions which had a metal timing plate, a metal "butterfly" timing disk which slipped-on in place of the advance unit and a potted module inside a nice aluminum heat sink (still no mounting scheme) but those things worked perfectly. Mine eventually died and I have not seen or heard of these things for years.
My current '77RS (6180260) had a Dyna III installed when I bought it. It was the FIRST thing to come off and go into the trash! Points are not perfect but they are light years ahead of a poorly designed ignition. They are super-simple to change and/or adjust and very reliable. They degrade very slowly. Unlike an electronic 'gee-whiz' box, they (usually) won't just die and leave you stranded.
There is a lot more I could say about the D-III ignition but I'll close with this:
I don't care what anybody else does, I would not put one of those crappy things on my lawn mower. One man's opinion.
PS You STOLE that S-Model. I hate you.
My 2 cents worth, FWIW...
In my own view the Dyna III ignition is a TOTAL POS and always has been.
I will be happy to explain why for and how come...
I bought one of these things waaay back when they first hit the market and were being hyped like crazy in full-truck ads in all the cycle rags. I bit.
My nearly-new '77 R100RS was running just fine on points but I liked the "concept" of electronic ignition. I installed the Dyna III. The problems began before I ever turned the key. There was no mounting scheme for the "box" provided (they didn't engineer one) so you mount it anyplace you can where the skinny wires will reach. (OK, there is a hose clamp.) I have long forgotten the connectivity scheme (this was '79 or so) but I managed to get everything connected. The timing plate and rotor are soft plastic things and begin to distort and warp the instant you start tightening the screws (don't try to get them tight, you will embed the screws in the soft plastic.) When I started the engine, I couldn't believe the difference! The formerly smooth-running engine was completely erratic. The timing light showed the timing to be all over the place. It just ran like crap. None of my efforts did anything to improve this. Finally, In disgust, I took it all out and threw it in the garbage, where it belongs.
Later, I learned that BMW riders who knew what they were doing were all running "Camtron" ignitions which had a metal timing plate, a metal "butterfly" timing disk which slipped-on in place of the advance unit and a potted module inside a nice aluminum heat sink (still no mounting scheme) but those things worked perfectly. Mine eventually died and I have not seen or heard of these things for years.
My current '77RS (6180260) had a Dyna III installed when I bought it. It was the FIRST thing to come off and go into the trash! Points are not perfect but they are light years ahead of a poorly designed ignition. They are super-simple to change and/or adjust and very reliable. They degrade very slowly. Unlike an electronic 'gee-whiz' box, they (usually) won't just die and leave you stranded.
There is a lot more I could say about the D-III ignition but I'll close with this:
I don't care what anybody else does, I would not put one of those crappy things on my lawn mower. One man's opinion.
PS You STOLE that S-Model. I hate you.
AnnapolisAirhead
--Tony
I'm not going to change your mind, obviously, but another man's opinion is on the opposite end of the scale. I've had excellent performance out of mine. A little fiddley to set up but it's been smooth ever since...set it and forget it. Yes, I carry the original points plate and points to convert back if necessary. I've been able to eliminate the differential timing (it was only slight to begin with) by adjusting the two pick up coils. It does rely on the original advance unit; some don't like that aspect but it works for me.
Just another opinion...
BTW...I haven't seen a model for my Briggs and Straton yet, but I'll start trolling fleabay...maybe I'll get lucky!
Yes...all BMW models came with side stands, unlike the American Iron and a few others. As for the ride-off center stand, I won't start another "round" on that discussion...I'll leave it with you to search the archives for Reynolds and ride-off stands and read what's already been posted.
Nice bike, I paid twice that for my 74
I am also sticking with points for now, but am also considering the Dyna ignition booster. Does anyone have opinions about these(ha ha)?
It sounds good to reduce voltage to the points to +-1 volt for longevity, but does it really work?
I am also sticking with points for now, but am also considering the Dyna ignition booster. Does anyone have opinions about these(ha ha)?
It sounds good to reduce voltage to the points to +-1 volt for longevity, but does it really work?
you missed the point.
thing is he said it isn't pointless! He was considering making it pointless, thereby considering the missing sidestand maybe it would be a selling point?
thing is he said it isn't pointless! He was considering making it pointless, thereby considering the missing sidestand maybe it would be a selling point?
