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1100 RT died on road

thru platinum MOA membership had tow from my driveway 60 miles away to shop. not worth taking a chance dying on road.. thanks for all suggestions.. Hall sensor will be replaced. the MOA office advised me that the bike actually had to be on roadside .. not true, which is good to know.
 
thru platinum MOA membership had tow from my driveway 60 miles away to shop. not worth taking a chance dying on road.. thanks for all suggestions.. Hall sensor will be replaced. the MOA office advised me that the bike actually had to be on roadside .. not true, which is good to know.

:thumb
Let us know if this is the cure.
May your field "collapse" more betterer.
OM
 
Hall Sensor was the problem.. put a new one in.. all good! thanks again for all suggestions.. especially trying to ride 60 miles to mechanic.
 
Hardwire Option

The other option for people stranded somewhere with an older bike that won't start and the HES is the suspected culprit is to cut both wire ends off and hard wire the HES to the wiring harness. In my case (95 R1100GS) the HES wiring was cracked at he HES side of the connector making it more obvious that the HES was the problem. I cut the connectors, hardwired (it's easy, just twist the same coloured wires together including the one from the foil insulation) wrap them with with duct tape (electrical tape if you have it, wire nuts in a pinch, just connect them somehow, for best long lasting results heat shrink them) and the bike fired up and ran as normal. I'll replace both connectors with weatherpack connectors when I rewure the harness over winter.... although I see GS Addict is in my neighbourhood so that would be a great option as well. Stuck somewhere and the HES quote is 10% the cost of the bike (I bought both my R1100's for $3000) then hardwiring might be the answer for you.

On my bike I also noted the way the wiring harness was routed put strain on the harness and connector so I re-routed the wiring harness to the HES through the space above the alternator. Maybe mine had been moved to the awkward position by previous owners or maybe that's stock, I don't know.
 
The other option for people stranded somewhere with an older bike that won't start and the HES is the suspected culprit is to cut both wire ends off and hard wire the HES to the wiring harness. In my case (95 R1100GS) the HES wiring was cracked at he HES side of the connector making it more obvious that the HES was the problem. I cut the connectors, hardwired (it's easy, just twist the same coloured wires together including the one from the foil insulation) wrap them with with duct tape (electrical tape if you have it, wire nuts in a pinch, just connect them somehow, for best long lasting results heat shrink them) and the bike fired up and ran as normal. I'll replace both connectors with weatherpack connectors when I rewure the harness over winter.... although I see GS Addict is in my neighbourhood so that would be a great option as well. Stuck somewhere and the HES quote is 10% the cost of the bike (I bought both my R1100's for $3000) then hardwiring might be the answer for you.

On my bike I also noted the way the wiring harness was routed put strain on the harness and connector so I re-routed the wiring harness to the HES through the space above the alternator. Maybe mine had been moved to the awkward position by previous owners or maybe that's stock, I don't know.

It is very important to carefully insulate all the connections. Any shorts can permanently damage the hall sensors or the Motronic itself.
Duct tape and electrical tape are not rated for the heat and are a very temporary emergency fix.
 
Can somebody post pics

Of the marking area when removing the hes sensor. Just bought mine last month with 95 thousand on her,and had It shout off twice on a cold morning ,thinking the dew overnite mite creep in.
 
You can also use a Sharpie felt tip and make a dot that is right on the junction of plate and block. Then on re-assembly, line up the halves of the dot.

However, resetting right where it was assumes it was correctly timed when last messed with. I used an LED and alligator clips to set the exact location (as described in the Oilhead Hall Sensors PDF here). The Radio Shack catalog number for the LED is still current as of spring 2017, when I bought mine.
 
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