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Smashed Spark plug...

C'mon, is this another 9L of oil too much for an oilhead or how far can you go on a bald tire?

The exhaust valve necked. If caught with a funny miss and a compression test, head off and a look see.

Months later and lots of good weigh in, it's a blown mess. What a waste of time to help determine something so simple. This one meets my criteria for my wall of shame.

The moderators on these forums must start reading the posts and determine which ones merit the volunteer effort to help us ride against the ones that post going to the junk-mail.

I wonder how many of us got the spam that followed our efforts to help a fellow rider.
 
C'mon, is this another 9L of oil too much for an oilhead or how far can you go on a bald tire?

The exhaust valve necked. If caught with a funny miss and a compression test, head off and a look see.

Months later and lots of good weigh in, it's a blown mess. What a waste of time to help determine something so simple. This one meets my criteria for my wall of shame.

The moderators on these forums must start reading the posts and determine which ones merit the volunteer effort to help us ride against the ones that post going to the junk-mail.

I wonder how many of us got the spam that followed our efforts to help a fellow rider.
Been trying to figure this on out myself :scratch
The only thing I can come up with is that DY is set to automatically subscribe to threads?
I don’t know where the spam part comes in.
OM
 
C'mon, is this another 9L of oil too much for an oilhead or how far can you go on a bald tire?

The exhaust valve necked. If caught with a funny miss and a compression test, head off and a look see.

Months later and lots of good weigh in, it's a blown mess. What a waste of time to help determine something so simple. This one meets my criteria for my wall of shame.

The moderators on these forums must start reading the posts and determine which ones merit the volunteer effort to help us ride against the ones that post going to the junk-mail.

I wonder how many of us got the spam that followed our efforts to help a fellow rider.

I am having a difficult time keeping my mouth shut. I hope I never become so all knowing and wise that I have to make a comment like this to feel good about myself.
 
C'mon, is this another 9L of oil too much for an oilhead or how far can you go on a bald tire?

The exhaust valve necked. If caught with a funny miss and a compression test, head off and a look see.

Months later and lots of good weigh in, it's a blown mess. What a waste of time to help determine something so simple. This one meets my criteria for my wall of shame.

The moderators on these forums must start reading the posts and determine which ones merit the volunteer effort to help us ride against the ones that post going to the junk-mail.

I wonder how many of us got the spam that followed our efforts to help a fellow rider.
\

The situation completely changed after post #67 - why do you make comments like that????
 
It is unfortunate that the dropped valve (and spark plug?) contributed to a destroyed piston and likely extensive engine damage. However, as pointed out in an earlier post, one likely can obtain a used engine for much less than the repair parts would cost. [it appears that BeemerBoneYard has several engines available in the $500 range.]

If the OP parts out the remaining good bits of his engine, he may recoup much of the cost. There will be shipping costs and a significant amount of labor involved. It sounds like the OP doesn't mind doing mechanical work. From personal experience I can tell you that doing such work can be rewarding (and frustrating!) and usually is a learning experience. Just remember that education isn't cheap. {And one sometimes doesn't get it exactly right the first time!}

Good Luck with this project. Take lots of pictures. Post 'em as you progress. As much as I like reading the well documented posts currently on-going about various RS restorations, I also like (and vicariously learn) from less expert experiences.
 
It is unfortunate that the dropped valve (and spark plug?) contributed to a destroyed piston and likely extensive engine damage. However, as pointed out in an earlier post, one likely can obtain a used engine for much less than the repair parts would cost. [it appears that BeemerBoneYard has several engines available in the $500 range.]

If the OP parts out the remaining good bits of his engine, he may recoup much of the cost. There will be shipping costs and a significant amount of labor involved. It sounds like the OP doesn't mind doing mechanical work. From personal experience I can tell you that doing such work can be rewarding (and frustrating!) and usually is a learning experience. Just remember that education isn't cheap. {And one sometimes doesn't get it exactly right the first time!}

Good Luck with this project. Take lots of pictures. Post 'em as you progress. As much as I like reading the well documented posts currently on-going about various RS restorations, I also like (and vicariously learn) from less expert experiences.

Thanks!
 
I am really sorry for your misfortune and hope to learn something from it for myself as well. I am just a shade tree mechanic that has rebuilt a few top end car engines but have never been into the lower end. After reading this entire thread a few times I am still unclear why the valve problem occurred which led to the piston damage. Would someone mind clarifying for this dummy. Seems things weren’t this bad until the CRC was used. Was that a contributing factor?
 
Hindsight in often 20-20. Rereading post #67, and then these latest posts and pictures it is apparent to me at least that the exhaust valve succumbed to thermal shock. Spraying a cold liquid directly into the cylinder appears to be a very bad idea. My advice = don't do it. If a dose of combustion chamber cleaner added to a tank of fuel is not sufficient then it is time to remove the head and manually remove any carbon buildup. Big carbon buildup used to be common. It is so rare today that we mostly never think about it.

It is not surprising that big "chema" can be as pernicious as big pharma. Stroll the shelves at your favorite auto parts store and you will find a can or bottle of a chemical claimed to be suitable for almost anything mechanical. My acceptable list of additives is about three: Techron fuel injector cleaner; Heet or IsoHeet water absorber; and a quality gear oil molybdenum disulfide (moly) additive. If I had a radiator leak I might use some stop leak while on the road to get the bike home. That is about it. The rest of the dozens of feet of shelving may not just hold snake oil but it predominately does, quality motor oil excepted.
 
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Paul, the thing is, the piston and valve that went boom was the opposite side from where i was spraying the CRC into the intake ... spraying right side head...left side piston and valve damage...:banghead
 
Doe R1100 engines suck valves?

This is the second R1100 engine I have heard of that sucked a valve, a failure I have associated with either hot rodded race engines or very old engine designs built pre-WWII - but never BMW bike engines. The first R1100 I knew of that sucked a valve belonged to a friend of mine and when he asked the local dealer about it was told that "it happens" to the R1100 motors (not sure if that reference included the R1150 or not), and they had repaired several valve failures. Apparently mostly cop bikes, with the mechanic's speculation that idling too long got the valves too hot. Is this something characteristic of the R1100s, and maybe R1150s?
 
While nowhere near commonplace, I have heard of several 16 valve K engines eating exhaust valves, including a friend of mine.

Frank
 
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