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24,000 mile service question

I am soon due for my 24,000 mile service.

At both the 12k and the 18k service, the dealer broke the tabs on the right front panel when removing/replacing it. Both times, they replaced it, but it was a PITA that I would like to avoid if I can.

So....is there any reason why I can't remove them myself, and leave them in my garage when I take the bike in to be serviced? It's only a 15 mile ride. I can't think of any reason not to ride the bike without those panels on, but perhaps the MOA hive mind knows more than I.

What say you, good folk?
 
Wow .... sounds like you need to find a new dealer!
I specifically let my dealer change the air filter so that I don’t risk breaking tabs. I told them this and all the broken tab stories I’ve heard .... they said the rumor broken a tab yet. I am pretty sure the only thing the top plastic needs to be removed for is the air filter at every 12k. I let them do the air filter now.
 
Wow .... sounds like you need to find a new dealer!
I specifically let my dealer change the air filter so that I don’t risk breaking tabs. I told them this and all the broken tab stories I’ve heard .... they said the rumor broken a tab yet. I am pretty sure the only thing the top plastic needs to be removed for is the air filter at every 12k. I let them do the air filter now.

Been doing all my own services on all my beemers. No broken tabs. Find a new dealer


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The dealer covered their error- twice. Sounds like it’s a dealer that doesn’t mind owning up to a mistake.
Can’t be all bad.
OM
 
Was it the same tech each time the tab where broken? You could take the bike in naked, be sure the dealership doesn't charge you for the time of removal and replacement. I do my own maintenance, it's a good thing to learn you may need some of the learned skills while out on a trip. The cost of a GS 911 pays for itself or at least it has for me.

Jay
 
A couple times I rode both of our K1200RSs to the shop with all the fairing panels removed.
360 mile round trip.
The Kansas City dealer would give me a 1/2 hour discount on labor if I brought the bikes in without the tupperware.
IMG_0038.jpg
 
I am soon due for my 24,000 mile service.

At both the 12k and the 18k service, the dealer broke the tabs on the right front panel when removing/replacing it. Both times, they replaced it, but it was a PITA that I would like to avoid if I can.

So....is there any reason why I can't remove them myself, and leave them in my garage when I take the bike in to be serviced? It's only a 15 mile ride. I can't think of any reason not to ride the bike without those panels on, but perhaps the MOA hive mind knows more than I.

What say you, good folk?

So thinking about your idea ... if YOU take all the plastic off then why not just to the air filter yourself? Like I said I am pretty sure the air filter is the ONLY read the top plastic needs to come off. All the other service items are down with the top panels attached.
 
To all those who recommended finding another dealer, I live in Las Vegas, and there is ONE dealer. My nearest options are L.A. which is four hours away or Phoenix which is about 5 hours away. Let's just say I don't have any options, so it behooves me to get along with these guys.

Who, in their defense, have always done me right.

So thanks for the good suggestions. All duly noted.
 
JVB for the WIN! I have your DVD but it's on the GS. So thanks for this! And I grew up in Falls Church. Small world. Do you have that RT DVD for sale?

The GS and RT are mechanically identical, so the GS is the base video for services, plus the YouTube bodywork video for the RT. I have bodywork videos for the GSA, RT, GS and Rallye. I am working on the R1250GSA now, post production.

Thanks,

Jim :brow
 
Tabs holding panels on are a very poor design, my 15 had broken tabs on the right side after being serviced
Dealer replaced, and my broken panel joined a large pile of other broken panels
 
DIY.

https://youtu.be/KDoeYK9tvmI

IMHO, do it all yourself.

Jim :brow

Thanks for the link, Jim. Everything is done except for the spark plugs (I lack the tool for removing the coil) and the valve check/adjustment. Waiting on an O-ring so I can do the rear drive oil change. Really appreciate that link. Couldn't have done the air filter without it.

I need tires and brake/clutch flush as well, so I'm just going to have the dealer do that and the plugs and valves. Hopefully I've saved myself enough to cover the cost of new rubber.
 
Everything is done except for the spark plugs (I lack the tool for removing the coil) and the valve check
I need tires and brake/clutch flush as well, .

No need to change the mineral oil clutch fluid.
Feeler gauge for a valve check can be found at any auto parts store.
Coil puller is fairly cheap.
Here's 3 places to buy one.

https://www.beemerboneyard.com/83300401700.html

https://smile.amazon.com/Motorcycle...DJYZTV4ACR6&psc=1&refRID=W4CQRTE69DJYZTV4ACR6

https://stores.promachdualtool.com/
 
Thanks, Lee.

I've got feeler gauges, but I was under the impression that you needed a special tool to deal with either getting or holding the engine at TDC. I forget the details. Is that incorrect?

Plus, I've never done a valve check on ones of these bikes. Not sure if I'd be comfortable without the presence of somebody who knows more about it than I do.

Same goes with the brake flush.

Want to help me do a valve check?

I'll buy the beer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Ignition coil removal tool ordered.

You guys keep going and I'll only have to have them reset the service light!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Thanks, Lee.

I've got feeler gauges, but I was under the impression that you needed a special tool to deal with either getting or holding the engine at TDC. I forget the details. Is that incorrect?

Plus, I've never done a valve check on ones of these bikes. Not sure if I'd be comfortable without the presence of somebody who knows more about it than I do.

Same goes with the brake flush.

Want to help me do a valve check?

I'll buy the beer.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Send me a plane ticket and I'll help you :)

You mentioned you have Jim's DVD. Watch the section on checking the valve clearance and you'll see no special tools need for a valve check.
I think locking the engine is only needed when you remove the cams for a clearance adjustment.
I've checked both of our bikes 2 times and so far have not needed a adjustment.
 
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