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K1200 Iridium Plugs?
- Thread starter jpdicarlo
- Start date
52184
GTRider
What problem or function are you attempting to resolve or change via the expensive IR plugs? I just bought a set for my K1300GT, $55 for four plugs at O’Reilly’s, almost double that if purchased through BMW. But that bike has plugs buried deep inside the engine and requires removal of a lot of hardware, including the radiator, in order to get at the plugs. So there, a potentially longer-life plug makes sense. Plugs on a brick-k are so accessible it seems to me you’d be better off with more frequent plug changes using less costly plugs...
Best,
DG
Best,
DG
No serious problem being experienced. Just curious about others' experiences.
If I did have to single out one desired improvement, it would probably be improved fuel economy. I've read reports of K12RS riders getting well into the 40 MPG range. Mine does 38-39 consistently. Worse when the plugs are 10k+ miles old.
On the K1200RS engine, fuel mileage is main dependent on (by importance):
(1) Motronicn ECU version: the best being the last version as installed in factory on 2004-2005 models (part number ending with 296). You will get 10 to 15% better mileage over all other Motronic version installed on K1200RS (previous ECU part number ending with either "232" , "477" or "166" between 1997 and 2003)
You can read your version either by:
- using a GS911 autoscan function
- going to dealer to read ECU data
- removing fuel-tank and the ECU unit as sticker is hidden on the other side
(2) the 2nd having most effect on fuel-mileage is state of tune of then engine (valves adjusted, good air filter, good compression, no intake air-leaks from aging rubber parts....)
(3) An aging Oxygen-Sensor (can be tested in real-time with data logging using GS911)
(4) type or riding: if you do too much "stop ang go" type of traffic, then mileage will always suffer.
(5) How gears and RPM are being used: I see way too many riders shifting or riding at too low RPM. This engine does not like constant attempt at getting up to to speed if you shift below 4500 RPM (unless in city traffic in 1 or 2nd gear). in the same line, in my opinion you should NOT cruise at constant speed (above 50 MPH) at 3000 RPM (instead keep engine between 4000 and 5000 RPM anytime you need a minimum of pulling power.
Of course, I am NOT suggesting to go at the other end of the spectrum and shift at 6000 RPM in city driving ;-)
SO... do NOT look for the "holy grail" in a spark plug swap only. It will only help "a bit" if your old spark-plugs have more than 15,000 miles already.
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