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Low Beam Replacement

royaltyl

New member
The center, low beam lamp (H7) burned out on my '16 RT and I bought a replacement bulb. Are these hard to change? My '11 RT I found impossible and took it to a dealer to get it done. Any tips? I see where it resides and it looks tough to get to.
 
There are plenty of threads around detailing frustration with the process of changing bulbs on the LC RT. I didn't find it all that difficult to do but followed some advise I had read on these very forums. I found that removing the horn (I have an aftermarket horn in place of the stock unit) and working from the top, between the fork tubes was easiest after removing the headlight cover from the bottom (just unscrews off). I guess a lot depends on the size of your hands ... I do wear a large when it comes to gloves but still didn't have any issues going from the top. I got a little scraped up but not terribly. I might even have removed or at least loosened up some of the upper plastic (speaker cover probably) to give me a little more room. The rest is done by feel. It helps to have an image of what you're working with (again, there are several available if you search the forums). Even with that, the first time I replaced mine, I put the light in upside down ... just knew it didn't feel quite secure but buttoned it all up anyway. Ended up redoing it a second time and found it didn't take me longer than 10 minutes tops.
 
I did mine from the front, sitting in a chair, after removing the horn. I used my iPhone to take a photo of the H7 bulb in place with the wire bails in place, but the power plug removed. This helped me visualize what needed to be done. I think with patience it's not all that bad. FWIW, I have XL hands with fat fingers, and arthritis in my thumbs. They were not a problem. Steady breathing with a positive, patient attitude is your friend.
 
I seem to go through bulbs like candy, and I've found working from the bottom up, sitting on the ground or low creeper stool works best for me. If I ever meet the genius that designed this I'm going to make him/her/it change 100 bike's headlight bulbs, and then maybe we'll have an easier go of it...
 
The stock bulb lasts about 10,000 sMiles, mine went a little earlier. I don't think I gave up much lighting by going with Philips Longlife EcoVision H7 Headlight Bulbs, the one in is at about 18,000 sMiles and still operating :dance

Jay
 
(2016 R1200RT) Being very new to the RT I've become aware of the fact that headlight globes blow quite regularly, but haven't lost one yet. Is it recommended by forum members to carry spares, particularly when touring?
 
(2016 R1200RT) Being very new to the RT I've become aware of the fact that headlight globes blow quite regularly, but haven't lost one yet. Is it recommended by forum members to carry spares, particularly when touring?

The H7 bulb is available just about everywhere and the the fact that one of the high beams comes on if the low blows minimizes any safety issues, so I don't bother carrying one.

Ski
 
The H7 bulb is available just about everywhere and the the fact that one of the high beams comes on if the low blows minimizes any safety issues, so I don't bother carrying one.

Ski

Thanks Ski. Is it only the H7 Low Beam that seems to blow regularly?
 
H7 low beam

About 18,000 when My RT15 went out, in Canada, at night. What a pain in the ___.
I rode home using high beam, the next day. The event was over.
Took me over 1 hour to change bulb. Just 1 clip would not release. I cut wooden 1/4 dowel with a saw. To push in on center of spring it did the trick.
Carry it in tank bag with spare bulb.
I believe the springs are bent wrong? They bottom out before they can release the hook they set in. That is why U have to push in on spring center, near the hook area to release it.
My ST 1300 has same set up. Takes a minute to change bulbs. Yes U read that right.
 
I have a '16 RT and I swapped out the original H7 at around 14K miles which had not burned out so I could learn how to do it in the controlled condition of my garage. It took me a good hour because I really wasn't clear on exactly where and how to push on each side of the retention wire clip. I put in a high performance (read: low longevity) bulb and it died in 4K miles, and the replacement bulb was a BMW branded long life H7, and it took around 10m to replace. I did it the other day again, removed and reinstalled the bulb just to see how long it would take it was maybe 5-6 minutes. So the moral is, as long as your hands aren't too big you can do it w/ no aids, no horn removal, no speaker cover removal, from the front of the bike in under 10 minutes easily once you understand exactly how it's done. I have 30K on the bike now, so about 12K on this current long life bulb. Someone posted a suggestion to always let the bike fully boot up before hitting the starter button as a means of helping prevent early H7 bulb burn out, so this is what I've done. I carry a spare w/ me on long trips even though one high beam kicks in because it's very small, and as I say, easy to install now for me.
 
I believe the springs are bent wrong? They bottom out before they can release the hook they set in. That is why U have to push in on spring center, near the hook area to release it.

My sense is that if you push ON the loops, they get stuck, in particular the 2nd side. If you push on the center area, which is arched up, you can free the loop from its metal tabbed holder.
 
spring loops

My sense is that if you push ON the loops, they get stuck, in particular the 2nd side. If you push on the center area, which is arched up, you can free the loop from its metal tabbed holder.

U got it. U just explained it a bit better. Looking it over, Spring, could it be in upside down? If U were to flip it? might work just using the loops on end of spring? Just thinking here. Or, bend the loops up more so they don't bottom out before the spring releases from hooks.
That is a Winter project. Taking the front off to get a clear shot in to area.
 
I'm currently on tour with a buddy up to MI and MN. FIrst night on the road and the low beam on my 15RT gave up (just over15k miles). I picked up a new H7 from AutoZone. I made an attempt at replacing it in the A-Z parking lot, but gave up after struggling for 45 minutes, trying to get the wire bail loose. Tonight, in the motel parking lot, I tried agan. 2nd time was the charm! I had it replaced in less than 10 minutes, working by touch from the front, (sitting on the pavement, facing the bike). I didn't remove any panels or parts. I hope this one lasts at least as long.

Neither high beam lit up while the low beam was out.
 
I just did this chore last week. Like others mine went at 14k. From front reach in there and remove the cover with a half turn lefty-loosey and pull off the power connector and look at it through the forks to get an idea of how the two springs latch to hooks at bottom.

I did it from the front visualizing the assembly. Push down on the spring and swing it outwards. It's not easy. Took me a good hour start to finish.

Be sure you get the connector seated all the way down on the bulb's blades. I got intermittent "headlight out" warning lights until I went back in and re-seated.

As to the bulb don't be tempted by Silverstar super brights. They are only rated for about 85 hours per the packaging. That's not a lot for a bike.
 
I recommend Philips Vision Plus bulbs as replacements. Good output and long bulb life (300 hrs). Check out the specs here
 
I recommend Philips Vision Plus bulbs as replacements. Good output and long bulb life (300 hrs). Check out the specs here

The Sylvania Silverstar Ultra has a Kelvin Color Temperature of 4100K. The Phillips Vision Plus is 3300K. I haven't tried the Phillips Bulb, but the Silverstar color is close to matching the color of the LED "Angel Eyes." It's purely vanity on my part to have the low-beam bulb in the RT look whiter . I rarely ride at night so I'm not concerned about light output. Now that I've replaced the bulb a couple of times, it's no big deal to do it what has averaged once a year.
 
Philips makes other bulbs at other color temperatures. I just find the Vision Plus model the best combo of lumen output and longevity.
 
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