Ceramic Coated Exhaust Pipes

I would like to get some feedback from those of you who have had exhaust pipes/headers ceramic coated.

Specifically:
1) How well has the coating held up?
2) What color did you go with? i.e., chrome, shiny black, flat black etc.
3) Any recommendations on companies who do ceramic coatings?
4) Any problems that didn't surface until after the item was returned with the coating applied and you tried to reinstall the part?

I found one thread where the owner of a 1200C had the exhaust headers coated....how is it lasting??

Thanks in advance for any advice.

Eureka

I looked into it but didn't do it..

http://www.jet-hot.com/

Burnszilla said:

I looked into it but didn't do it..

http://www.jet-hot.com/

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Because???....

I have been in contact with a guy that was mentioned in a previous thread, and they sound great.

Here is a paste from the message back, the price is good in my mind for the headers and y-pipe/cat for inside and out.

The cost to coat your BMW R1150 GS header exhaust pipes inside and out with our HiPerCoat?« polished aluminum finish would be $145.00, outside only is $130.00. Colors other than polished aluminum, such as semi-gloss black, gray, blue, red, green and purple add an additional $43.50 to the coated components. Again used header pipes will be chemically, thermally and mechanically stripped before we grit blast them as prep for coating. This insures that we start with virgin metal and eliminate any carbon, combustion deposits and microscopic rust. There is a $20.00 charge for this process, but HPC guarantees against rust and corrosion for as long as you own the coated headers, regardless of whether the parts are new or used.

The site is http://www.hpcoatings.com/motorcycle.htm

Thanks for the info. I've asked them for an estimate for my 12RT

Burnszilla said:

I looked into it but didn't do it..

http://www.jet-hot.com/

Click to expand...

This stuff rules. I've had it on my G/S for about 10 years and other than the pinkish cast they've picked up courtesy of baked-on Georgia clay, the stuff is indestructible.

The process involved an acid etch and a bead blasting... which served to take off all the rust pits on my headers, then the electrocoating process.

I went with fashionable flat black, and I had also had the satin chrome done on a bike I no longer own.

I highly recommend this stuff.... but can't substantiate their HP gain claim.

Ian

On a similar thread, someone offered details, including pictures, on mods to the stock exhaust of an R1100R. Are you out there?

very happy with Jet-Hot

I am very happy with the flat black coating from Jet-Hot. Last winter I E-maile them very early on a Saturday morning and had a response by 8:30 AM. I made a preliminary deal by E-mail and told them it would be about mid to late January before I would be ready to send the headers and mufflers in. They said "no proble, 'we'll still honor the internet specisl that is running now." They were true to their word and I had my black-coated pipes back about ten days after I sent them in. I now have ~13K on the bike since re-installing the pipes and except for the expected rock chip or two, they look exactly as the day I put them on.

Visian said:

I highly recommend this stuff.... but can't substantiate their HP gain claim.

Ian

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How about temperature? I've been thinking about doing my Triumph headers which sit inside the ST fairing, as well as my Scrambler resto, if I can't get the beat up exaust pipe I have replaced.

Jet-Hot has two types of coatings; the 1300 is rated at 1300 degrees and the 2000 is rated at 2450. I seriously doubt any normal bike will even reach 1000 at the headers unless you let it sit wthout airflow to them.

Jet-Hot heat ratings

Faint red hot is around 1000F. My headers easily get there at stop lights. Dark red hot is somewhere around 1200-1300F and I've seen that before. If I was to coat my headers, I wouldn't use the 1000F or the 1300F stuff.

cruisin said:

Jet-Hot has two types of coatings; the 1300 is rated at 1300 degrees and the 2000 is rated at 2450. I seriously doubt any normal bike will even reach 1000 at the headers unless you let it sit wthout airflow to them.

Jet-Hot heat ratings

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Approx 1800 degrees is forge hot for pig iron, 1900-2000 for carbon steel (going from memory, it's been a long time since I've put hammer to steel). Titanium starts to glow dull red, but isn't able to bend under a hammer yet.

Anybody reaching THOSE temperatures on a bike will have a lot more problems than discolored ceramics :=)

Belg said:

Approx 1800 degrees is forge hot for pig iron, 1900-2000 for carbon steel (going from memory, it's been a long time since I've put hammer to steel). Titanium starts to glow dull red, but isn't able to bend under a hammer yet.

Anybody reaching THOSE temperatures on a bike will have a lot more problems than discolored ceramics :=)

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I'm not sure I understand your post?

Here is a link to color temperatures:

http://hypertextbook.com/facts/2000/StephanieLum.shtml

On my oilheads, the headers do glow a faint red at idle. You can't see it during the day but you can see it at night. The color of the glow tells you the temperature of the object. The only point I wanted to make is the lower temperature coatings may not be suitable.

ssls6 said:

I'm not sure I understand your post?

Here is a link to color temperatures:

http://hypertextbook.com/facts/2000/StephanieLum.shtml

On my oilheads, the headers do glow a faint red at idle. You can't see it during the day but you can see it at night. The color of the glow tells you the temperature of the object. The only point I wanted to make is the lower temperature coatings may not be suitable.

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Correct, however the temperatures they are 'protecting against' are double what you would ever see on a bike... way, way, WAY beyond the melt temperature of the engine and everything attached to it. If the lower temperatures are over 1200F, you should be more than coverred.

Incidentally, those numbers posted for color/temp are a bit low judging by my forging references... metal-depending of course.... but the majority of metals get those glow states a few hundred degrees higher. Maybe if I get bored at some point, I'll do a metal-based comparison color chart based on Jim Hrisoulas' texts... guy's got a PHD in Mettalurgy, and is a master smith. Made the sword the US Ambassador presented to the King? of Finland during the Nogano Olympics....

ssls6 said:

. . .
. . . The only point I wanted to make is the lower temperature coatings may not be suitable.

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I guess time will tell, because I have now driven the cruiser in the pic above 12772 miles with the 1300 degree coating with absolutely no signs of cracking, peeling, bubbling or discoloring. I drive about 80% of my miles on the open hiways but enough in town that if sitting at a stop light were going to heat it to the point of ruining the finish, it should have happened by now. I'll give to Jet-Hot coatings.