I found a replacement for mine at the Caterpillar dealer. They are always my first stop for O-rings. Top quality and a tremendous selection. A replacement fixed my misty leak and oiled trouser leg/boot top.
-
Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password. If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?
-
Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.
The Election forum is here: Election Forum
1100 Oilheads, leakers at oil fill cap.
- Thread starter dieselyoda
- Start date
I found a replacement for mine at the Caterpillar dealer. They are always my first stop for O-rings. Top quality and a tremendous selection. A replacement fixed my misty leak and oiled trouser leg/boot top.
achilles8857
New member
Road Fix??
Somewhat of a newb here, this forum is proving to be a godsend.
I'm on a long distance road trip now and noticed this leak on my R1150R for the first time since buying the bike (which was at 37K miles). Annoying issue but not enough of a problem to sabotage the trip.
Changed the oil just before setting out and thought some kind of operator error was involved in causing the leak. That seems not to be case, so there is some relief especially with these proposed fixes.
In any case, question is: could that insert (I believe BMW refers to it as the Filler Pipe) and the O rings be safely removed and replaced without removing the valve cover? Reason being, on the road I may not have access to a garage out of the elements where I can do a proper job, but could muster some clean gas, alcohol, and the sealant. I've got the tools; I plan to go with one of the aftermarket kits when back at home base and would like to do just enough to get there. I've got 2500+ miles to go. I don't want to risk damage the insert while on the road, which would force downtime I don't really have.
This is actually a fairly common (but usually minor) malady...
The full fix is to also replace AND SEAL the plastic insert.
Go to your friendly local trusted dealer (yeah, we know...) and get a New insert & its O-ring. (Or buy it over the 'net from Max/etc...)
Next time you have the valve cover off, pry out the old insert, and chemically clean the groove that it fits into and the surrounding area. Use gas followed by alcohol, then thoroughly dry it.
View how the new insert and its O-ring will fit, but BEFORE you push them in:
Lightly coat the O-ring, its groove, and the mating surface of the insert with High temperature silicone sealant (RTV/etc.). Use the high-temp version not just for the heat, but because it also bonds better and withstands oil better.
Install the pieces into place quickly and firmly. A bunch of the sealant should squeeze out of the pieces. Wipe off "most" of it... but leave a little margin, pushing a little back into the plastic-to-metal gaps also. Wipe it again, lightly, when you are satisfied that you have full coverage but no excess to come off later.
Let it dry at least overnight, and that "should" fix it forever.
And as long as the cover is off, look at the boss where the filler cap meets the big screw that holds down the valve cover. If there are any sharp edges right there, they will shorten the life of the cone-shaped rubber grommet that seals that screw, so lightly sand or file the edges smooth.
re cap theft - any city that has low-lifes... they even got snatched from the showroom...
Somewhat of a newb here, this forum is proving to be a godsend.
I'm on a long distance road trip now and noticed this leak on my R1150R for the first time since buying the bike (which was at 37K miles). Annoying issue but not enough of a problem to sabotage the trip.
Changed the oil just before setting out and thought some kind of operator error was involved in causing the leak. That seems not to be case, so there is some relief especially with these proposed fixes.
In any case, question is: could that insert (I believe BMW refers to it as the Filler Pipe) and the O rings be safely removed and replaced without removing the valve cover? Reason being, on the road I may not have access to a garage out of the elements where I can do a proper job, but could muster some clean gas, alcohol, and the sealant. I've got the tools; I plan to go with one of the aftermarket kits when back at home base and would like to do just enough to get there. I've got 2500+ miles to go. I don't want to risk damage the insert while on the road, which would force downtime I don't really have.
Leaking cap
Had the usual little leaks got the new o-rings and plastic seat thing fixed it for a while , got new o-rings from dealer misplaced them, found that if I take clean shop towel and wipe cap and o-ring well and wipe seat that cap sits on well usually doesn't leak. However if you go for a ride in your new roadcrafter or any other expensive pants my bike will put its brand on them
Had the usual little leaks got the new o-rings and plastic seat thing fixed it for a while , got new o-rings from dealer misplaced them, found that if I take clean shop towel and wipe cap and o-ring well and wipe seat that cap sits on well usually doesn't leak. However if you go for a ride in your new roadcrafter or any other expensive pants my bike will put its brand on them
achilles8857
New member
Mate I hit that link and came up dry. Did a bit of searching on Bob's but w/o luck.They still making that part?
Can you help with a stock or part no.?
Thanks much.
happy wanderer
Day Dreaming ...
Hi and welcome to the forum. Just wanted to point out that the link for that part was posted almost four years ago. I suggest you contact Bob's BMW or the original poster to get more info. It may not be available any longer.
I've never had issues with the oil fill cap leaking once I discovered the _inner_ O Ring was the problem and not the one on the actual cap. Prying out the bottom part, cleaning the valve cover and replacing the inner O Ring stopped oil from seeping through and now that I am aware of it I take it at every oil change, clean it all out because dirt and dust does migrate in there which is what seems to cause the leaking. I also lube ALL my O Rings now with Red Rubber Grease which helps keep them supple much longer.
SULLY
New member
Installing the insert
My '97 RT has been leaking a bit for 30K miles, so I bought a new insert/cap and an o-ring for the old cap last year. New o-ring on the old cap didn't help, so while I have the valve covers off for valve adjustment I popped off the old insert but holy cow I can't get that new insert in place. I've lost a bit of hand strength over the years, but geez!
Am I doing something wrong or do I need to enlist implements of construction to finish this job? I had oiled the o-ring prior to install but it only gets halfway into place. I'll try the RTV as lube tomorrow unless I hear something better (and I'll look for that red veggie-based concoction I read about here, too).
This is actually a fairly common (but usually minor) malady...
The full fix is to also replace AND SEAL the plastic insert.
Go to your friendly local trusted dealer (yeah, we know...) and get a New insert & its O-ring. (Or buy it over the 'net from Max/etc...)
Next time you have the valve cover off, pry out the old insert, and chemically clean the groove that it fits into and the surrounding area. Use gas followed by alcohol, then thoroughly dry it.
View how the new insert and its O-ring will fit, but BEFORE you push them in:
Lightly coat the O-ring, its groove, and the mating surface of the insert with High temperature silicone sealant (RTV/etc.). Use the high-temp version not just for the heat, but because it also bonds better and withstands oil better.
Install the pieces into place quickly and firmly. A bunch of the sealant should squeeze out of the pieces. Wipe off "most" of it... but leave a little margin, pushing a little back into the plastic-to-metal gaps also. Wipe it again, lightly, when you are satisfied that you have full coverage but no excess to come off later.
Let it dry at least overnight, and that "should" fix it forever.
And as long as the cover is off, look at the boss where the filler cap meets the big screw that holds down the valve cover. If there are any sharp edges right there, they will shorten the life of the cone-shaped rubber grommet that seals that screw, so lightly sand or file the edges smooth.
re cap theft - any city that has low-lifes... they even got snatched from the showroom...
My '97 RT has been leaking a bit for 30K miles, so I bought a new insert/cap and an o-ring for the old cap last year. New o-ring on the old cap didn't help, so while I have the valve covers off for valve adjustment I popped off the old insert but holy cow I can't get that new insert in place. I've lost a bit of hand strength over the years, but geez!
Am I doing something wrong or do I need to enlist implements of construction to finish this job? I had oiled the o-ring prior to install but it only gets halfway into place. I'll try the RTV as lube tomorrow unless I hear something better (and I'll look for that red veggie-based concoction I read about here, too).
gsaddict
Pepperfool
This is actually a fairly common (but usually minor) malady...
The full fix is to also replace AND SEAL the plastic insert.
Go to your friendly local trusted dealer (yeah, we know...) and get a New insert & its O-ring. (Or buy it over the 'net from Max/etc...)
Next time you have the valve cover off, pry out the old insert, and chemically clean the groove that it fits into and the surrounding area. Use gas followed by alcohol, then thoroughly dry it.
View how the new insert and its O-ring will fit, but BEFORE you push them in:
Lightly coat the O-ring, its groove, and the mating surface of the insert with High temperature silicone sealant (RTV/etc.). Use the high-temp version not just for the heat, but because it also bonds better and withstands oil better.
Install the pieces into place quickly and firmly. A bunch of the sealant should squeeze out of the pieces. Wipe off "most" of it... but leave a little margin, pushing a little back into the plastic-to-metal gaps also. Wipe it again, lightly, when you are satisfied that you have full coverage but no excess to come off later.
Let it dry at least overnight, and that "should" fix it forever.
And as long as the cover is off, look at the boss where the filler cap meets the big screw that holds down the valve cover. If there are any sharp edges right there, they will shorten the life of the cone-shaped rubber grommet that seals that screw, so lightly sand or file the edges smooth.
re cap theft - any city that has low-lifes... they even got snatched from the showroom...
This is a proven fix for the base. No parts needed.
I use Permatex
https://www.permatex.com/products/g...igid-high-torque-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker-2/
