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Clutch Change

rtwoody

rtwoody

New member
I have the new clutch parts en route from Max BMW just wondering if there are any other sundry items I should have on hand before I start,
this will be my first crack at this and I could use any extra advice you are willing to part with. my ride is a 1998 R1100RT
Thanks in advance
 
RTWoody said:
I have the new clutch parts en route from Max BMW just wondering if there are any other sundry items I should have on hand before I start,
this will be my first crack at this and I could use any extra advice you are willing to part with. my ride is a 1998 R1100RT
Thanks in advance
Click to expand...

BEER before and after!
 
Hi Rod:

Did you get a clutch kit?
The entire clutch not just the friction disk?
Did you get new bolts to replace the single use bolts you'll be removing?

Do you have a tool for getting the new clutch aligned?

I haven't done this either, just read about it.
 
Clutch

It is pretty straight forward. The only 'special' tools you need are something to lock the clutch housing ('flywheel') in place while torquing the bolts, and a degree wheel to measure the 31 degree (maybe 32 degree??? I forget) additional torque you need to put on the bolts. A calibrated eyeball may be sufficient if you are a troglodyte...
You will also need to hold the clutch housing in place while you remove the bolts. I used an air impact to get them loose, but if you don't have that luxury, you will have to lock the housing down, because they are REALLLLLLY snug.
You also must have patience, perseverence, and a lust for adventure.
 
While in there do your spline lube (grease), replace the slave cylinder, if applicable the felt for the clutch throw out rod and any seals that may apply or show deterioration/leaks. There are several threads I have listed to perform the spline lube which you may want to refer to while tearing the bike down.

http://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?t=58350
 
MotorradMike said:
Hi Rod:

Did you get a clutch kit?
The entire clutch not just the friction disk?
Did you get new bolts to replace the single use bolts you'll be removing?

Do you have a tool for getting the new clutch aligned?

I haven't done this either, just read about it.
Click to expand...


Did you get new bolts to replace the single use bolts you'll be removing?

Do you have a tool for getting the new clutch aligned?

I have done it and you should get new bolts and the use of an alignment tool. Plus check the rear seal.
 
A can of degreaser, Plenty of paper towels, a digital camera would be invaluable for rebuilding reference and label whatever you are not sure of and then just label everything anyway because there will be head scratching if you do not get back to it straight away which is inherently going to happen. A sharpie I found worked well to reference a date inside the case for the mileage marker when performed.
 
thanks for the responses guys
yes i have ordered all the tools and bolts and new everything but the fly wheel
 
I wish we were neighbors as I'm getting my same parts in a week or so to do the exact same job. The guys at Max said if I wanted to replace seals I should get them all for the tranny (including the felt piece) and I think they mentioned there are 2 (TWO) rear main seals? Can anyone confirm there are 2 that should be replaced? I'm also going to change out the clutch cable and any other cables that are frayed. Lubing the spline is a given considering I don't think it's ever been done and I have 110K on the bike.

I guess we can compare notes. Best of luck!:wave
 
clutch

"...they mentioned there are 2 (TWO) rear main seals..."
One seal on old bikes. Two seals for 12/97 and newer.

You don't need a 'clutch centering tool'. An appropriately sized (i.e. it fits inside the clutch center) socket and the push rod wrapped with duck tape (so it centers itself inside the socket) works just fine.

Just so you know: 12/97 they changed the clutch parts, and they will NOT coexist with parts from the earlier bikes. The flywheel (clutch housing) is included in that fitment situation. You are probably going to receive parts for the post-12/97 bikes, since the older parts are (probably) all gone by now from the parts stream.
 
If you have a haywire type clutch centering tool, keep the clutch lever pulled in all the while the transmission is being tightened to the engine.

Just so there isn't any locked in misalignment force between the transmission and the engine.
 
nrpetersen said:
If you have a haywire type clutch centering tool, keep the clutch lever pulled in all the while the transmission is being tightened to the engine.

Just so there isn't any locked in misalignment force between the transmission and the engine.
Click to expand...

I was thinking this exactly, and composing a post in my mind, of course giving you the credit, when I saw yours.

Seems to me, a proper clutch alignment tool should be passed around amongst the members. No point in all of us owning one that gets used once and then just takes up space.

Tool loan database. Hmmmmm
 
nrpetersen said:
If you have a haywire type clutch centering tool, keep the clutch lever pulled in all the while the transmission is being tightened to the engine.

Just so there isn't any locked in misalignment force between the transmission and the engine.
Click to expand...

OK, thats funny.
Does Hayco make these tools?
 
well new clutch is in and bike is starting to go back together, splines were perfect no signs of wear, can't say the same for the clutch disk .
I'll finish it up tomorrow and then test ride time.
Brandy time now
 

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New clutch in, bike back together almost, just have to pickup the mounting rubbers for the exhaust system that got destroyed during disassembly, test ride sucessful although a little short due to weather here. the bike hooks up really well now.
thanks to all that offered advice
 
Well apparently they don't use those mounting points anymore so oil change done and bodywork all back on and off for a few rides
everything looks good so far
Lets go riding
 
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