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Another RS Project

Tank you Tony, I can't keep those rubber boots in place, I might change for gaiters.

Still looking for the Brembo fork sliders.

Hi,
I can't help you with parts, but when I had my '81 R100RT, 2 '84 R100RS's and '95 R100RT, I put 3 or 4 drops of glue on the boots and glued them to the fairing. It wasn't enough glue so I couldn't remove them if necessary nor enough to destroy the boots while removing them, but it was enough that they stayed in place. I did get tired of replacing fork seals, though, and finally mounted gaiters.
 
Hi,
I can't help you with parts, but when I had my '81 R100RT, 2 '84 R100RS's and '95 R100RT, I put 3 or 4 drops of glue on the boots and glued them to the fairing. It wasn't enough glue so I couldn't remove them if necessary nor enough to destroy the boots while removing them, but it was enough that they stayed in place. I did get tired of replacing fork seals, though, and finally mounted gaiters.


Thank you Phil,

I think I will go with gaiters too.
 
Hassan, Bob's sells both 11 and 13 ribbed gators. I went with the 11 ribbed ones and glad I did. They both fit the same length, but the 11's are stretched out just a bit, so plenty of room when turning without any rubbing.

It's an exercise in patience getting the clamps onto the lower, forkslider end. I think I actually invented a few new swear words before the dust had settled.
 
HaHa

Hassan, Bob's sells both 11 and 13 ribbed gators. I went with the 11 ribbed ones and glad I did. They both fit the same length, but the 11's are stretched out just a bit, so plenty of room when turning without any rubbing.

It's an exercise in patience getting the clamps onto the lower, forkslider end. I think I actually invented a few new swear words before the dust had settled.

Yes, it is even more fun when you have a cast ATKstyle fork brace across there!
 
bad seats

Between work and waiting for parts I have moved pretty slow in this past couple weeks, project is coming along fine and taking my time to make sure all is put back to where it belongs! Even though I have label all the bags getting the right screw or washer to the same location is close to impossible and find myself going back to ACE to pick up new screws washers and what not to button thins thing up.

I received my heads back from the shop today and after checking the seats I found that the right exhaust was leaking so another week or so before I can finish the top ends.

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

What was your method for checking the seats?
Did they use new BMW valves, or aftermarket?
Seems amazing the shop did not check them first - but at least they are fixing it.

Not sure if you have Lowes there, but they sell a fair assortment of bagged metric hardware. Including metric wave washer, which work so much better than the split style. I have taken to buying bags of especially the wave washers, nuts, and nyloc nuts. Along with other typical screw sizes. This practice has been a huge time saver for me!
 
What was your method for checking the seats?
Did they use new BMW valves, or aftermarket?
Seems amazing the shop did not check them first - but at least they are fixing it.

Not sure if you have Lowes there, but they sell a fair assortment of bagged metric hardware. Including metric wave washer, which work so much better than the split style. I have taken to buying bags of especially the wave washers, nuts, and nyloc nuts. Along with other typical screw sizes. This practice has been a huge time saver for me!

To check the seats I use Carb cleaner in the chamber.

My ACE hardware store carries far more stuff than our Lowes, this store is well stocked with metric washers, nuts, bolts and my fav, well nuts! I use them on my rice burn machines.
 
Hassan, Bob's sells both 11 and 13 ribbed gators. I went with the 11 ribbed ones and glad I did. They both fit the same length, but the 11's are stretched out just a bit, so plenty of room when turning without any rubbing.

It's an exercise in patience getting the clamps onto the lower, forkslider end. I think I actually invented a few new swear words before the dust had settled.

I bet! you have to teach me those words once I get my gaiters.
 
So you just hold the head, rocker side down, put carb cleaner in the valve area, and see if it comes out the other side?

Yes! In the old days, I did it with gasoline, and still would today if I needed to do that check. But carb cleaner seems to work, too. With the valves closed, you don't want any wetness on the rocker side ofthe valves. If it is wet, the head is not ready to be put onto the engine. The valves need to be lapped, at the least.
 
Yes! In the old days, I did it with gasoline, and still would today if I needed to do that check. But carb cleaner seems to work, too. With the valves closed, you don't want any wetness on the rocker side ofthe valves. If it is wet, the head is not ready to be put onto the engine. The valves need to be lapped, at the least.

Seems like something a shop should do before allowing work to leave. Although it is always best to check things for yourself, anyway.
 
So you just hold the head, rocker side down, put carb cleaner in the valve area, and see if it comes out the other side?


What I do is put carb cleaner or gasoline in the chamber area, the chamber is with the carb and exhaust connect to the head, if you see any liquid on the valve seat then you have a leak, this is called the poor man test.
 
Seems like something a shop should do before allowing work to leave. Although it is always best to check things for yourself, anyway.


Always test or check what a shop does, I learn my lesson many years back when a shop left the rear tire shaft bolt loose, no damage was done but that was the time that made me think twice about bringing the bike back to that shop and double check any work they do.
 
Always test or check what a shop does, I learn my lesson many years back when a shop left the rear tire shaft bolt loose, no damage was done but that was the time that made me think twice about bringing the bike back to that shop and double check any work they do.

When I refreshed my pancone last year, I had a shop remove the primary and reinstall... when I got it up again, I was riding it, and as time went on (we're talking less than a hundred miles) the clutch started slipping, and at the same time, the adjustment moved... turns out that the mechanic either didn't properly tighten the clutch basket bolts, or didn't use LocTite on 'em...or both... Very annoying...I wound up removing each bolt, shooting carb choke cleaner on the threads to clean 'em, and used LocTite 242 on 'em...no problems since...

We shouldn't have to do this sort of thing guys, but it just seems like we gotta supervise the people that we PAY to do our work for us...I hate to be a nosy customer, or an OCD customer, but anymore, that's the onliest way that I make sure things are done right...a lotta times, I KNOW how to do the job, it's just more expeditious, for one reason or another, to have someone do the work... In the case I just outlined, I chose to have a shop do the work rather than buy the special tools, since in 35+ years of Harley ownership, I've never had occasion to use those tools...I can damn well assure ya that the next time I need my primary taken apart, I'll buy those tools my own self and down my own damn work!! And I WON'T buy the tools from that shop!
 
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