B
bmdubyou
Guest
then theres the issue of shortening the side stand and center stands. I dont understand why beemers have to be so tall. one would think with the design of the engine that it would be able to be much shorter!
Follow along with the video below to see how to install our site as a web app on your home screen.
Note: This feature may not be available in some browsers.
'98 RT, but I don't think there were changes to frame with 1150's.
I lowered mine 1" with Wilbers shocks.
I bought a used sidestand and had it cut.
When you cut your side stand did you get comcerned about the measurments or did you just take one inch off? I am about to add do the same to mine and I ask as with lower shorter shocks you are not lowering the bike lower to the ground as much as you are lowering the seat/upper frame relative to the swingarm. that does not translate to the same in ground clearance.
then theres the issue of shortening the side stand and center stands. I dont understand why beemers have to be so tall. one would think with the design of the engine that it would be able to be much shorter!
'98 RT, but I don't think there were changes to frame with 1150's.
I am about to add do the same to mine and I ask as with lower shorter shocks you are not lowering the bike lower to the ground as much as you are lowering the seat/upper frame relative to the swingarm. that does not translate to the same in ground clearance.
shorter/lowered shocks will cause the entire bike to drop down. the wheels stay the same (obviously), but then EVERYTHING else comes down to meet the swingarm.
to wit: at least 3 different length shocks have been offered on the R1100S, in combination with 2 different torque arm lengths (the shorter 365mm torque arm that comes on the GS will raise a R11S about an inch). 2 different length sidestands are also available to complement those different shock options.
however, the 11S mounts the swingarm pivot differently than do the other models, and that "might" play into the situation... but i tend to doubt it. we went with the lowering links on my g/f's KLR, and had to slice about 2" off the sidestand to compensate for the drop in overall height.
'98 RT, but I don't think there were changes to frame with 1150's.
I lowered mine 1" with Wilbers shocks.
I bought a used sidestand and had it cut.
When you cut your side stand did you get comcerned about the measurments or did you just take one inch off? I am about to add do the same to mine and I ask as with lower shorter shocks you are not lowering the bike lower to the ground as much as you are lowering the seat/upper frame relative to the swingarm. that does not translate to the same in ground clearance.
I marked the floor where the SS hit and had a friend hold the bike at the desired angle (~10 degrees). I pulled a string from the SS pivot to the center of the mark. The SS is bent, so I tried to compensate. Now that I think about it, I might have used some stiff wire to replicate the bend.)I had a 7/8" section cut out of the lower portion above the foot, as I didn't want to disturb the weld and reinforcement on the foot itself.
I had the welder insert a solid rod to reinforce the weld. The SS is tapered a bit, so he filled and ground the step. I hit it with good primer and a couple coats of black enamel, making the mod. invisible.
The back edge of the foot hits the floor now, leaving an 1/8" gap at the front. Not a problem for me, but take that into acount if you use a FatFoot. Not just the thickness, but also the width.
I think cutting an inch would have been OK, but the string exercize gave me confidence before cutting up a good part.
BTW: I highly recommend lowering front and rear equally for handling reasons. Lowering the front will most certainly lower the bike. The subframe is fixed relative to everything except the swingarm. When you shorten the shock (whether a shorter shock or compressing it under load) the swingarm angle changes and the frame (subframe/seat) gets closer to the ground. With proper compression and rebound adjustment the swingarm swings to absorb abrupt changes in the roadway, while the frame height relative to the road before and after the bump stays constant. (Sorry I strayed from the sidestand topic.)
You might want to measure the lean angle when parked before removing the OEM shocks and match that angle. I didn't think ahead, but I'm happy with the results.
I've said it in other threads, and I'll say it again: putting quality shocks on that bike can make a huge difference. Is it worth the money? Depends on what you care about.