Hints for replacing clutch on R1100 GS

Well, seems it's time to replace the clutch on my GS. 85,000 miles and the clutch is slipping, mostly under 5th gear when I punch it. Also every once in a while under a load I'll get a chunk/major slippage (different then the clutch slipping) from what seems to be the rear, not sure what that is but the rpm's stay the same when that happens. Any clues?

I've replaced the clutch on my 93 K75, but I know the 95 GS is a different beast. I thought I'd follow my clymer manual, but aslo want to lube all splines as well.

Anydetailed information, links to sites etc. on doing this procedure is much appreciated!!!!!

Can I use the same guide pins for the tranny as I used on my K75?
Thanks,
Andy

Well I have an 1150 w/hydraulic clutch so not certain how much transfers to an 1100 but....
It was easier to pull the clutch pushrod out of the rear of the tranny and install after the tranny then worry about it lining up and bending it, replace the felt sleeve too.
Don't bother removing the subframe just remove bolts and pivot it up from front bolts and hold in place with a strap to the front of the frame.
push intake tubes that go to the throttle bodies into the airbox for clearance
you can remove the tranny with the swingarm and final drive attached but I took them off so I could replace pivot bearings and lube the driveshaft
Do a search there's a couple threads about R&I the tranny

Pivoting sub frame

I'm commited now. Following the Haynes Manual.....I just pushed the throttle body ducts into the air filter, book says to remove throttle bodies but I don't see why I would need to do this, is there a reason why?

I'm planning in swinging the sub frame instead of removing it...

Reading on....Do I need to remove the tailight unit, rear turn signals etc.....as it says in step 12 in the Haynes manual

whew this is gonna take a while........

Are there any detailed write ups of people doing a clutch job on a R1100 GS?

IBMWR had a great tech article for my K75......

Wow my finalk drive tapered roller bearing were shot, do I need a slide bearing puller to get them out? Any hints on getting new ones in?

Thanks,
Andy

hey andy!


i didn't pull either of my tbs when i did my clutch. i didn't really get that suggestion in the clymer manual either. its fine to leave them in place

i'm pretty sure you can also leave any of the lighting attached to your subframe on the subframe when you swing it up and out of the way. again, my S model required a more complete dismantle due to it's construction


as far as the paralever bearings are concerned, you can tap them out with an appropriately sized socket. i'm currently in the process of renewing mine with bronze busings instead of replacement bearings. i'm just gonna lightly heat the final drive and freeze the bushing races in the freezer, they should pop right in.

They just tell you to remove the lights because they figure on you removing the sub-frame, so no, no need to. Like said use an appropriate size socket to drive out the old bearing and heat the swingarm and freeze the bearing and it should drop right in. Just make sure on install not to pound on the inner race of the bearing or you'll damage them. Lube up both splined shafts on the tranny and lube the driveshaft to but make certain they're aligned properly on install.

Derek's right. Pivot the rear subframe up, without removing the lights and wiring. You'll have to loosen one of the nuts on one end of the pivot rod, and remove the other bolts which triangulate the mounting. If I remember right, it's the upper-front mount on which the subframe pivots. The subframe has to be pivoted up a lot, like 60 degrees.

Yup, just take off the minimum stuff in order to allow you to swing the rear subframe up and out of the way. I have had the tranny out of my 94 RS four times and it keeps getting easier to do. Make sure to check on the status of the rear main seal while you're in there. If the rear main is showing any leakage now is the time to replace it. I did that on my bike too.

Here's a hint. I went cheap the first time I did a clutch job at about 80,000 miles. I cleaned up the pressure plates and just bought a new friction plate. Back together and everything worked, but. The tapered wear effect (common to airheads and oilheads) on the pressure plates (which I did not know at the time) caused non-full contact between the friction plate and pressure plates. The result?
I had to do the clutch again at about 110,000 miles cause it was slippiung under load. This time I bought the whole kit.

So if you want another 80,000 miles service from the new clutch, get the entire clutch kit from BMW, friction disc and both pressure plates. I suppose if you know someone that can refinish the faces of the pressure plate you may be able to save some bucks that way. But, I suspect it would alter the clutch travel and feel.

This is a good time to replace the swing arm bearings. I just replaced mine at 116,000 miles with JL Paralever bushings, which are far better for the application than needle bearings. You will need a good torque wrench for up to 150 ft-lbs to make sure its all properly torqued. This is also the right time to properly lube all the splines. Make sure you properly phase the U-joints at reassembly.

Here's a tip that I use to re-align the drive hub spline into the driveshaft. I roll up a shop rag to support the driveshaft up at about center height in the housing. But leave a "tail" of the rag hanging out the end of the housing. Align the rear hub input spline to the driveshaft, and just as it engages, pull the rag out. You may be able to reach through the pivot pin holes to help align things.

advrider perhaps?

MusicMan said:

I'm commited now. Following the Haynes Manual.....I just pushed the throttle body ducts into the air filter, book says to remove throttle bodies but I don't see why I would need to do this, is there a reason why?

I'm planning in swinging the sub frame instead of removing it...

Reading on....Do I need to remove the tailight unit, rear turn signals etc.....as it says in step 12 in the Haynes manual

whew this is gonna take a while........

Are there any detailed write ups of people doing a clutch job on a R1100 GS?

IBMWR had a great tech article for my K75......

Wow my finalk drive tapered roller bearing were shot, do I need a slide bearing puller to get them out? Any hints on getting new ones in?

Thanks,
Andy

Click to expand...

I suggest you try www.advrider.com and see some of the stickies and hall of wisdom.

round two

replacing the transmission now with a M94. This time i have a garage!

Andy

MusicMan said:

I'm commited now. Following the Haynes Manual.....I just pushed the throttle body ducts into the air filter, book says to remove throttle bodies but I don't see why I would need to do this, is there a reason why?

I'm planning in swinging the sub frame instead of removing it...

Reading on....Do I need to remove the tailight unit, rear turn signals etc.....as it says in step 12 in the Haynes manual

whew this is gonna take a while........

Are there any detailed write ups of people doing a clutch job on a R1100 GS?

IBMWR had a great tech article for my K75......

Wow my finalk drive tapered roller bearing were shot, do I need a slide bearing puller to get them out? Any hints on getting new ones in?

Thanks,
Andy

Click to expand...

You can leave all the tail light stuff and wiring that swings up with the subframe. Throttle bodies too. You will need to remove a few wire ties and check the bundles for tension as you swing the subframe up. Generally if it looks like it has to come off it does. If it looks like it can stay, it can.

PGlaves said:

You can leave all the tail light stuff and wiring that swings up with the subframe. Throttle bodies too. You will need to remove a few wire ties and check the bundles for tension as you swing the subframe up. Generally if it looks like it has to come off it does. If it looks like it can stay, it can.

Click to expand...

To remove the paralever bearings - pry the rear half of the driveshaft forward off the input shaft. Find a socket that just fits the machined recess from the inside out. It will bear against the bearing race. Insert a 6" socket extension through from the other side. Use a heat gun or (very carefully) torch to warm the housing right around the bearing and tap it out. Repeat for the other side. I use 1/2" threaded rod, a couple of nuts, and big washers as a draw tool to put the new bearings back in. Again, heat the bearing recess and just turn the nuts to draw the bearing in straight. No pounding needed.

output shaft seals

Thanks for the info Paul.
On the transmission I'm putting in, it's an m94 with only 8,000. It has been sitting a long time. (looks brand new)

Do you think I should change the two output shaft seals on it?

if so what's the best way to go about it?

Thank you!

Andy