Spline lube 2002 1150RT

[Olsensan]

Hi all, well you convinced me to take the plunge and I have my 02 1150 RT torn down to the bone and ready to reveal the innards of the spline area. I am documenting every procedure and adding text to each pic I have taken for reference on this board so others will have an easier time than myself. I have several postings including one from Grant in oilheads ADVRIDER which is excellent but some answers are still a little vague for me. I am also referring to the BMW manual on cd for this procedure. First let me say that I want to remove the entire rear assembly from the transmission back as one unit for now. I am currently at the point of raising the rear end up and prepping to remove the transmission bolts to pull the entire unit out. Here are a few questions now, if anyone can answer them, pls chime in.

How do you remove the airbox? It seems like the rear end has to come up first.
I read that the silencer need to be removed/disconnected, where is it?
How did you get to the breather hose going into the airbox and remove it? Did you get to it from the front or rear?
The throttle cables to the throttle bodies are in the way of stuff if the rear gets raised, do they disconnect?
How much did the whole pile of .... weigh when you raised and pulled back the tranny etc?

 

[PAS]

I cant help but please keep track of the hex head and torx head tool sizes needed.
Thanks!

 

[jnrugg]

I made the mistake of taking a look at my RT when the splines were getting replaced. It was like watching an operation of a loved one.

 

[rad]

Mmmmm.......It has been a couple years since I did a clutch job/spline lube on my 1150RT. I thought the air box came out as you lifted the rear sub frame.

My beast, just a few steps past the stage you are at.

A few steps later. At this point you are convinced your bike will never run again

 

[nrpetersen]

It has to be the motorcycle equivalent to a medical pituitary gland operation (it is at the base of the brain).

 

[nrpetersen]

I'd really like to see a detailed picture of the spline area and the spline itself before you clean everything up. And what was the lube situation?

 

[Olsensan]

Hi Rad, could you post a shot of the first picture but a little more forward of where that 1st picture points? That would really help me out enormously. I see that the throttle cables were above the frame, mine are like that too and cause me great concern.

 

[bikerfish1100]

have not done my spline lube yet (had to bite the bullet, and pay for a input shaft repair instead about 20K ago), but i'd say that the easiest way to move throttle cables out of the way is to disconnect the TBs at their intake spigots, and move the TBs with cables attached. the only other alternative is to disconnect the cables at the bowden box, and that is a major pita (unless you have amazingly long and skinny fingers, and maybe 16 or 17 of them to work with).

 

[rad]

Hi Rad, could you post a shot of the first picture but a little more forward of where that 1st picture points? That would really help me out enormously. I see that the throttle cables were above the frame, mine are like that too and cause me great concern.

IÔÇÖm not sure what you mean when you state, throttle line. I will guess you are not talking about the throttle cables running from the front of the bike to the throttle bodies; those donÔÇÖt get touched at all.

I think you are talking about the fuel distributer/manifold that connects the two throttle bodies. Those lines run directly in front of the air box and the distributer and must be disconnected on both sides and removed. They are the two lines running parallel and making a 90 degree turn away from the camera. The line curving and attaching to the top of the injector is also part of that system and comes out with it.

Take photos before you do because the routing of them upon reassembly can be a bit confusing.

PS

Make sure you remove the two correct frame bolts to allow for the rear frame to pivot up. It is easy to select the wrong two your first itme. If you did mean the throttle cables, they stay put and are just fine during the pivot of the rear frame.

 

[Olsensan]

Oh, thank you, that bottom picture is what I was looking for! Have you got the same for the other side too, same location?

One other thing, what and where is the rear silencer and the gear indicator plug, (see pic below)? If one or both are in any of the pics posted, pls if possible describe the same. Thank you so much for your time spent on this.

PS I also noted that you removed the two pivot bolts in the front. The instruction sheets etc I read said to leave those in. Was it easier to raise the rear without the bolts in? I just raised the rear end about 15 degrees and I feel a lot of resistance at that point so I'm in a hold pattern now.

 

[awagnon]

How do you remove the airbox? It seems like the rear end has to come up first.
I read that the silencer need to be removed/disconnected, where is it?
How did you get to the breather hose going into the airbox and remove it? Did you get to it from the front or rear?
The throttle cables to the throttle bodies are in the way of stuff if the rear gets raised, do they disconnect?
How much did the whole pile of .... weigh when you raised and pulled back the tranny etc?

Hello, Olsensan. I've done this on my 2002 RT about four times and I wrote the checklist for the procedure you have seen circulating. Feel free to call me on my cell if you have questions. PM me for my phone number and get a copy of the checklist if you don't have it. Per your questions:

The airbox comes out the back as you raise the frame. The intake tubes to the throttlebodies must be pushed into the box. The fuel manifold will probably come with the airbox. ( be sure the injectors and controllers are disconnected.)

The throttle cables aren't a problem. Don't mess with them. They won't be in the way, kinked, or damaged if you are careful.

The silencer is the muffler. Remove it.

The breather hose is held to the right front of the airbox with an Oediker clamp. I've always had to cut the clamp with a dremmel tool and replace it with a regular hose clamp.

I don't understand your last question. The part that is raised isn't very heavy at all.

Good luck. Call me or email me if I can offer moral support.

 

[josh00]

To get the air box out as you ratched up the tail end you can get it out. The breather hose has a clamp on the hose, and if I remeber right I got it from the front. The throttle cables you don't have to remove. And I would have some guide pens to put in the two bottom bolt holes, I just used longer bolts and cut the head off them, it will make it alot eaisier and if the clutch push rod is still in you wouldn't bend it. The tranny don't weigh much maybe 40 or 50 pounds. I would take the back end all apart to make sure the shaft splines are lubed, Glad I did because mine needed it at 42k miles. Take the two frame bolts all the way out on the both sides and their is one under the servo system just loosen it. Just keep going pushing forward, after I did it I realized it wasn't that hard just time consuming. And a great encouragement on anything else I might have to do.

 

[rad]

Oh, thank you, that bottom picture is what I was looking for! Have you got the same for the other side too, same location?

One other thing, what and where is the rear silencer and the gear indicator plug, (see pic below)? If one or both are in any of the pics posted, pls if possible describe the same. Thank you so much for your time spent on this.

Gear indicator disconnect!!!! That was the worst part of the entire project for me. Follow the wire up from the starter area and see where it wraps around then unwrap it, and snake it back out. Well, that is the theory; I gave up on mine. My partner in crime regarding this job, dbrick on this site can tell you what I did. I CUT THE DAMN WIRES! I then of course had to solder on connectors for each of the wires I cut in the harness (4 I think) and shrink wrap them all together. I suggest you not do it how I did. Mine did work out fine

 

[josh00]

I just seen your picture you posted olsensan. The 3rd bolt that you want to loosen to the frame is just above the #1 in your picture and to the left it is the nut you can see. And as awagnon said it is good to have a check list, If you don't have one I would get one.

 

[Olsensan]

Here is an update. I have several procedures and the BMW manual so I am not lacking that. Looking at post #9 from Rad, 2nd pic, the allen bolt was removed, that is the pivot point or the strut fastener. The books say to loosen not remove it. Mine are just loosened and I am experiencing some resistance as I said before. I have to goo and poke around finding where that freakin gear indicator connector is. Where are the terminating points for the gear indicator wire? I have to find and tracxe this before I rip it apart(not Good)

Hey Josh where is the 3rd you speak of here:

Take the two frame bolts all the way out on the both sides and their is one under the servo system just loosen it.

Do you mean the 2 forward bolts that are the pivot point? Where under the servo system? Can you refer to any of the other pics above for reference?

Thanks Awagnon, I have 2 procedures, I believe I have yours too, I will double check

 

[awagnon]

Here is an update. I have several procedures and the BMW manual so I am not lacking that. Looking at post #9 from Rad, 2nd pic, the allen bolt was removed, that is the pivot point or the strut fastener. The books say to loosen not remove it. Mine are just loosened and I am experiencing some resistance as I said before.

The actual pivot point is the bolt with nuts on both ends which is located just above the front frame bolts with allen heads. Loosen the nuts but do not remove them. The frame will pivot around them after you remove the four allen bolts.

 

[Olsensan]

Guess what? I'm now screwed. I removed the pivot allen bolts but did not loosen the bolts above it. When ratcheting the strap to bring up the rear end, those metal tabs welded to the frame part just got the crap bent out of them. Using the strap, it is not possible to feel the resistance as easily as if I had just lifted the rear by hand to make sure no resistance is felt. Big note for my notes. At this point I'm calling it an evening, its 10 pm. If I can't get them bent back correctly, I'll have to remove the entire ass end, that will entail dropping the fuse box if that is even possible. I am not very happy. I'm trying to think about what kind of tool I can use to apply pressure like a vice grip that can press the tabs straight. SOB!

 

[rad]

Guess what? I'm now screwed. I removed the pivot allen bolts but did not loosen the bolts above it. When ratcheting the strap to bring up the rear end, those metal tabs welded to the frame part just got the crap bent out of them. Using the strap, it is not possible to feel the resistance as easily as if I had just lifted the rear by hand to make sure no resistance is felt. Big note for my notes. At this point I'm calling it an evening, its 10 pm. If I can't get them bent back correctly, I'll have to remove the entire ass end, that will entail dropping the fuse box if that is even possible. I am not very happy. I'm trying to think about what kind of tool I can use to apply pressure like a vice grip that can press the tabs straight. SOB!

Wow! Don't feel too bad. There is not a person who has done much wrench'n that does not have a story about their screw ups.

Snap a pic of the damage so we can give advice. Without seeing it I would say DON'T bend the tabs back. I sure would not if it is as bent as you make it sound. I would consider a new rear sub frame or taking the one you have to a good frame guy to fix it.

 

[Olsensan]

I'll post a shot in a bit. Haven't slept very well, couldn't get this out of my head. I'm reading up on how to remove the rear frame as you said. I did not see those little tabs behind all the hoses etc and had no idea these two parts were connected. Good grief, I'll be posting in a little while, thanks for the encouragement.

 

[Olsensan]

Here we go, the infamous shots of my very own little hell.