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Spline lube 2002 1150RT
- Thread starter Olsensan
- Start date
Thats the 3rd frame bolt that you need to loosen. Sorry I should have given you better details on its location.
I'm trying to think of a way you can straighten without taking it off. Well if thats the worse thing that happens, you will be doing alright. Thats what I always tell myself when something goes wrong. Thats why I liked having that checklist that was one of the things to check off. I'm sure it will all work out just fine in the end and you will be glad you done it.
I'm trying to think of a way you can straighten without taking it off. Well if thats the worse thing that happens, you will be doing alright. Thats what I always tell myself when something goes wrong. Thats why I liked having that checklist that was one of the things to check off. I'm sure it will all work out just fine in the end and you will be glad you done it.
nrpetersen
Curmudgeon
I didn't actually bend a tab but recall having the same two screwups with my R1100RT two years ago. I stretched heck out of the shift indicator cable and dang near bent something lifting the tail before realizing I had not loosened everything. 
I had chopped the original battery box to fit a more available battery but decided to replace the box with one from Beemer Boneyard after getting a PC680. They were very reasonable & gave good service on used non-crash stuff like that. You may well be able to get a similar tail from them rather than trying to straighten what you have. YMMV
I ended up taking the air inlet box and fuel pressure regulator out as well as lifting the ABS control unit to get the battery box & even the throttle cable split module out (what a mickey mouse mounting that was!).
This part of the bike must have been "designed" or cobbled in desperation at the end of the BMW oil head project after every other space had been spoken for. The clutch people must have also been among the last ones to the party.
I had chopped the original battery box to fit a more available battery but decided to replace the box with one from Beemer Boneyard after getting a PC680. They were very reasonable & gave good service on used non-crash stuff like that. You may well be able to get a similar tail from them rather than trying to straighten what you have. YMMV
I ended up taking the air inlet box and fuel pressure regulator out as well as lifting the ABS control unit to get the battery box & even the throttle cable split module out (what a mickey mouse mounting that was!).
This part of the bike must have been "designed" or cobbled in desperation at the end of the BMW oil head project after every other space had been spoken for. The clutch people must have also been among the last ones to the party.
awagnon
Member
I don't believe the tabs where the nuts are located is a stress bearing joint. I believe all the weight on the rear sub-frame is carried by the four hex bolts and the transmission they attach to. I believe the bolt with the nuts on each end justs holds the rear frame in alignment with the front frame. It's too weak for much else. I'd try to straighten it. The problem will be messing up the alignment for the front hex bolt that attaches the frame to the transmission. If it isn't lined up perfect, it's very hard to start the bolt. Good luck and don't feel bad. We all have similar stories and learn from them.
That's a good point. I might even just hacksaw the thing off, but I'm a butcher.
Or you could drill the hole bigger so their would be enough play that you could still line the other four bolts up, and just get washers for the tab holes so you could still tighten it. that might work.
But I think you should be able to straighten it if you get it off, you could postion it against something and smack it with a hammer and flaten it, I would think.
rad
Retired from riding
Good point, he should do what I have before, and that is......
PAUL GLAVES! I need help, in the form of your opinion. He should pm Paul.
pglaves
#13338
The rear subframe is carried by the four Allen head capscrews - two into the engine case and two into the transmission case. As far as I can tell the two small tabs on the cross stud with two hex nuts simply facilitate the swinging up of the rear subframe during maintenance.
If that were my bike I would remove the rear subframe and then, off the bike attempt to reflatten the tabs so that they serve their purpose while still allowing the subrame moiunts to attach properly. Or as suggested I would take them off and use two washers in their place under the cross stud nuts. I don't think this sacrifices any structural integrity.
This will make future work where the subframe needs to be elevated more difficult but I don't think it raises any structural issues.
If that were my bike I would remove the rear subframe and then, off the bike attempt to reflatten the tabs so that they serve their purpose while still allowing the subrame moiunts to attach properly. Or as suggested I would take them off and use two washers in their place under the cross stud nuts. I don't think this sacrifices any structural integrity.
This will make future work where the subframe needs to be elevated more difficult but I don't think it raises any structural issues.
Olsensan
New member
Thank you all for joining the party, I really do appreciate the input/support. I've been going through the actual manual and found that removing the rear sub-frame is not that big of a deal, about 10 more procedures that won't kill me. I rationalized this and simply thought that heck, I wanted something to do to occupy my time so this just goes with any first time adventure, that is the unforeseen. Most of the wiring/tubes and whatnot have already been removed and the subframe will be completely out of my way. I'll post a pic when I have it removed. Thanks again!
nrpetersen
Curmudgeon
Remember that even high strength chrome moly steels are very (re)formable - especially with heat.
Olsensan
New member
Here are a few shots, the rear frame is fixed. The tabs have been bent to their original positions. A few questions:
1) Do I have to remove the entire battery box?
2) When I remove the clutch slave unit that is connected to the bleed grub
screw, does this thing leak or anything like that?
3) I'm looking at the gear shift unit, on the rear of the transmission case
(this is before pulling everything out) has anyone just removed this rather
than trying to route the connector under the battery box?
1) Do I have to remove the entire battery box?
2) When I remove the clutch slave unit that is connected to the bleed grub
screw, does this thing leak or anything like that?
3) I'm looking at the gear shift unit, on the rear of the transmission case
(this is before pulling everything out) has anyone just removed this rather
than trying to route the connector under the battery box?
Attachments
rad
Retired from riding
Battery box; If I remember right, you just lift/pry it (gentle there big guy
) and the trans can slide back. I’ve done this on three different models of Oil Heads, so I would have to look at it to be sure for the RT.Slave, it is not a big deal to remove the slave and the banjos if you need to, you will just need to re-bleed. You need a new gasket for the unit and felt for the rod.
No, for number three. You can remove the sender unit, but it won't fit through the opening in the trans the wire sheath passes through. Therefore the trans can't be removed.
Bohan
New member
I was able to route the connector under the battery box (after I loosened it up) and wire harness using a lot of WD40 and persuasion. I routed the connector differently on re-assembly so I won't have the same issue next time.
Attachments
bmw_ken
Member
2) I just completed a spline lube on my RT. Provided that your slave cylinder is not currently leaking, removing it from the transmission should not cause any leaks provided that you don't remove any of the fluid hoses.
3) I had a hard time getting the connector and wire for the gear position indicator free (that was the most difficult part of the whole spline lube) but I did manage. As previously mentioned, the switch will not fit through the hole in the transmission. Upon reassembly, I routed the conector so that it would be a non issue next time.
Bohan
New member
I shouldn't leak unless you disconnect the lines to replace the slave cylinder itself (recommended).
Attachments
Olsensan
New member
Man, I really do love this site and the MOA! With the battery carrier, I loosened the 2 - 10mm nuts holding it down, which is supported by those 2 pillon posts underneath. That is sufficient to pry the battery box up high enough to clear the tops of the bolts which the nuts came off?
I removed the picture here and posted it in the spline lube pictorial.
I removed the picture here and posted it in the spline lube pictorial.
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FatChance
Guest
I am going through this on my 1150GS and just reinstalled my transmission this weekend and am buttoning it back together.
You can pry up the battery box just high enough to clear those rubber mounted studs on top of the transmission to get the transmission out. Just use judicious force with a pry bar and hold it up with a strap to some solid connection above (I used the cross bar on my GS's handlebars) to keep it out of the way. There are two ground cables wrapped around the back of those transmission studs that also have to be pried over the left stud and that is a little more of a hassle, but can be done. Lightly heating them with a heat gun can soften up the cable covers making them a little more pliable. When you put it back together, leave those cables back in front of the studs so it is easier next time.
General thoughts:
Keep in mind that it will be MUCH easier the next time and that there is nothing that has to be forced, even the first time. If you hit a roadblock, don't get frustrated and force something that could cause problems (like those tabs). There is a way to do these things, just step back and ask or figure out what is going on. Many of us have been through this.
While the bike is apart, I think it is good economy to replace the clutch slave cylinder ($100 at Beemerboneyard). You are probably going to want to disconnect the hose to reroute it anyhow. When you install the new one after bolting the transmission in place, flush the old fluid and bleed it before installing the airbox, "just in case". In a similar vein at the same time connect a battery to the battery cables with some jumpers and test the gear position selector (put the kick stand up first). This way, you verify that everything works properly during the assembly so it is easy to get to in case of a problem.
Finally, during reassembly, take some time and consider the routing of cables and hoses so it will be better and easier the next time. For example, rerouting the gear position cable and the ground cables wrapped around the top transmission stud will make it much easier next time. I also routed things on top of the throttle cables going to the throttle bodies so there would be positive pressure keeping the throttle cable ends fully seated.
Do it right and proactively replace things that are hard to get to and/or wear out (slave cylinder, big throttle body O-rings for example) so you don't have to do this again for a long time. Also reassemble in a way that avoids some of the problem areas the factory introduced when they first built the bike. It can be done better.
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