2009 BMW R1200RT oil change question

[EDWARDL45]

I first starting riding almost 5 years past, therefore I have little maintenance experience. My son also has had BMW's and has assisted me with many add-ons and maintenance situations. I have to admit I know very little about motorcycles myself.

Being that I am retired and do not have a substantial income any more I have decided to perform some minor maintenance on the motorcycle due to the fact that my son seems to be getting irritated with my constant questions and calls for help, and I understand. I am also tired of paying $80 an hour for labor plus parts just for some maintenance that I am sure I can perform myself at times.

So, now I have now purchased an oil filter, oil filter wrench, oil and I am ready to start doing a winter oil change for storage over the winter, by the way I have almost 3,500 miles on since the last oil change and have 12,000 miles on the bike. The cost of these items I hate to say was approximately $100, but everything but the oil can be used over and over.

My question is: When it comes to draining the oil, I assume that it should be warmed up for easy draining first. Then remove the drain plug and drain the oil followed by removing the filter plus clean everything off. What I do not know is do I have to worry about draining any additional oil from the cooling system from any place else?

Next question, How much of the 4.1 quarts of oil do I put in initially. Do I just put in perhaps 4 quarts, start it up and then check the oil fill glass or do I put in the entire 4.1 quarts right away. I do not want to over fill or under fill the crank case and cause damage when I start it up.

Can someone advise me on this? As I said, I am a retired with plenty of time God willing, but with very little experience. I do know how to hold a wrench etc., but need some basic assistance without have to ask my son again due to his vast knowledge of BMW motorcycles and my lack of it. Perhaps my son will be kinder to my knowing that I finally did something myself.

Thank you, I will be very appreciative.

 

[henzilla]

welcome aboard,

there is a tech how- to section with all sorts of info, including a step by step oil change for a R series Hexhead like yours. you are on the right track on your procedure . ENJOY THE WRENCHING!
http://forums.forums.bmwmoa.orgdisplay.php?f=44

 

[Semper_Fi]

welcome aboard,

there is a tech how- to section with all sorts of info, including a step by step oil change for a R series Hexhead like yours. you are on the right track on your procedure . ENJOY THE WRENCHING!
http://forums.forums.bmwmoa.orgdisplay.php?f=44

What he said!!!

Welcome - a direct link to the oil change is here CLICK ME NOW

 

[roborider]

If you ride the bike for 20 minutes or so, the oil will be hot and flow out very easily. There is nothing special about the oil cooler, it all drains out just fine.

I never measure what I put in. I fill it with about 4 quarts to the to of the sight glass. Keep in mind that it takes some time for it to flow from the fill port to the crank case. I also prefill the filter.

Once I start it up, It usually drops to the bottom of the sight glass. I add about 1/2 quart (which goes to about the top of the glass) and then take it for a decent 10 minute drive. After about a 5 minute rest period on the center stand, I check it and add oil to bring it to about 3/4 on the sight glass. It takes about 1/2 quart to go from the bottom of the glass to the top of the glass, so I estimate the volume needed by how much I want to increase the level.

It's no more difficult than changing the oil on a car. In fact, it's easier.

Robo

 

[dhgeyer]

When you bought the oil filter, did you get a new crush washer for the drain plug? Most dealers know enough to include one, but sometimes you have to ask.

You can get away with using the old one a time or two if the drain plug was torqued properly, but I always use a new one. On BMWs there isn't much to the crush washer, and I think it's best to replace it.

 

[roborider]

Good reminder. The crush washer is a single use item to me on the RT since the threads are soft and you don't want to strip them.

 

[racer7]

The factory fill volume is 4 L which is about 4.4 qts to the middle of the sight glass on my 08 RT- look in your owners manual for exact volumes and just add that amount right at the start and you'll be pretty close.

I find 4.6 qts gets me to the top of the sight glass. Anyway, measure exactly what you do
(4 full containers plus how much out of number 5- they're marked on the side) and you can just duplicate it every time.

Do remember to drain it hot to get as much crud out as possible.

Also, I happen to like magnetic drain plugs- they let you look for accumulated bits ad filings when you pull the plug (and maybe retrieve an errant part...). Your change is a handy time to make the swap if you want one.

 

[marchyman]

The factory fill volume is 4 L which is about 4.4 qts

4.2+ quarts. One liter is 1.0566882+ quarts.

 

[mpmarty]

Go slowly and don't force anything. Replace the crush washer if possible. I too am retired and do all my own maintenance. Use a torque wrench and when you insert the drain plug use your fingers to start it and turn it in until it snugs up against the seat. Then torque it carefully. Prefill the oil filter with fresh clean oil before installing it and wipe a bit on the rubber gasket so it turns freely and doesn't bind. Make sure the old rubber gasket came off with the old filter, as sometimes they stick to the engine block and must be removed before installing the new filter or you will have a massive leak. Happy wrenching

 

[Atomicman52]

It takes about 1 full quart to go from the bottom of the glass to the top of the glass, so I estimate the volume needed by how much I want to increase the level.

Robo

Absolutley Incorrect!!!!:

It is 1/2 Qt. from the bottom to the top of the site glass!!!

 

[roborider]

Yes, that was an error and I'll fix that.

 

[beemeup]

One tip

One tip I would add is that when you take out the old oil filter, check it to see if the rubber seal is on the bottom of it, if it isn't reach up where the filter was seated and pull it out. I find they often stay behind. Good Luck, Don

 

[JeffinTD]

I would also suggest investing in a decent quality torque wrench, so as not to strip the plug or have it come loose.

The JVB video and a factory CD manual are also good investments. Changing the transmission and final drive oil, valve adjustment, and throttle body sync are also covered in the video.

Lastly, having or having access to a GS911 would be nice. It will let you reset the service reminder, and also let you pull up any diagnostic trouble codes if you should ever get a check engine light.

 

[XTrooper]

When changing the oil in my '09 RT, I add 4 quarts and forget it. This seems to work out just fine because it leaves the oil at just a hair below the top of the sight glass.

 

[greenwald]

I first starting riding almost 5 years past, therefore I have little maintenance experience. My son also has had BMW's and has assisted me with many add-ons and maintenance situations. I have to admit I know very little about motorcycles myself.

Being that I am retired and do not have a substantial income any more I have decided to perform some minor maintenance on the motorcycle due to the fact that my son seems to be getting irritated with my constant questions and calls for help, and I understand. I am also tired of paying $80 an hour for labor plus parts just for some maintenance that I am sure I can perform myself at times.

So, now I have now purchased an oil filter, oil filter wrench, oil and I am ready to start doing a winter oil change for storage over the winter, by the way I have almost 3,500 miles on since the last oil change and have 12,000 miles on the bike. The cost of these items I hate to say was approximately $100, but everything but the oil can be used over and over.

My question is: When it comes to draining the oil, I assume that it should be warmed up for easy draining first. Then remove the drain plug and drain the oil followed by removing the filter plus clean everything off. What I do not know is do I have to worry about draining any additional oil from the cooling system from any place else?

Next question, How much of the 4.1 quarts of oil do I put in initially. Do I just put in perhaps 4 quarts, start it up and then check the oil fill glass or do I put in the entire 4.1 quarts right away. I do not want to over fill or under fill the crank case and cause damage when I start it up.

Can someone advise me on this? As I said, I am a retired with plenty of time God willing, but with very little experience. I do know how to hold a wrench etc., but need some basic assistance without have to ask my son again due to his vast knowledge of BMW motorcycles and my lack of it. Perhaps my son will be kinder to my knowing that I finally did something myself.

Thank you, I will be very appreciative.

Just finished another oil change on my R1200RT.
Basic things to remember:

1) Take it for a spin (10-20 minutes) to warm up the oil - drains better and suspends more crud.

2) When you get back from that 'warm-up run,' park the bike on the side stand first for about 5 minutes - helps drain oil out of the oil cooler that way, for a more complete change.

3) When you remove your drain plug (make it a magnetic one - look for attached debris!), make sure to replace the crush washer with a new one - every time!

4) When you remove the oil filter, make sure the old O-ring comes with it.

5) Lube the O-ring of the new filter before installing and torque both filter and drain plug to BMW specs for this bike (8 ft./lbs. for the filter & 22 ft./lbs. for the bolt).

6) Add about 3 1/2 quarts and then take it for a ride - you will have minimally sufficient oil, but most likely will get the "Low Oil" exclamation mark on the computer screen. This ride will recirculate new oil thru all systems.

7) With the engine now hot at the end of your post-change ride, again sidestand the bike for 5 minutes - then center stand it for another 5 minutes. Then check the level.

8) Add oil (just several ounces at a time - a dixie cup works great - and wait a full minute before considering adding more) until it fills 80% of the viewing window. Now you're good to go for however many miles you tolerate between changes.

9) Go Ride!

 

[Ausbill]

Drill or punch a small hole in the bottom of the filter and let it oil drain, saves oil running down the side of the case.

 

[Atomicman52]

3) When you remove your drain plug (make it a magnetic one - look for attached debris!), make sure to replace the crush washer with a new one - every time!

4) When you remove the oil filter, make sure the old O-ring comes with it.

Service Department told me a Magnetic Drain plug was a total wast of $$.

they said if you have metal shavings in your engine you got bigger problems then a drain plug.

since the Tranny and the engine are completly separate in an RT it was an excercise in uselessness to have amgnetic drain plug for the engine.

Makes sense that if your engine and tranny shared the sme oil this would mak a lot more sense, since missed shifts could cause some metal debris.

Even if there was somewthing in your engine oil (I hope you can report what you have found on your magnetic plug) it would have to nbe tinny enough to get through the filter element to end up on a drain plug.

I am not saying I necessarily agree with this, just throwing it out here for discussion.

Waht say you?

 

[marchyman]

Service Department told me a Magnetic Drain plug was a total wast of $$.

I suppose it depends upon what you expect the drain plug to do. If you expect it to somehow protect the engine I agree it is a waste. If, on the other hand, you are looking for early warning of possible problems it can be helpful.

they said if you have metal shavings in your engine you got bigger problems then a drain plug.

True. But how are you going to know about those bigger problems? A magnetic drain plug may help. It was a grit on a drain plug that lead to a teardown of an engine where I found cracked tappets and a toasted cam. This was not on a modern bike, but I don't think that makes a lot of difference.

since the Tranny and the engine are completly separate in an RT it was an excercise in uselessness to have amgnetic drain plug for the engine.

It seems like the person talking thinks the magnetic plug is supposed to protect against problems. This is the first time I've run into that belief. Wonder how common it is?

 

[racer7]

Marchyman's explanation is the reason I like magnetic plugs- it was my initial comment that started that line of discussion.

Of course they prevent nothing. How could a plug prevent anything?

But if you look at it each time and notice something unusual once, it may allow a more modest repair prior to a catastrophic failure.

I use them in almost everything and rarely see anything much on them. Anything really gritty or increased volume would be cause for finding out where it came from before it gets more expensive than necessary

 

[mpmarty]

As to having to go through the filter that's bullc&Ap. Nothing broken or worn off any of the revolving/reciprocating parts of the engine need to go through the filter to reach the sump and drain plug.