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R11RT Won't Start Unless in Neutral

rwojtow

New member
All of a sudden, my bike won't start unless it's in neutral. The info panel and pump power up when i raise the kickstand but the bike won't crank. I have to put it into Neutral, and not just N but the green light must be on and then it's starts. Anyone know where to look or does anyone have a link to the 2000 R1100RT wiring diagram?

Thanks
 
The switch from BMW got stupidly expensive about a year ago. The EME switch is made a bit differently but it’s the way to go, considering that the BMW one doesn’t exactly last forever anyway.

Easiest way to remove is to just break as much of the old switch off as possible and then see if you can get an 11mm socket onto the base. There’s no need to actually tighten the new one; just thread it in fully by hand and the zip tie on the cable will keep it from moving.
 
Thanks. I was just looking at the grip and there is really no way to get the assembly off without destroying the heated grips is there?
What a stupid setup. I guess they expected these switches to last forever? I was hoping that the tube part of the handle bar would separate from the aluminum section (there is a bracket and screw on a rubber bushing) but it won't budge. maybe needs to be heated.
 

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If there was crud or oil inside the gearbox's gear position switch, would that affect the neutral light's ability to light up?
Partial schematic from Doug Raymond, previously posted on the old Mac-Pac website (no longer available).
schem.jpg
 
Thanks. I was just looking at the grip and there is really no way to get the assembly off without destroying the heated grips is there?
What a stupid setup. I guess they expected these switches to last forever? I was hoping that the tube part of the handle bar would separate from the aluminum section (there is a bracket and screw on a rubber bushing) but it won't budge. maybe needs to be heated.
Why would you want to take the assembly off??? Just unscrew the switch and screw a new one in. Cut the wire off the switch and then use a deep socket to unscrew it. Screw the new switch by hand finger tight (no wrench). Plug the switch wire into the connector and go ride.




:dance :dance :dance
 
I was just looking at the grip and there is really no way to get the assembly off without destroying the heated grips is there?
What a stupid setup.
You don't need to do any of that. Just remove the switch. It's directly in front of where the handlebar meets the lever assembly. If you have radio controls you may need to remove that assembly to get access to the switch, but you don't need to disassemble the handlebar or remove the lever housing or anything like that.
 
The switch from BMW got stupidly expensive about a year ago. The EME switch is made a bit differently but it’s the way to go, considering that the BMW one doesn’t exactly last forever anyway.

Easiest way to remove is to just break as much of the old switch off as possible and then see if you can get an 11mm socket onto the base. There’s no need to actually tighten the new one; just thread it in fully by hand and the zip tie on the cable will keep it from moving.
I ordered a new switch which might take some time to get here. Was thinking that I should short the old one out so I can keep riding.
 
It may not apply to the oilheads, but the factory adjustable clutch lever on my '05 R1200ST backed out slowly over time (I didn't notice it) and got to the point that it wasn't engaging the switch. An adjustment back to normal range cured it. Something to look at if your lever has adjustability.

Frank
 
It's not the same setup. This is a pin switch which is positively contacted by the base of the lever.

Those Hexhead clutch microswitches could be a PITA, you're right!
 
Was able to get the switch out, just like AntonLargiader suggested. Now waiting for new switch to arrive. Thanks everyone for the suggestions. Used a pair of needlenose pliers after cutting the wire first.
 
The switch finally arrived and I installed it as you all suggested. I tried 3D printing a short hollow nutdriver to pass over the wire to tighten the switch, but it screws in on a bit of an angle and there is no way to get to the hex nut. Also the hex nut turns free of the switch, which is a good thing if using a wrench but when trying to hand tighten, its difficut to keep the body of the swtch from spinning. But I tightened as well as I could then routed the wire to the connector.
Man, not one part of this job is easy.
Now I have a bolt left over that I'm not sure where it goes. Anybody know its location?
 

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If you're reading this and you have info on the shoulder bolts, please post in this thread started by rwojtow:

 
Is that the screw that you took out at the very beginning, that keeps the grip from rotating on the handlebar? It's missing from your very first pic.
 
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