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Trailering and vehicle power required

This is my Kendon trailer setup, and it comes in at around 700 pounds with this bike. Truck is a 2008 V6 with 215hp and only gets 18mpg highway, without the trailer. It does have the selectable O/D, trans and oil cooler. I towed from San Antonio to Denver for the 100k Foot Ride and had to set it in Tow Mode. I think it went down to 14mpg on the highway.
 

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Given the parameters you set down in your original post (1,500 lbs. towing, not too big, etc.), again I have to say we're having a blast with our new 2014 Ford Escape.

With the 2.0 L EcoBoost in-line 4 engine, and the trailer tow prep package (w/Class II receiver), you're looking at TSC (trailer sway control - automatic), 270 ft. lbs., 240 HP and a towing capacity of 3,500 lbs.

To that, add a seamless AWD and 30 mpg when not towing.

Ergonomics and creature-features are also outstanding.

http://www.ford.com/suvs/escape/?se...20831&ef_id=VK-LZQAABA8Kv6oe:20150109130004:s

Lovin' it!

Good luck with whatever you select. :wave
 
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I'm a Cummins guy...but I live in TX where we ALL have trucks ya know?

It wasn't easy giving up the Duramax after the fifth wheel was gone, but this car comes as close to a truck as you can get:

The 335d has 309bhp and 465lb ft of torque, so there's roughly twice as much muscle compared with a typical 2.0-litre diesel family car.

We tow a TexasTrailers 8x5 Utility with 15" wheels and an aluminum ramp. Both bikes on the trailer with some gear should weigh about 1800 lbs. and we get 22mpg at 80mph. It pulls like crazy at highway speed, even with the trailer. Haven't found a hill that can slow it down yet! U-Haul evens sells a cheap hitch but it takes a while to get it. They aren't sitting in a pile on the shelf. :)
 
I just checked Carmax to see what exactly a 335D is. They have about 10 of them listed for sale, the newest ones being 2011 models, all 2WD 4-door sedans, with prices not too crazy high.
 
Yes they quit making the model in 2012 and went to the 328D 4-cylinder. I guess the Diesel 6 was too much power for this market. A decent one just out of factory warranty at 50+k takes a major hit in resale value and can be had in the low 20's. Buy an aftermarket warranty and enjoy! Some can be found with the extended factory warranty.

Ours was a '10 with 55k and i think we paid around 23 a year ago. We get about 34mpg highway and 27 city without a light foot. One test drive and you'll be hooked I promise! Torque everywhere, reminds me of a big-block muscle car but totally refined. Incredible range too.

http://www.motortrend.com/roadtests/oneyear/1012_2009_bmw_335d_verdict/
 
Thanks for all the input. Many good points.

I am tending towards a Subaru Outback with the boxer six engine - 256 hp, 247 lb-ft torque. I do like the Forester as well in the turbo trim, but don't like that it requires premium fuel. Its tow rating is right at the limit of the projected weight of bike, trailer, and luggage too. The Outback is longer, wider, and lower and I would imagine would handle a bit better. The Ford Escape with the turbo is a possibility as well as that takes regular octane. There are lots of mid-size SUVs right around 180 hp that might do the trick but I think I would have to downsize the trailer to a lighter open design or a rail design. Will have to consider the compromises necessary there.

As far as trailers themselves go, I so far like these though I feel the Ironhorse would be too costly.

http://www.ironhorsetrailers.com/product/1-bike-fliptop-motorcycle-trailer/

http://www.neotrailers.com/trailers_navf.php

Single axle version for the Neo and it comes standard with brakes. The Ironhorse looks like it would be the most aerodynamic.
 
Single axle version for the Neo and it comes standard with brakes. The Ironhorse looks like it would be the most aerodynamic.

The Subaru is a great choice.......it is in the top of many different ratings lists so you won't go wrong there. For me, and I do not know how far you are going to travel; but having a tandem axle is often a trip saver. The ability to NOT loose a trailer due to a blow out is true peace of mind when you have so many other things on a trip to be thinking of. Last summer on one trip from Georgia up into Oregon by crossing the southern states, up the coast and then following the Rockies down to N.M. and then home............6 weeks and 5800 miles..............Started out with 4 new class D trailer tires on the Airstream.........After 2 blow outs by the time we got across west Texas, we figured we needed to do something about tires...........Thank goodness we have a tire monitor system on the truck and trailer tires as NOT knowing about a blow out on the trailer can and does cause some serious wheel well and body damage to a trailer...........
So, up to Albq, NM at the AFB and changed to Carlisle class "E" on all 4 rims of the trailer............that got us up to and into Oregon and by the time we got down into Colo while following the divide, we had lost 2 more tires...........

Anyway, while NOT normal to have so many blow outs or tire problems, on a trip like tha,t one might feel lucky by just having one at least and maybe 2.........So....Having a dual axle allows one to slow way down but to safely find a good place to pull over for repairs..........It is NOT unknown to take a wheel off and keep going .....SLOWLY....on the remaining wheel/tire on that side.............In order to get to town to find help of one kind or another.

Just talking but one can never have too much engine, too much braking power, or the ability to be toooo safe. Also, please consider having a way to monitor those tires...........God bless.........Dennis
 
Nobody seems inclined to discuss the dollar cost of the tow vehicle. I tow either my open trailer with two oilheads or my teardrop camper with front platform and two dirt bikes with a clean low mileage Ford Explorer that I bought used for less than $5,000. Towing or hauling is its job.

For the difference in cost between it and some of the vehicles discussed in this thread I could buy a couple of new BMW motorcycles. Choose your priorities, I guess.

My candidate for a tow vehicle - cost not a huge factor - would be a Pinzgauer or Unimog then.
 
IMHO the hitch itself is an important consideration. If you put on a hitch that is just enough for the load pulled you are asking for trouble. I think they are vastly overrated. I instal a hitch that is rated for about twice the trialer/load weight. I have bent and torn out hitches that had the 1500 rating even though the trailer weighed only 1400. On one trip from NJ to VT I could bend the hitch by hand on arrival and found metal fatigue in the hitch and attachment points. If you are going to pull this all over the country get a small SUV and if it existed, I would opt for a body on frame vehicle. But then I tow with an F150, 5.4L 4X4 suspension airbags etc. so what do I know!
 
Carlisle tires were mentioned earlier. They are the most common sold already mounted tires from many a big box and sporting goods outfitters.They are "cost effective" .

After losing a few on several of the trailers in our control, and thru the years on family and friend owned, I avoid them.
The failures have been on loaded, unloaded, three year old and two less than a year old. In heat and in cold. No extremes I would consider above average.
I am a trailer nut about wheel bearings and tire pressures, and these were checked on the day they failed.
We replaced the Carlisles that came on our toyhauler two seasons ago after they all wore like front tires on an RT . I stressed all the way home after seeing the tread wear.

Went to the local tire guy who shook his head at my C's and talked me into a higher end tire...MasterTracks on the sidewalls.They are 8ply class e and have taken a few long trips without any wear stresses or worries on my part.
Have other friends with same experience with C's, so I don't think I am a tire snob.
 
Nobody seems inclined to discuss the dollar cost of the tow vehicle.

For the difference in cost between it and some of the vehicles discussed in this thread I could buy a couple of new BMW motorcycles. Choose your priorities, I guess.
.

I am on my second Cummins Diesel and it is 12 model years old...an antique here it seems:violin It does have ABS. It's primary job is hauling as we use our "hobby" bikes for almost everything else.It stayed parked almost the whole year diesel hit $4.30 two years ago.

Recently thought about replacing the Dodge, then reality set in after seeing prices we have not kept up with.It will get new suspension and some cosmetic repairs. ..good for another 5+.
I'd rather replace one of our bikes:brow
 
I am on my second Cummins Diesel and it is 12 model years old...an antique here it seems:violin It does have ABS. It's primary job is hauling as we use our "hobby" bikes for almost everything else.It stayed parked almost the whole year diesel hit $4.30 two years ago.

Recently thought about replacing the Dodge, then reality set in after seeing prices we have not kept up with.It will get new suspension and some cosmetic repairs. ..good for another 5+.
I'd rather replace one of our bikes:brow
Lemmee know how that goes Steve, my '03 Cummins quad cab (48K) is interested :D
Gary
 
20150118_093757.jpg

We will hit 150K shortly after leaving this morning:wave

Made a short run to the coast with our 2000 toyhauler behind the 2003 Cummins No bikes,well motorized anyways, kayaks & dogs instead.

This place is full of Winter Texans, not many TX plates. Most say here until
late March.
 
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