gtgt_bangbang
New member
watched some vids on wheel bearings , when one good ol guy forgot to insert the spacer pipe in the wheel before installing the 2nd bearing race.
The pipe wont pass inside the bearing races due to about 1~2 mm interference between the plastic centering rings (aka 36 31 1 237 595 RING) and the race.
He had a pretty good response , separated the plastic centering spools off the pipe , inserting all the pieces one by one and re-assembling it inside the hub, "ship in a bottle" style.
Clearly worked, but the plastic spools on my pipes are such a really tight fit, stuck on tube from years of sitting there , and it may suck trying to get them back on the pipe without nicking / deforming them , there isnt much access in the there, etc, and if they get dinged up, especially on their ID, it may interfere with seating the wedding ring as is required.
Thinking how to get the pipe & spacers back through a seated race, to get it back inside the hub , without disassembling it;
so I Nipped off a crescent-segment of the lip around the centering ring , then did the same on the other ring, about 120 degrees off from the first cut.
Nipping these segments off allows the tube to pass in & out of the bearings with just a little rock & roll & push & shove .
One purpose of the plastic ring is to center up the spacer pipe enough to ease inserting the axle, but spreading the nipped-off chunks around helps avoid too much slop to center it up for the 3 seconds its does that job.
OK why the heck remove the spacer pipe between bearing changes ? one asks. Cant you ever leave well enough alone ?
heck no. My craptastiic harbor freight MC tire installer stand works well enough, a decent tool except they never included a good 'spindle', ( or mine showed up , without ) . The spindle passes through the wheel , is used to hold the wheel secure & centered on machine, and as a pivot point to work the tire lever around.
The handle of a trolly jack was the best spindle I found yet , does great at that task , near perfect diameter & length, helps machine work better.
Problem is, the jack handle diameter is too large to pass thru the spacer pipes 17mm ID .
I dont have any long enough 17mm rods that will slip thru the pipe and work as well as a pivot.
yeah maybe there is a black pipe that works, never bothered to find one just for that job, as the well-fitting jack handle was ideal.
With the spacer tube removable, it pulls out for tire changes with the trusty jack handle tube , then re-insert the spacer , and nobody knows nothing, see ?.
PIC; nipped flange on rings on spacer to allow passage into hub; nipped less than ~ 1/4 of the flange off the ring, at 2 points spread around spacer.
The first ring passes easily with just this much flange removed , the 2nd ring takes a little more convincing due to restricted off-axis shoves possible, but it passed .
Will probably take some more off next time its out, or maybe cut smaller segments off at several places. Seems a cross pattern of remaining flange with allow easiest passage. I'd say insert the end of the pipe that has the plastic ring hanging off end ( to capture the wedding ring) FIRST, as it will take less abuse going in that way.
IF you have bearings pulled, you can test the nips before installing both races, just to check your eye ballin.
I guess you could just hammer out the spacer pipe through its rings, but take care not to nick the spacer pipe ends,
if they are deformed at all then the pipe wont work properly as a spacer,
as pipe end faces must be flat , square & parallel or it will cause uneven load on the bearing, and bearing adjustment will never be right & wrong in a fairly hard to determine manner.
The pipe wont pass inside the bearing races due to about 1~2 mm interference between the plastic centering rings (aka 36 31 1 237 595 RING) and the race.
He had a pretty good response , separated the plastic centering spools off the pipe , inserting all the pieces one by one and re-assembling it inside the hub, "ship in a bottle" style.
Clearly worked, but the plastic spools on my pipes are such a really tight fit, stuck on tube from years of sitting there , and it may suck trying to get them back on the pipe without nicking / deforming them , there isnt much access in the there, etc, and if they get dinged up, especially on their ID, it may interfere with seating the wedding ring as is required.
Thinking how to get the pipe & spacers back through a seated race, to get it back inside the hub , without disassembling it;
so I Nipped off a crescent-segment of the lip around the centering ring , then did the same on the other ring, about 120 degrees off from the first cut.
Nipping these segments off allows the tube to pass in & out of the bearings with just a little rock & roll & push & shove .
One purpose of the plastic ring is to center up the spacer pipe enough to ease inserting the axle, but spreading the nipped-off chunks around helps avoid too much slop to center it up for the 3 seconds its does that job.
OK why the heck remove the spacer pipe between bearing changes ? one asks. Cant you ever leave well enough alone ?
heck no. My craptastiic harbor freight MC tire installer stand works well enough, a decent tool except they never included a good 'spindle', ( or mine showed up , without ) . The spindle passes through the wheel , is used to hold the wheel secure & centered on machine, and as a pivot point to work the tire lever around.
The handle of a trolly jack was the best spindle I found yet , does great at that task , near perfect diameter & length, helps machine work better.
Problem is, the jack handle diameter is too large to pass thru the spacer pipes 17mm ID .
I dont have any long enough 17mm rods that will slip thru the pipe and work as well as a pivot.
yeah maybe there is a black pipe that works, never bothered to find one just for that job, as the well-fitting jack handle was ideal.
With the spacer tube removable, it pulls out for tire changes with the trusty jack handle tube , then re-insert the spacer , and nobody knows nothing, see ?.
PIC; nipped flange on rings on spacer to allow passage into hub; nipped less than ~ 1/4 of the flange off the ring, at 2 points spread around spacer.
The first ring passes easily with just this much flange removed , the 2nd ring takes a little more convincing due to restricted off-axis shoves possible, but it passed .
Will probably take some more off next time its out, or maybe cut smaller segments off at several places. Seems a cross pattern of remaining flange with allow easiest passage. I'd say insert the end of the pipe that has the plastic ring hanging off end ( to capture the wedding ring) FIRST, as it will take less abuse going in that way.
IF you have bearings pulled, you can test the nips before installing both races, just to check your eye ballin.
I guess you could just hammer out the spacer pipe through its rings, but take care not to nick the spacer pipe ends,
if they are deformed at all then the pipe wont work properly as a spacer,
as pipe end faces must be flat , square & parallel or it will cause uneven load on the bearing, and bearing adjustment will never be right & wrong in a fairly hard to determine manner.
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