cam_on_van_isle
Member
When I first got my bike I was tinkering and adjusting the fast idle cable. I did move the throttle body wires, not realizing this electronic fuel injection system is pretty old school and depends on the throttle wires to balance the air intake, and needless to say the TB sync was way out of adjustment when I was done!
This was in the summer, so I didn't want to run my bike stationary for long, and I found the home made clear plastic tube manometer wasn't a precision scientific instrument! Seemed like one fluid level would rise depending on rpm, and how steady the rpm’s increased. My guess would be the best way would be to put the bike on a dynometer to give the engine some load.
So I got it close, and then would ride in town, in third gear with a steady 3000 rpm, and then pull over and turn the adjustment sleeve one way as little as I could and try it again. After many times, (some adjustments making it worse, some better, I finally got it right on the money.
One thing I found, besides the lack of surging, is the transmission seems to shift smoother now as well. The adjustment is rather sensitive, and you should only adjust the right side, and make sure there is a small amount of slack in the throttle cables at closed throttle.
Also, I finalized the TB sync after adjusting the valves, new sparkplugs and air filter.
I have recently installed Speigler brake lines. I removed the fuel tank, because I had visions of brake fluid spraying everywhere! I’m glad I did, although I barely shed a drop, but the most effective evacuation was on the ABS nipples. I did buy a Mityvac kit, but as GSAddict has showed, a 25cc syringe would have been just as effective. Installation went quite well, most hoses had a banjo on one end, and a flared connection on the other. I torqued the banjo end, and I could then rotate the flared end to the natural curvature of the line before snugging it. The problem I got into was the front reservoir to under the gas tank banjo. This one didn’t have a stopper to stop the line from rotating clockwise on torqueing, and I was trying to keep the line from squeezing against the horn, and the spot weld that holds the fitting snapped. That happened because I was twisting to keep the line straight. I do not believe this will have any performance issues long term, but I wish I could do it again more carefully. I zap-strapped the line. I put a lot of fluid through the lines bleeding them, I’ll have to wait until spring and I can ride and see what the feel of the brakes are.
Cheers to GSAddict for turning around my HES sensor wire rebuild in a day, right before he went on holidays. He’s just across the water from me in BC, I’d like to meet him. I scribed each surface of where my HES sensor was, so I’m sure I installed it exactly where it was. Tensioning the alternator belt caused some confusion, I did read for some models you can pry the alternator to get the correct tension, but looking at my manual there is an adjusting screw that was effortless.
I do have a fuel filter kit, but I’ll hold off on that until I ride the bike until there is less gas in the tank. Removing the tank, I did not buy quick disconnects, but bought some inexpensive pipe crimpers from the auto store that worked well.
I guess I’m like a lot of you who is looking forward to spring, although here on Vancouver Island the weather isn’t anything to complain about.
I’ve owned my bike for less than six months, and only ridden it for three, after not riding for over twenty years, so as far as BMW bikes go, I’m a noob.
Thanks for reading, all the best.
This was in the summer, so I didn't want to run my bike stationary for long, and I found the home made clear plastic tube manometer wasn't a precision scientific instrument! Seemed like one fluid level would rise depending on rpm, and how steady the rpm’s increased. My guess would be the best way would be to put the bike on a dynometer to give the engine some load.
So I got it close, and then would ride in town, in third gear with a steady 3000 rpm, and then pull over and turn the adjustment sleeve one way as little as I could and try it again. After many times, (some adjustments making it worse, some better, I finally got it right on the money.
One thing I found, besides the lack of surging, is the transmission seems to shift smoother now as well. The adjustment is rather sensitive, and you should only adjust the right side, and make sure there is a small amount of slack in the throttle cables at closed throttle.
Also, I finalized the TB sync after adjusting the valves, new sparkplugs and air filter.
I have recently installed Speigler brake lines. I removed the fuel tank, because I had visions of brake fluid spraying everywhere! I’m glad I did, although I barely shed a drop, but the most effective evacuation was on the ABS nipples. I did buy a Mityvac kit, but as GSAddict has showed, a 25cc syringe would have been just as effective. Installation went quite well, most hoses had a banjo on one end, and a flared connection on the other. I torqued the banjo end, and I could then rotate the flared end to the natural curvature of the line before snugging it. The problem I got into was the front reservoir to under the gas tank banjo. This one didn’t have a stopper to stop the line from rotating clockwise on torqueing, and I was trying to keep the line from squeezing against the horn, and the spot weld that holds the fitting snapped. That happened because I was twisting to keep the line straight. I do not believe this will have any performance issues long term, but I wish I could do it again more carefully. I zap-strapped the line. I put a lot of fluid through the lines bleeding them, I’ll have to wait until spring and I can ride and see what the feel of the brakes are.
Cheers to GSAddict for turning around my HES sensor wire rebuild in a day, right before he went on holidays. He’s just across the water from me in BC, I’d like to meet him. I scribed each surface of where my HES sensor was, so I’m sure I installed it exactly where it was. Tensioning the alternator belt caused some confusion, I did read for some models you can pry the alternator to get the correct tension, but looking at my manual there is an adjusting screw that was effortless.
I do have a fuel filter kit, but I’ll hold off on that until I ride the bike until there is less gas in the tank. Removing the tank, I did not buy quick disconnects, but bought some inexpensive pipe crimpers from the auto store that worked well.
I guess I’m like a lot of you who is looking forward to spring, although here on Vancouver Island the weather isn’t anything to complain about.
I’ve owned my bike for less than six months, and only ridden it for three, after not riding for over twenty years, so as far as BMW bikes go, I’m a noob.
Thanks for reading, all the best.
