Took the bike out for about an hour in our warmer weather today in Colorado. The bike ran great until I turned for home and got on the highway. At around 60 mph I was giving it gas and the engine started bogging down intermittently. Was able to get home, but I'm not sure how to go about diagnosing the issue. Seemed to run and accelerate fine the last 5 miles or so (lower revs through the city). Just wondering what the likeliest issues are - like a top 5 to start checking. I've looked at other threads and the list seems long for potential problems. For background - I've replaced fuel filter (but did not change internal fuel line - wasn't thinking at the time), haven't messed with throttle bodies, air filter looks good. I haven't ridden the bike much in the last year or so but am getting time to get back on it. Between my Clymer manual and YouTube I can do most of the work, but I just don't have the real knowledge for going about a diagnosis. Thanks for any input.
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2000 1100 RS Bogging down at high speed
- Thread starter mhallman
- Start date
johnrt1100
New member
Seems like you may have diagnosed it yourself with the fuel line. A crack in one of the hoses can cause this as you end up starving for fuel at the higher speeds.
riderr1150gsadv
Well-known member
Possible due to moving that hose around during the filter replacement... You can buy gas immersible fuel injection hose and make your own loop..
m_stock10506
Well-known member
Too much air, not enough gas. Check for air leaks - bike at steady idle, spray carb/TB cleaner around all TB connections, especially at the point where the butterfly shaft is held to the TB. If idle changes, that points to an air leak. Cracked U hose in the tank could be leaking gas back into the tank instead of to the injectors. As fuel demand increases, fuel delivery doesn't keep up.
Are you also getting popping when you shut the throttle for engine braking? Not just a little pop, but significant popping. That would indicate air leak to me too.
Are you also getting popping when you shut the throttle for engine braking? Not just a little pop, but significant popping. That would indicate air leak to me too.
r0ckrat
Active member
This. While testing with carb cleaner for an air leak, be sure to do it when the bike is fully warmed up.
Thanks for the suggestions. Will get some TB cleaner and do that in the next few days. No big popping sounds.
m_stock10506
Well-known member
Fuel injected, O2 sensor bikes will regulate altitude changes in ambient oxygen levels automatically.
Just a follow-up. Kind of a good news bad news. Good news is that I got the tank apart and found that the U-shaped hose was indeed messed up (see image). Also found that the fuel screen was bad and vibration dampener torn. Living in Denver, I drove down to the good folks at EME and got the parts needed. Replaced all the hoses in the tank, had to take the pump off to fit the new vibration damper and new hose, and buttoned everything up. When I went to turn the key to pressurize the system - all I heard was clicking at the fuse box (one second on, one second off). I was sure to reconnect the wires on the fuel pump when I reinstalled it as well as the fuel pump connector. This is how I learn lots of things - fix one thing and break two more... Any help is appreciated.
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Just a bit more information. Thought I had forgotten to put gas in it (that was all good). The clicking at the fuse box is the ABS. When I turn the key on, the gear indicator does not come on or the fuel level. The kickstand is down. Battery tested pretty good (12.3).
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m_stock10506
Well-known member
Glad you found the problem with the "U" hose. If you use non-ethanol gas, the in-tank hose should stay good for at least 6-7 years, possibly longer.
Unless your 1100 has been modified, the bike won't start with the side stand down. The 1100RT/RS/R/GS side stand is wired with the kill switch. Lift the side stand and the fuel pump should pressurize when you turn the key on.
Oh my god - I'm an idiot...
Side stand worked just like it should. Even double checked it to make sure it was in the "right" position.
Thanks for stating the obvious! Everything working just like it should now...
I have found that an easy way to tell clutch slippage is to watch the relationship of the tachometer to the speedometer when applying throttle. This is especially true if the throttle is increased in too higher gear….. example would be to be in 4th gear at 30mph an roll the throttle on- watching for a unusual tachometer change.
OM
