R1100 Suggested Mods?

[mzeitz]

I'm doing some surgery on my 99 R1100R (as posted elsewhere in another thread recently) and while I'm into it I'm wondering if there's anything else I should pay attention to or do proactively. It's got about 45k miles and I've had it for about a year. When I first bought it it had what I considered to be excessive popping/backfiring on heavy engine braking (as when going downhill), but after I serviced it (valve adjustment, fluid changes and changed out the plugs, I think I went from NGK to Autolite) that went away. About the only other issue I have, if you can call it that, is that when it's been run for a while, shut down and first restarted, it seems to want to bog down at low speed in first gear. It never stalls at idle and if I give it a couple throttle blips and get the engine speed up a little it runs fine. Always been that way and it's never actually stalled, died or left me stranded so I just live with it.

Anyway, I've seen elsewhere about a vapor canister delete - my vent hoses from the fuel tank are just tucked down along the side and aren't connected to anything so I'm thinking the previous owner has already done that. The only other thing I see is it has a Techlusion R259 (I think) module wired in. To be clear, overall it runs great and I'm not looking to get any more out of it or fix what ain't broke as they say, but I plan on keeping it for awhile so would appreciate anyone's feedback on what to look out for. Maybe should mention also I ordered a set of stainless brake hoses so will be installing those as well.

Thanks!

 

[Rinty]

I'm not sure, but an AF Xied may help with the mixture.

Also installing steel fuel line quick disconnects is a good idea. The plastic ones on my former 1150 didn't stay dry for long, after I got the bike.

 

[mzeitz]

I'm not sure, but an AF Xied may help with the mixture.

Also installing steel fuel line quick disconnects are a good idea. The plastic ones on my former 1150 didn't stay dry for long, after I got the bike.

Forgot to mention that - I do have disconnects but they are the plastic ones - any suggestions where to look for the good ones?

 

[jsouth]

Stainless brake lines are a must. Also, if you have not yet replaced the Hall Effect Sensor harness with new or one that has been rewired, that is essential. The original wiring degrades and WILL fail (ticking time bomb). When it fails without warning, you're out of luck until it is replaced. Terrible on a trip or even a day ride.

 

[rogerc60]

Forgot to mention that - I do have disconnects but they are the plastic ones - any suggestions where to look for the good ones?

I bought mine from Beemer Boneyard.

 

[mzeitz]

Stainless brake lines are a must. Also, if you have not yet replaced the Hall Effect Sensor harness with new or one that has been rewired, that is essential. The original wiring degrades and WILL fail (ticking time bomb). When it fails without warning, you're out of luck until it is replaced. Terrible on a trip or even a day ride.

Brake lines are already on the way. First I've heard of the hall effect sensor, so that's exactly the kind of info I'm looking for. Should I source a new one and if so should I go OE or is an aftermarket unit better (seeing as the OE one is failing) - also you mention re-wiring; is that something a home-gamer can do or is there somewhere I can send it out? I'm in Seattle if there are any local shops anyone would recommend.

 

[Rinty]

First I've heard of the hall effect sensor, so that's exactly the kind of info I'm looking for. Should I source a new one and if so should I go OE or is an aftermarket unit better (seeing as the OE one is failing)

Send your Hall Effect Sensor to GSAddict, who is on the board here. He's close to you in the Sunshine Coast.

And, as stated above, Beemer Boneyard for the metal quick disconnects.

 

[Mirider]

GS Addict is the man for a Hall effect sensor rewire. If you reach out to him he will send you instructions on how to remove it and send it to him. It’s a short turn around and he does very professional work. I replaced my left side cam chain tensioner on my 96rt which is also recommended. I bought mine at the Beemer boneyard.

 

[mzeitz]

Good suggestions - appreciate it!

I just pulled the hall effect sensor off and the wiring up near the connector is pretty trashed, so you guys probably saved me from a breakdown. Did a little research on the cam chain tensioner so I will probably do that as well.

 

[roger 04 rt]

I'm doing some surgery on my 99 R1100R (as posted elsewhere in another thread recently) and while I'm into it I'm wondering if there's anything else I should pay attention to or do proactively. It's got about 45k miles and I've had it for about a year. When I first bought it it had what I considered to be excessive popping/backfiring on heavy engine braking (as when going downhill), but after I serviced it (valve adjustment, fluid changes and changed out the plugs, I think I went from NGK to Autolite) that went away. About the only other issue I have, if you can call it that, is that when it's been run for a while, shut down and first restarted, it seems to want to bog down at low speed in first gear. It never stalls at idle and if I give it a couple throttle blips and get the engine speed up a little it runs fine. Always been that way and it's never actually stalled, died or left me stranded so I just live with it.

Anyway, I've seen elsewhere about a vapor canister delete - my vent hoses from the fuel tank are just tucked down along the side and aren't connected to anything so I'm thinking the previous owner has already done that. The only other thing I see is it has a Techlusion R259 (I think) module wired in. To be clear, overall it runs great and I'm not looking to get any more out of it or fix what ain't broke as they say, but I plan on keeping it for awhile so would appreciate anyone's feedback on what to look out for. Maybe should mention also I ordered a set of stainless brake hoses so will be installing those as well.

Thanks!

The techlusion is a crude hack by today’s technology. I would remove it, tune your bike thoroughly, stay clear of any attempt to perform zero=zero, and let us know where you stand after that. An AF-XIED will perform better than the techlusion and you may want to replace your injectors with a matched set from tills.de.

 

[mzeitz]

The techlusion is a crude hack by today’s technology. I would remove it, tune your bike thoroughly, stay clear of any attempt to perform zero=zero, and let us know where you stand after that. An AF-XIED will perform better than the techlusion and you may want to replace your injectors with a matched set from tills.de.

Hmm, yes I wondered about that. I also have a new booster plug (I think it's called) that came with the bike when I bought it but I never tried it. Same would apply to that I guess. As I said, overall she runs good but I've read that injectors can smooth out the throttle response and though I've gotten used to it for street riding I would say the throttle is a little on the twitchy side at low revs. I'm putting a GS suspension on the bike and would like to get into some off road type stuff so I wouldn't mind having a smoother more predictable low end throttle. If I'm going to do injectors what are your thoughts about going with 1200 injectors - I've heard it said that they provide much better power delivery across the whole rev range.

I'm seeing that this project is falling prey to "while I'm in there I may as well..." but that's ok. I have spare time right now and at the end of the day I don't mind spending a little time and money for a machine I'm really going to be happy with

 

[barryg]

Venerable Old RS

About 10 years ago I parked and mothballed my accumulation of bikes due to medical issues in the family. One of them was a ‘’94 R1100RS. It was pretty much modded up by 2010 standards when I parked it. I plan on bringing it back up to more modern standards during the resurrection. My go to tech will help me make the proper decisions for this process. Back in the day most of the oil head experts stated that good tires and better shocks were the best upgrades for these bikes. It’s going to be interesting and probably a little pricy. Wow, 25 years went by pretty fast. Ps I’m studying all the current Oilhead threads to get me back up to speed.

 

[mzeitz]

About 10 years ago I parked and mothballed my accumulation of bikes due to medical issues in the family. One of them was a ‘’94 R1100RS. It was pretty much modded up by 2010 standards when I parked it. I plan on bringing it back up to more modern standards during the resurrection. My go to tech will help me make the proper decisions for this process. Back in the day most of the oil head experts stated that good tires and better shocks were the best upgrades for these bikes. It’s going to be interesting and probably a little pricy. Wow, 25 years went by pretty fast. Ps I’m studying all the current Oilhead threads to get me back up to speed.

Sounds like a good project! Don't know what you will be needing but I was able to find the vast majority of what I needed on eBay at least as far as used Oilhead parts. I haven't spent the money for a really good set of shocks yet - going to see how I like the setup I'm going for and if it all works out I may spring for a set (no pun intended).

 

[dieselyoda]

The techlusion is a crude hack by today’s technology. I would remove it, tune your bike thoroughly, stay clear of any attempt to perform zero=zero, and let us know where you stand after that. An AF-XIED will perform better than the techlusion and you may want to replace your injectors with a matched set from tills.de.

It is crude technology compared to say, my F150 that I can control every function from my lights to my fuel economy from my steering wheel.

But, it is an almost 30 year old bike.

If you have the time and money, you can make some nice changes but you still don't have cruise and the 6 speed tranny make big differences. That comes with a newer bike.

The one mod I suggest, side-stand, extend it about 3/4" and a larger foot.

 

[mzeitz]

It is crude technology compared to say, my F150 that I can control every function from my lights to my fuel economy from my steering wheel.

But, it is an almost 30 year old bike.

If you have the time and money, you can make some nice changes but you still don't have cruise and the 6 speed tranny make big differences. That comes with a newer bike.

The one mod I suggest, side-stand, extend it about 3/4" and a larger foot.

Well, you're right as far as that goes - it's never going to be comparable to a new model, but it's what I've got and I like a project! (The side and center stands are among the parts I'm swapping over from the 1100GS)