Iron Butt Rally 2011 - whipping an RT (and me) into shape

[skyking96w]

Changing headlight bulbs

The first time I had to change headlight bulbs I had to enlist the help of a slender 20-year-old with small hands! Then I realized that it takes only a few minutes to remove the dash entirely which gives pretty easy access to the bulbs.

This isn't so true if you have stereo speakers and other options cluttering up the space behind the dash.

 

[rob nye]

I could only wish it were so simple.

Now you can see why I needed the grabbers.

Regardless of the method make sure you can change your bulb when you are tired.

No points for practicing during the day.

 

[MLS2GO]

RTP Brackets

I am using the lower brackets to mount he Micro De's. I have the 1 PIAA HID/ 1 Trailtech HID combination on them now. They are very sturdy.
BMR Products is also making brackets for them.

 

[D-Mac]

I missed this one.

The touratech lights are made by hella. As such you can search for them from various sources and save some money.

Also for the R12RT make sure you practice changing the headlight bulb. It's a real bear, I can't do it without a pair of grabbers. With the grabbers I can do it in just a few minutes, without I'll slice up my hands get cranked want to install the bulb with a really big hammer.

I have tiny hands and long arms, so I think I can reach the bulbs easily enough (I'm the guy who reaches deep into the photocopier at work to free a paper jam; I can remove spark plugs from several in-line fours where it is reportedly "impossible" to do). Hell, there has to be some advantage to being scrawny!

I'll keep practicing though. It's one thing to change them in a garage full of tools under full light. I can think of some scenarios where it would be much less fun. Having an aux HID hooked up to the hi-beam and a switchable fog light should give me a backup if a bulb goes out in a bad place.

 

[D-Mac]

Ok folks......here goes. First round of modifications is complete. I have not ridden the bike yet, but everything seems to work.

Here is the bike apart (I put the GPSs on just to see if they'd fit).

Wiring the HID/fog lamps was pretty simple. I spent most of the time running wires. Everything else tucked under the front fairing or mounted up front. I'm not too thrilled with the mounting setup of the light brackets (instructions are a bit off here....must be a difference between the '09 and '10 versions of the RT). In the end, everything is mounted pretty solidly though. Installing the lights required pulling off a lot of plastic and the mirrors, mirror housings, and a few other bits (not shown here). I'm glad I decided to do these projects myself because I can now remove/replace all of the plastic bits in no time.

The HID is mounted on the left side and I tapped the relay into the high beam wire. The fog light (right side) is operated by a toggle switch, and it's also connected to a relay on the fuseblock (below) so that it won't stay on for more the 30 seconds when the bike is off.

Here is the relay for the HID lamp (plugged into the high-beam wire).

Here is the PC-8 fuseblock from Eastern Beaver with the cover removed. This box is AWESOME. Very well made. I got the 50amp option, so there's a lot of capacity to play with. Two spots are unswitched and the other 6 are rigged up the other to a switched power (in my case, I used the BMW GPS plug at the front of the bike, which BMW includes). The downside of using this switched source is that the switched power will come on BEFORE the bike is running (when the key is turned on so the park lights come on), although I can manually shut everything off if needed. The upside is that the power to this relay stays on for 30 seconds after the bike shuts off. I like having this extra time when I shut the bike off. It gives me time on my secondary GPS to decide if I want to go to its battery or not, and I can hit the fog light if needed without having to re-start the bike.

Here is a closer shot of the fuseblock with the cover on. I still have a couple of things to add to it. It looks a bit like a FLUX CAPACITOR! I left extra wiring in case I decide to move it a bit. You'll notice that the box is zip-tied in place for the moment. I plan to make a bracket that will bolt onto the hole between the seats (I think a suspension bolts there on the non-electronic suspension version of the RT). There is PLENTY of clearance for everything with the seats on the bike.

Plastic is on! I also mounted a set of ZTechnik engine guards (more on those below). It turns out it's MUCH easier to pull the lower tupperware to mount these things (plastic will fit over the top of the guards when you're done). I learned this the hard way by putting all the plastic on and THEN realizing I didn't have the right wrench to reach behind the fairing to put the guards on.....so off went the plastic again!

Here's a shot of my new Russell seat. It arrived last week. Feels very comfy and looks pretty good on the RT. I didn't have the passenger seat done since I rarely ride with anyone else. They just recovered it to match the front. I did retain the stock seat heaters. It does raise the seat about an inch over stock, so with it in the "low" position, I can barely reach the ground. I have just enough inseam to be able to walk the bike, but it's a stretch.

I also mounted a set of Ilium highway pegs to the ZTechnik guards. Here is a guard with a peg attached. The quality of the Ilium stuff is fantastic. The engine guards aren't perfectly symmetrical, but the pegs seem to work fine. I haven't ridden the bike yet, but I expect these will do the trick. The rubber part moves forward and back, which will be nice when I want to really stretch out.

Here is the same peg folded up. Very beefy pegs.

Something else I added. Additional reflector decals on the back.

Here are the decals in daylight (no flash). I also added a lower mudflap to the rear.

Here's what they look like when light reflects off of the decals (flash on). I am pleased.

Here's the cockpit. Dual GPSs. Zumo 450 and Zumo 665 (the 665 is new). I like to be able to reach them, so I've chosen to mount them close the me. I will mount the XM satellite receiver to the dash behind the windshield. I also routed the audio/mic plugs for the 665 back to the seat (so they come out just in front of the seat for easy plug-in to my jacket when needed).

Here's the front with the fog light on (it's more of a marker light really). I don't have one of the HID because I didn't start the bike.

Finished product.

Finished product with BMW tankbag.

More soon! I've ordered a few other things that should arrive later this week. I will try and get some pics tonight with the HID light on (if I can motivate myself to go out to the garage in a snowstorm.......)

 

[SteveAikens]

Looks good. What's your inseam?

 

[rob nye]

That looks great!

If I may suggest the top case is way too big, plus there is the risk of over filling it.

In the IBR light is right. It's easier on the bike (read final drive) and easier on you.

While it is a marathon you can ship stuff to checkpoints in advance, do camp style laundry along the way (that's why you want LD Comfort gear) and travel light.

Also, are your GPS units on switched power?

 

[D-Mac]

That looks great!

If I may suggest the top case is way too big, plus there is the risk of over filling it.

In the IBR light is right. It's easier on the bike (read final drive) and easier on you.

While it is a marathon you can ship stuff to checkpoints in advance, do camp style laundry along the way (that's why you want LD Comfort gear) and travel light.

Also, are your GPS units on switched power?

I agree that the topcase is huge. I actually tend to pack very light when it comes to clothes, although with spare parts and essential tools I might still bring the topcase to balance the weight better (overloading the side cases would slow me down too). If I do run the topcase, I hope to keep it fairly empty other than a netbook, laptop (gotta have a spare computer), and a few essential items for on the road. The extra mpg, greater stability, and easier on/offs the bike would be nice though. I do have a couple of very long rides to get to the start and home from the end to consider, so I don't want to be without a key tool/part.

Edit: You're motivating me to travel even lighter. My new challenge: run the IBR without a topcase! I'll need to buy more LD comfort stuff to make it work and lose the light jacket in favor of my all-in-one (master of none). Perhaps I can store more tools behind the seat too.....hmmm......

The Zumo 665 is on unswitched power. It would be a pain to lose my primary GPS at a gas stop because I wasn't paying attention. The Zumo 450 is on switched power with the 30 second delay (mainly because I only have 2 unswitched outlets).

 

[D-Mac]

Looks good. What's your inseam?

Missed your message on my last check.

Inseam is 32"

 

[SteveAikens]

That means there's no way one of us inseam challenged guys - 28" - has a chance of making that seat work for us.

Thanks

 

[rob nye]

I agree that the topcase is huge. I actually tend to pack very light when it comes to clothes, although with spare parts and essential tools I might still bring the topcase to balance the weight better (overloading the side cases would slow me down too). If I do run the topcase, I hope to keep it fairly empty other than a netbook, laptop (gotta have a spare computer), and a few essential items for on the road. The extra mpg, greater stability, and easier on/offs the bike would be nice though. I do have a couple of very long rides to get to the start and home from the end to consider, so I don't want to be without a key tool/part.

Edit: You're motivating me to travel even lighter. My new challenge: run the IBR without a topcase! I'll need to buy more LD comfort stuff to make it work and lose the light jacket in favor of my all-in-one (master of none). Perhaps I can store more tools behind the seat too.....hmmm......

The Zumo 665 is on unswitched power. It would be a pain to lose my primary GPS at a gas stop because I wasn't paying attention. The Zumo 450 is on switched power with the 30 second delay (mainly because I only have 2 unswitched outlets).

Sounds good. I'm curious as to what tools and spares you plan on carrying.

Last weekend I was with a buddy who I met at the 03 IBR, my first and his third. We recounted how for the two days before the start I'd burn off my nervous energy by constantly unpacking and repacking the bike. Part of the exercise was me trying to remember everything I wanted to bring and where it was going to live. To say I had too much crap would be a massive understatement.

For clothing I did the 07 rally with the following:

2pr LD comfort tights, 1pr ld comfort shorts, two Under Armor long sleeve T's, one short sleeve T, two pr synthetic socks, heated pant and jacket liners, riding gear. I also had one pair of "breakdown shorts" and a fleece vest. I fit all that in one police bag.

For tools I had a set of torx wrenches, a snap on multi screw driver, the appropriate wrenches, front tire tool and some basic electrical repair stuff.

For tires I had a stop n go kit with some extra gummy string, a pump and a gauge.

I also carried a rudimentary medical kit.

For rally gear it was one mil spec notebook, two cameras, a plastic box full of mechanical pencils, highlighters, a 10" piece of string marked every .25", a three ring binder with pencil pouch and a three ring press, tape, clamps, big flashlight, wet notes and my rally flag. I also had a small umbrella too.

I also carried a small ultra light therma-rest self inflating pad and a sleeping bag.

All of this went on a RTP with police bags which are less than half the size of the stock RTP panniers.

On a stock RT I'd put all my clothes and the spare netbook in the right saddlebag, tire kit, tools and medical in the left side and I'd use either a pelican case (preferred) or a smaller top case for the rally stuff. For the sleeping gear I'd carry it in a small dry bag on the pillion seat.

Light is right!

 

[D-Mac]

Rob,

I think we're getting on the same page here.

Here's what I'm thinking......I have no idea if this will fit or not (yet). I'm thinking of putting the essential repair stuff in the glove box since I don't need to haul it off the bike every day, but I'd like to be able to get to it quickly. My clothes/extra riding gear/backup electronics go in the left case, essential tools for the bike on the right side (assuming the weight is even), key rally stuff in the tankbag, and the next most important set of rally stuff (stuff that can get wet, including my camelbak setup) in a tailbag.

On bike:
Garmin Zumo 450 GPS
Garmin Zumo 665 GPS (with XM/Weather)
On bike windshield - general checklist to remember at each stop

Glovebox:
Mini Maglight (clipped to the underside of the lid)
Tire inflator and plug kit
Owner's manual
BMW Anonymous guide
Roll duct tape
Mini jumper cable adapter
Nitrile gloves (12 pr)
Mesh gloves

Left sidecase:
Kathy's sidecase bag
2 LDComfort shorts
2 LDComfort tights
4 quick-dry shirts (2 long, 2 short)
6 pairs of socks
Gerbings heated jacket liner and controller
2 pairs of quick-dry, roll-up pants
Backup SENA BlueTooth headset (earbuds) and on-bike charger, stereo cables
iPod
spare batteries (AA and AAA)
Backup camera
HT Overpants liner
Heavy waterproof gloves
Deerskin gloves
Regional paper maps of U.S./Canada (4-5 small maps)
Laptop computer with AC cable
Camera charger
other personal stuff (razor, deodorant, spare contact lenses)
GPS / camera cables
First-aid essentials (mini)

Right sidecase:
Kathy's sidecase bag
Parnes axle removal tool with breaker bar
Set of Torx bits
Set of Allen bits (including sizes for footpeg adjustment)
3/8" adapter and socket set (key sizes only, 8, 10 x2, 12, 19 mm)
1/2" 1/4" adapters (3)
Small can spray cleaner
1/2 qt engine oil with small funnel
Stock toolkit (oil filler cap remover, 2 torx wrenches)
Spare key
Needlenose pliers
large pliers
Wire cutter/stripper
posi-tap, posi-lock connectors (2 sizes - several of each)
Paper towel (small)
Electrical tape
Netbook computer with AC adapter
Snap-on multi screwdriver
Misc zip ties; string; wire
Spare bulbs
(likely need some soft stuff to take up the space here)

BMW Tankbag:
List of intended Bonuses
Misc items for securing rally flag (large clips, weights, pins, magnets, tape, string, etc.) Locate attachment points on bike too.
Rally flag
Screaming Meanie
EZ-Pass
Wallet / passport / "Green card" / bag of change for tolls
SPOT2
Roadside assistance cards/apps
LED headlamp
Main camera (waterproof)
iPhone (use as dictaphone?)
iPhone charger / Sena charger
Short-term food (on-the-go)
Pencils, highlighters, pens, notebook (in a case)
Bag for receipts, fuel log
Rally booklet (inside bag)
Sunglasses

Main gear to wear:
waterproof riding boots (SIDI On-Roads)
Nolan N-102 Helmet (no sunshade)
Firstgear HT Overpants
Er-6n earbuds, main stereo/mic cables, Sena bt headset
Firstgear Kilimanjaro jacket
Held Score gloves

Tail bag (maybe a small Motofizz bag?):
Camelbak
net for drying clothes (attached)
Main food hold....
Batteries (AA and AAA) (Lithium as well as regular)
Small personal kit (extra contact lenses, solution, glasses)
Sunblock, bug spray, lip balm
Spare bungie cords (misc, 2)
Bike cover
Seat cover
Disc lock
Tire gauge
GPS cases (and plastic cover for 665 base)
Cooling vest

Small dry bag:
Ultra-light therm-a-rest
a few extra t-shirts, a pair shorts (disposable, use as rags, etc.)

 

[rob nye]

Too much stuff! A few comments in your quoted text, more at the bottom too.

Remember that while the IBR is not a race while you are on the motorcycle it is a race while you are off. In other words if you are not riding, sleeping or collecting a bonus you are wasting time. Yup sitting in a restaurant is wasting time but at some point you gotta do it. I think I had a max of four sit-down meals in 05 and zero in 07 until my bike broke.

Every time you stop to "fix" something that's time you should have been sleeping, riding or collecting points, as such be prepared to only worry about fixing something that keeps you from doing any of the three primary functions. If the non critical stuff (music, phone calls etc) are important enough to you that you would feel compelled to try field fixes spend time and $$$ to make them as bullet proof as possible.

Rob,

I think we're getting on the same page here.

Here's what I'm thinking......I have no idea if this will fit or not (yet). I'm thinking of putting the essential repair stuff in the glove box since I don't need to haul it off the bike every day, but I'd like to be able to get to it quickly. My clothes/extra riding gear/backup electronics go in the left case, essential tools for the bike on the right side (assuming the weight is even), key rally stuff in the tankbag, and the next most important set of rally stuff (stuff that can get wet, including my camelbak setup) in a tailbag.

On bike:
Garmin Zumo 450 GPS
Garmin Zumo 665 GPS (with XM/Weather)
On bike windshield - general checklist to remember at each stop

Glovebox:
Mini Maglight (clipped to the underside of the lid)
Tire inflator and plug kit
Owner's manual Don't need it
BMW Anonymous guide
Roll duct tape
Mini jumper cable adapter
Nitrile gloves (12 pr) 12 pairs?
Mesh gloves

Left sidecase:
Kathy's sidecase bag
2 LDComfort shorts
2 LDComfort tights
4 quick-dry shirts (2 long, 2 short)
6 pairs of socks Six Pairs?
Gerbings heated jacket liner and controller
2 pairs of quick-dry, roll-up pants One pair shorts, wear over ld tights if you need leg coverage
Backup SENA BlueTooth headset (earbuds) and on-bike charger, stereo cables
iPod Is your set up so fragile you need such a back up or is it so vital that you'd stop the ride to fix it?
spare batteries (AA and AAA) See above, carry just one or two. You can buy batteries anywhere you can buy gas. The only place it is appropriate to start fiddling with stuff is at a truck stop, not at a remote bonus.
Backup camera
HT Overpants liner Is this to make the pants waterproof? Look for gear that you don't need to stop to waterproof when it starts to rain.
Heavy waterproof gloves
Deerskin gloves When it's hot are you going to wear the mesh or the ropers?
Regional paper maps of U.S./Canada (4-5 small maps)
Laptop computer with AC cable
Camera charger When are you going to sit still long enough to charge the camera? Simplify and get a camera that takes AA's.
other personal stuff (razor, deodorant, spare contact lenses)
GPS / camera cables
First-aid essentials (mini)

Right sidecase:
Kathy's sidecase bag
Parnes axle removal tool with breaker bar If you end up needing to mount a new tire it will be at a shop, not on the field.
Set of Torx bits
Set of Allen bits (including sizes for footpeg adjustment)
3/8" adapter and socket set (key sizes only, 8, 10 x2, 12, 19 mm)
1/2" 1/4" adapters (3)
Small can spray cleaner
1/2 qt engine oil with small funnel
Stock toolkit (oil filler cap remover, 2 torx wrenches)
Spare key
Needlenose pliers
large pliers Consider changing out the pliers for vise grips.
Wire cutter/stripper
posi-tap, posi-lock connectors (2 sizes - several of each)
Paper towel (small)
Electrical tape
Netbook computer with AC adapter
Snap-on multi screwdriver
Misc zip ties; string; wire
Spare bulbs
(likely need some soft stuff to take up the space here)

BMW Tankbag:
List of intended Bonuses
Misc items for securing rally flag (large clips, weights, pins, magnets, tape, string, etc.) Locate attachment points on bike too. Magnets? I suggest you bring a nice long piece of light line with a snap hook on the end. Attach one end to your flag. Put another short length of line on the other corner. LIne with hook should be 6' or longer, short side can be 3' or so. When you hang your flag on a fence, bike whatever clip it so something. When you need to take a shot of the bike simply open the topcase, put the top edge of the flag under the lid, close case and snap photo.. When you go for a hike to a bonus clip the flag to yourself. Remember the flag must be in every photo! Make that a habit, don't take a tour somewhere they take a photo of you on the tour and forget your flag. There may be a bonus where your flag isn't required, if there is you do not loose points for having the flag. Only exception is if the instruction specifically state do not have your flag in the photo. Can't say I've ever seen such instructions.
Rally flag
Screaming Meanie
EZ-Pass Mount this on the inside of the windshield
Wallet / passport / "Green card" / bag of change for tolls
SPOT2
Roadside assistance cards/apps
LED headlamp
Main camera (waterproof)
iPhone (use as dictaphone?)
iPhone charger / Sena charger
Short-term food (on-the-go)
Pencils, highlighters, pens, notebook (in a case)
Bag for receipts, fuel log
Rally booklet (inside bag)
Sunglasses

Main gear to wear:
waterproof riding boots (SIDI On-Roads)
Nolan N-102 Helmet (no sunshade)
Firstgear HT Overpants
Er-6n earbuds, main stereo/mic cables, Sena bt headset
Firstgear Kilimanjaro jacket
Held Score gloves

Tail bag (maybe a small Motofizz bag?):
Camelbak
net for drying clothes (attached)
Main food hold....
Batteries (AA and AAA) (Lithium as well as regular)
Small personal kit (extra contact lenses, solution, glasses) Listed twice
Sunblock, bug spray, lip balm
Spare bungie cords (misc, 2)
Bike cover
Seat cover
Disc lock
Tire gauge
GPS cases (and plastic cover for 665 base)
Cooling vest

Small dry bag:
Ultra-light therm-a-rest
a few extra t-shirts, a pair shorts (disposable, use as rags, etc.)

I suggest you reconsider where you are going to keep all your rally stuff, i.e. the flag, book, camera and receipts.

You will be tired. You will make mistakes. While you are moving or in a very quick stop you will be going in and out of your tankbag. If your ziplock baggie full of receipts goes poof you're out huge points. IMO the tankbag is only for stuff you need while on the go; faceshield cleaner, wallet, food, personal camera (can be the back up camera) lip balm, sun screen, glasses, etc. Wallet and passport should be in zippered compartment, a few emergency credit cards should be in an envelope in the topcase.

Most of the folks I know keep all their rally stuff in the topcase or a pelican case. Waterproof, secure and the only time it is opened is to process a bonus.

To tie this up all I offer should be taken as suggestions as to what works for *me*. Your mission is to take as much in from as many folks as possible and come up with a system that works for *you*. If you ride a second IBR you'll enjoy the benefit of experience and end up refining your system and hopefully share it with other riders.

 

[D-Mac]

Too much stuff! A few comments in your quoted text, more at the bottom too.

Remember that while the IBR is not a race while you are on the motorcycle it is a race while you are off. In other words if you are not riding, sleeping or collecting a bonus you are wasting time. Yup sitting in a restaurant is wasting time but at some point you gotta do it. I think I had a max of four sit-down meals in 05 and zero in 07 until my bike broke.

Every time you stop to "fix" something that's time you should have been sleeping, riding or collecting points, as such be prepared to only worry about fixing something that keeps you from doing any of the three primary functions. If the non critical stuff (music, phone calls etc) are important enough to you that you would feel compelled to try field fixes spend time and $$$ to make them as bullet proof as possible.



I suggest you reconsider where you are going to keep all your rally stuff, i.e. the flag, book, camera and receipts.

You will be tired. You will make mistakes. While you are moving or in a very quick stop you will be going in and out of your tankbag. If your ziplock baggie full of receipts goes poof you're out huge points. IMO the tankbag is only for stuff you need while on the go; faceshield cleaner, wallet, food, personal camera (can be the back up camera) lip balm, sun screen, glasses, etc. Wallet and passport should be in zippered compartment, a few emergency credit cards should be in an envelope in the topcase.

Most of the folks I know keep all their rally stuff in the topcase or a pelican case. Waterproof, secure and the only time it is opened is to process a bonus.

To tie this up all I offer should be taken as suggestions as to what works for *me*. Your mission is to take as much in from as many folks as possible and come up with a system that works for *you*. If you ride a second IBR you'll enjoy the benefit of experience and end up refining your system and hopefully share it with other riders.

Thank you Rob! All of your points all make sense. You noticed pretty much everything I've been debating (including the camera) and it's very obvious you've done this a lot! I see you also noticed my obsession with gloves (12 pairs is a bit much - even if they are small! Two makes more sense). Ditto with some of the tools (I was envisioning a situation where I might need a non-BMW dealer to pull the front wheel; even in that case I wouldn't need a huge breaker bar). I do plan to bring 4-6 pairs of socks. They take a while to dry properly in the wet and I like to change them a lot (for the sake of unsuspecting bystanders).

I'm also a big fan of Pelican cases. Any particular size you'd suggest? 1500? I guess I can just bolt it to the tail rack since I'm going to ditch the massive topcase. I could even put my netbook in there (great if I need to check something quickly). I tend to be a little OCD with receipts and bags, but I can see how it would be all too easy to lose a bag of receipts or the flag after several days of riding (especially in a large tankbag with food/water in it). Moving the rally stuff to a small topcase would also free up the tankbag for my camelbak and all of my food.

 

[SteveAikens]

Rob,

I think we're getting on the same page here.

<GASP!>

What size trailer are you pulling?

Seriously, it's about 11,000 miles. I understand reasonable preparedness, but I think you're really over-doing it.

You need to re-think this and trim that list way down.

 

[D-Mac]

<GASP!>

What size trailer are you pulling?

Seriously, it's about 11,000 miles. I understand reasonable preparedness, but I think you're really over-doing it.

You need to re-think this and trim that list way down.

LOL. I agree. It is a long list and it WILL get smaller. A lot of it is small stuff, and much of it packs into pretty much no space (e.g., the pants on the list fold up small enough to fit in your pocket....and they're good to over 100 degrees (ok, ok I'm making excuses again.....). I can forsee an electrical problem, which is something I can fix, so I'll take some of the electrical repair stuff (it fits into a zip-lock bag). If it's mechanical (beyond tightening a fastener), I'm likely gonna need a repair shop anyway. For everything else, there's duct tape!

I do find it very liberating to travel light. I'm used to traveling with almost nothing when I go to South America for field research. When we fly into the rainforest we have an 8lb limit per person (!) You'd think I'd have learned more from that experience. On my first bike (a cruiser) I could go for a week with just a pair of small saddlebags. The "problem" with the RT is that it has so much space. The natural tendency is to use all of it. It's so easy to say "maybe I will need that extra shirt" etc.

I've been looking at small Pelican case (1450 or 1500) to mount to the rear rack instead of the BMW topcase. As Rob says, it will be more for organization than anything else. Keeping the rally stuff separate from the other things will prevent me from losing things and having to dig around in tankbag for stuff.

I'm going to pile stuff and see how much room it occupies. Then I'll cut it down and try again.

Please keep your comments coming folks! It helps.

 

[hotspice]

You will be tired. You will make mistakes. While you are moving or in a very quick stop you will be going in and out of your tankbag. If your ziplock baggie full of receipts goes poof you're out huge points. IMO the tankbag is only for stuff you need while on the go; faceshield cleaner, wallet, food, personal camera (can be the back up camera) lip balm, sun screen, glasses, etc. Wallet and passport should be in zippered compartment, a few emergency credit cards should be in an envelope in the topcase.

Most of the folks I know keep all their rally stuff in the topcase or a pelican case. Waterproof, secure and the only time it is opened is to process a bonus.

First and formost, CONGRATS on making the draw!!

Just finding this post so a lot of good information has already been offered by Rob and others.

I agree with Rob on the tank bag use. You will not want to be fumbling around the tank bag at a bonus location to pull out the necessary gear. The tank bag will get cluttered and you will be adding stress to yourself which will effect your thougth process during the rally.

My top case consist of what is essentially a tray system. On top is the gear I might need for a bonus like camera, book that holds receipts and in the old days, Polaroids, and a point to secure a flag to. Under the tray was a laptop and any necessary ac/dc cables including a spare USB cable for the GPS's. And tucked at the very bottom (because I never planned on needing them) where photocopies of Drivers License, Passport, Insurance papers, Title, and a list of all Credit cards I carried and phone numbers of the issuing bank in case I have to call and cancel one because I misplaced it (I learned this the hard way).

Basically I try to keep the trunk area as free and easily accessible as possible because I know that when I open it I'm on the clock and I don't want to be fumbling around looking for my must have items.

One thing to do in preparing is practice, practice, practice your processes. You will get fatigued and you will have a lot of things going through your head at a bonus location. Practice the process of getting off the bike, getting the flag, getting camera and finally getting the bonus and returning everything to the bike. The last thing you want to do is return to your bike after climbing up 650 steps to get to the top of a fire tower only to realize that your flag is still at the top of the fire tower. And that's of course IF you realize you forgot it. The more you have yourself conditioned with a system, the less there is a chance of an error occuring under stress.

As you're doing the prep on your bike do the work with tools you carry. Can you do the work? If not then you might want to think about carrying that tool in case you have to do the same work during the rally. In 09 I stopped in Chicago at the checkpoint to offer encouragement to riders and lend a hand if needed. As it turned out a rider needed some help working on his bike. I don't recall what the work was but I do recall they didn't have the tool with them. We ended up borrowing the tool from another person there to got things buttoned up. Had the fix been required when the rider was alone, they would have been SOL.

And on hydration I agree that a camelback is not the way to go. Having that extra weight just adds to your fatigue. I use the KISS method when it comes to my hydration. I have a camelback bladder inside a insulated zip cover in a tail bag. It stays on the bike and a free cup of ice and a gallon of water at a gas station and it's full. That tail bag is kind of my root cellar on wheels. I carry my hydration pack, a bottle of Gatorade, a bottle of water, and food. When I'm out of munchies in my tank bag I rotate stuff from my tail bag to my tank bag. Food and water are the only reason to go into that area (except for spare maps) which also helps me stay organized.

 

[D-Mac]

First and formost, CONGRATS on making the draw!!

Just finding this post so a lot of good information has already been offered by Rob and others.

I agree with Rob on the tank bag use. You will not want to be fumbling around the tank bag at a bonus location to pull out the necessary gear. The tank bag will get cluttered and you will be adding stress to yourself which will effect your thougth process during the rally.

My top case consist of what is essentially a tray system. On top is the gear I might need for a bonus like camera, book that holds receipts and in the old days, Polaroids, and a point to secure a flag to. Under the tray was a laptop and any necessary ac/dc cables including a spare USB cable for the GPS's. And tucked at the very bottom (because I never planned on needing them) where photocopies of Drivers License, Passport, Insurance papers, Title, and a list of all Credit cards I carried and phone numbers of the issuing bank in case I have to call and cancel one because I misplaced it (I learned this the hard way).

Basically I try to keep the trunk area as free and easily accessible as possible because I know that when I open it I'm on the clock and I don't want to be fumbling around looking for my must have items.

One thing to do in preparing is practice, practice, practice your processes. You will get fatigued and you will have a lot of things going through your head at a bonus location. Practice the process of getting off the bike, getting the flag, getting camera and finally getting the bonus and returning everything to the bike. The last thing you want to do is return to your bike after climbing up 650 steps to get to the top of a fire tower only to realize that your flag is still at the top of the fire tower. And that's of course IF you realize you forgot it. The more you have yourself conditioned with a system, the less there is a chance of an error occuring under stress.

As you're doing the prep on your bike do the work with tools you carry. Can you do the work? If not then you might want to think about carrying that tool in case you have to do the same work during the rally. In 09 I stopped in Chicago at the checkpoint to offer encouragement to riders and lend a hand if needed. As it turned out a rider needed some help working on his bike. I don't recall what the work was but I do recall they didn't have the tool with them. We ended up borrowing the tool from another person there to got things buttoned up. Had the fix been required when the rider was alone, they would have been SOL.

And on hydration I agree that a camelback is not the way to go. Having that extra weight just adds to your fatigue. I use the KISS method when it comes to my hydration. I have a camelback bladder inside a insulated zip cover in a tail bag. It stays on the bike and a free cup of ice and a gallon of water at a gas station and it's full. That tail bag is kind of my root cellar on wheels. I carry my hydration pack, a bottle of Gatorade, a bottle of water, and food. When I'm out of munchies in my tank bag I rotate stuff from my tail bag to my tank bag. Food and water are the only reason to go into that area (except for spare maps) which also helps me stay organized.

Thanks for the suggestions. I agree about the Camelbak - it gets old wearing that thing after a day or two. My original plan was to store it in a tailbag (with food - similar to what you did), but now that I'm thinking about putting the rally gear in a Pelican case (mounted to the tail rack instead of using my big topcase; I would organize it similarly to how you keep your rally stuff) I could ditch the tail bag and just put the camelbak and food inside my tankbag instead.

Good idea about keeping a back-up license copy and credit card info somewhere. I also plan to store an extra credit card in a separate place in case the 'main' cards are lost.

 

[D-Mac]

I'm looking at getting a couple of these cameras (Vivitar 8400w). Cheap, waterproof/shockproof, can be used with gloves on, take AA batteries (with reportedly good battery life), flash included, use an SD card. About $70.

http://www.walmart.com/ip/Vivitar-8.1-MP-V8400/10981674

I'm getting one or two for work first. If they're any good I'll pick up a couple for the rally.

In the past I've used a Pentax Optio W30 (also waterproof). I've had battery problems with them though, and they don't take AA batteries. I've also used a couple of Canon Powershots, which are nice but fragile, and they have small buttons (they also don't take AAs).

IBR rules only allow you to shoot in 640x480, so I need to verify the Vivitar can shoot in that mode. Anything really fancy seems like overkill.

 

[rob nye]

Thank you Rob! All of your points all make sense. You noticed pretty much everything I've been debating (including the camera) and it's very obvious you've done this a lot! I see you also noticed my obsession with gloves (12 pairs is a bit much - even if they are small! Two makes more sense). Ditto with some of the tools (I was envisioning a situation where I might need a non-BMW dealer to pull the front wheel; even in that case I wouldn't need a huge breaker bar). I do plan to bring 4-6 pairs of socks. They take a while to dry properly in the wet and I like to change them a lot (for the sake of unsuspecting bystanders).

I'm also a big fan of Pelican cases. Any particular size you'd suggest? 1500? I guess I can just bolt it to the tail rack since I'm going to ditch the massive topcase. I could even put my netbook in there (great if I need to check something quickly). I tend to be a little OCD with receipts and bags, but I can see how it would be all too easy to lose a bag of receipts or the flag after several days of riding (especially in a large tankbag with food/water in it). Moving the rally stuff to a small topcase would also free up the tankbag for my camelbak and all of my food.

I'd size the pelican case so you can keep your laptop, flag, camera and all the rally stuff in their flat. It should be thick enough that all that stuff fits below the hinge. You can mount stuff to the underside of the lid and carry small padlocks to secure it. I kept my spare key taped to the underside of the lid, along with a spare cap to my aux fuel. I also have a pouch there which is where my flag lived. You should be able to open the case and use your laptop without removing it. Wrap the netbook in saran wrap, that's your backup computer.

Speaking on the netbook as a backup once you get all your routing and all that done don't forget to put the files on a USB drive. FWIW, I kept copies of all my software and data on a thumb drive that I wore around my neck for the entire rally. I carried a toughbook and my backup plan was to hit a best buy and purchase a netbook or borrow a laptop. This would only be an issue at a checkpoint, once all the waypoints are loaded on your GPS the fall back is paper, index cards and the GPS.

Speaking of index cards I like large orange cards with lines. A black sharpie really stands out on the orange and they're easy to find. No matter how digital you go write down the bonuses (by code) you plan on visiting, the mileage between them and your rough eta's on the card. If / when the poo hits the fan you can just go bonus to bonus off the index card and GPS.