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Harmonic Vibration

that's what BMW loves: consumer complacency

It's not much different than any other bike I've ridden. All the bikes I've ridden have a "buzzy spot", some are just in areas that are less likely to be in an area that might be used as much.
 
It's not much different than any other bike I've ridden. All the bikes I've ridden have a "buzzy spot", some are just in areas that are less likely to be in an area that might be used as much.

K16 don't, neither do Wings; I would guess that engineers could balance a boxer to be as smooth as a K16 but it might not be worth the money to them.

I had a C14 Kawi and an FJR which has a major high pitch buzz on the throttle...unbearable, I had to get rid of both.

The 2016 RT vibrated too much on the hwy (for me) to cross country.
 
K16 don't, neither do Wings; I would guess that engineers could balance a boxer to be as smooth as a K16 but it might not be worth the money to them.

I had a C14 Kawi and an FJR which has a major high pitch buzz on the throttle...unbearable, I had to get rid of both.

The 2016 RT vibrated too much on the hwy (for me) to cross country.
I've never ridden a 6 cyl. engined moto. But my understanding is that 6 cyl. motors, whether inline or v (designed as six, not v8 with two removed), are the smoothest of all (except 10 or 12.)

Having 6 moving pistons makes it much easier to balance - even 4 is much easier than 2.
 
I've never ridden a 6 cyl. engined moto. But my understanding is that 6 cyl. motors, whether inline or v (designed as six, not v8 with two removed), are the smoothest of all (except 10 or 12.)

Having 6 moving pistons makes it much easier to balance - even 4 is much easier than 2.

I don't know Rock, I thing the engineering savvy to make the boxer a smooth as silk on the hwy doing 90 is feasible...whether or not the marketeer would buy into the expense of creating such might be the reason why they are not smooth.
 
My 14 developed a little vibration which would go away if I pulled in the clutch.

I eventually discovered a notchy rear U-joint in the driveshaft.

If you have not yet pulled your driveshaft to inspect the splines for proper lubrication and corrosion I highly recommend you do so.
While you have the driveshaft out you can inspect the U-joints as well.

I'm told Ted Porter at the Beemer Shop has a replacement driveshaft with lubricatable U-Joints about ready for sale for less than the obscenely expensive and non-maintainable OEM driveshaft.

Good luck with your inspection.

These threads over on ADVRider are worth a few minutes of your time:

https://advrider.com/f/threads/r120...ive-change-and-spline-lube-pictorial.1129815/
https://advrider.com/f/threads/clunk-in-fd-of-13-gsw-at-56k-miles-oh-no.1131450/
 
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