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Radical Tall-Geared /2 Transmission

In 1969, there were no Japanese superbikes, and I wanted a BMW that would keep up with my pals' Nortons, Triumphs and Harleys. As a result, I build a VW-powered R60/2 that I still own and ride; it's smoother than stock, obviously very fast and still under 500 pounds..

More than an engine-transmission adaptor and frame mods, a tall-geared trans was essential to the success of this wacky project. While the stock /2 bike does about 4,000 rpm in 4th gear at 60 mph, I needed to cut that engine speed in half on the highway, both to keep it cool and to make good use of the extra torque. After researching BMW final drives, I was disappointed to learn there was nothing much taller, not even on the racing bikes.

As a result, I replaced the small drive gear on the transmission input shaft with a larger one (an extra 4th gear from the output shaft; changed the input gear ratio from 1.5:1 to about 1:1, making all four gears much taller). To do this, I had to relocate the cluster shaft so it was further from the input shaft, but was still the same distance from the output shaft (see attached "shafts" photo). To do this, I welded up the cluster bearing bores in the box and the cover, then re-bored them (see attached "cover" photo). I was lucky to use two excellent machinists, because the backlash on all the gears feels absolutely the same as stock! I wish I could take credit for this design, but it actually came from a guy who lived near Danbury, CT (can't recall his name).

In 50-plus years of riding this machine, the trans has been nearly bulletproof, despite transmitting 2-3 times the engine torque -- one bearing failure, which I caught before it did any major damage (I probably screwed up end play), and two spun output shaft flanges, the weak point of the gearbox. First, I replaced the keyed flange with the stronger non-keyed one, and now run a flange with two large keys, which has been fine for at least 20,000 miles now.

One postscript: initially, the new ratio of first gear was somewhere between the old second and third, which was tough to deal with in traffic. Somewhere I found a set of sidecar gears that use lower (higher numerically) first, second and third gears, which work well in this odd application. The result is a wide-ratio transmission that feels perfect from a stop light to about 145 mph. I know there are much faster bikes these days, but perhaps this project will help someone modifying a later BMW.
 

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Nice work! Takes some special machining to keep things nice and parallel. To be honest, though, not sure I'd want to 145 mph on a /2! Certainly not enough brakes for that! ;)
 
VW-Powered R60/2

Nice work! Takes some special machining to keep things nice and parallel. To be honest, though, not sure I'd want to 145 mph on a /2! Certainly not enough brakes for that! ;)



Yeah! After many tense times with the old drum brake, I ultimately installed the later telescopic fork with double discs. Not only does it stop well, I always thought that setup was sweet because the master cylinder is hidden under the tank, so the bars and cables appear stone-stock.
 
Nice work!

I have a question, though. I thought 50’s and 60’s beetles were 24-36-40hp, which should be close to R50-60s output, even though twice the displacement. I used to run my ‘62 beetle near wide open all the time, and it was no speed demon.

Did you do much to the engine as well?

This reminds me of the Amazonas bikes of the 70’s … They were beasts!
 
VW-Powered R60/2

The bike weighs maybe 1/4 of a Beetle, but the VW engine is only about 50 pounds heavier. I recall my stock bike weighed maybe 435 pounds, and with the VW engine, it was about 485. And, that extra weight was way down low in the frame, which made it even more stable (never a high-speed wobble).

I didn't get the bike engine on a dyno, but I assume with some mods, it was 70-80 hp. While that's only double the original bike, its torque was perhaps triple. I built essentially a short-stroke 1500 engine -- a 1200 crankshaft and rods with 1600 pistons, so I could trim the cylinder barrels by about a half inch and make the engine as short as possible (I think it's only about 1 1/2 inches wider than a stock R60). As an aside, the larger 1600 piston pins fit into the 1200 rods without pin bushings almost perfectly (I put a brake cylinder hone through the rods a few times to get the clearance right).

The first engine version used the standard Bing motorcycle carbs, but of course it was way under-carbureted. Right now, I'm running twin side-draft, two-barrel Solex carburetors with air cleaners tucked under the tank (looks almost period-correct). However, the best setup I used for years was the first VW fuel injection system called MPC, with a Type III intake manifold. Throttle response and starting was great, but its rotary fuel pump eventually failed. They're hard to find these days without paying cubic dollars, so I went back to carbs. Also, the injectors stuck out past the valve covers, which I always thought looked silly. If I ever run out of restoration projects, I envision another FI system using a fabricated manifold with four up-stream injectors hidden under the tank. It's been fun using the bike as an engineering test bed.
 
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VW-Powered R60/2

Thanks, Kurt! What a great story!

I've never met Duane , although I feel I have, because I've taken a lot of his excellent advice. Is he still around? If so, I'm guessing he's about 80.

Regards, Fred
 
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