Blew Spark Plug out of 2002 R 1150 GSA

[SquareDoc]

My bike started to run funny in that when I gave it gas there would be a delay before it would start revving up. I only put about 10 miles on it and then when I gave it gas the left cylinder spark plug blew out. I limped home 3 blocks and found out that the plug threads were enlarged such that I could push a spark plug all the way in till the washer mated to the sealing surface and thus, it is going to require a Time-sert or Helicoil. I tried searching for a thread on performing spark plug thread repair but did not find anything. So thought I would post this and see what experience others have had performing this repair. I will perform the repair without removing the head since it should be easy to use grease to minimize any aluminum falling into the engine and then some blowing out with high pressure air should get anything that might fall into the cylinder. So what experience have others had with using different spark plug repair technology?

If there are some existing threads on this topic, please let me know how to find them.

Thanks

 

[Omega Man]

I don't think its fatal.
Here is a thread- https://forums.bmwmoa.org/showthread.php?42572-R1100-cylinder-stud-hole-thread-repair
At the bottom of the thread, there are three "tags" which will let you read a bit deeper.
Good luck.
OM

 

[copbike]

The best way

I have a lot of experience with bad spark plug threads in heads. In my VW and Porsche rebuilding days I used to see a lot of bad ways to do it (2,800 engines) that would come across the workbench. But, the absolute best way to put new threads in a head is with a helicoil. It can be easily done with the engine complete... that is, without tearing any of it down. Afterwards, the engine is cranked over and all the shavings that might have gotten into the cylinder are instantly blown out. The new threads should be cut with the helicoil tap DRY... that is, no grease or lube. It is of no concern if the dry shavings fall into the cylinder, for just cranking over the engine does a wonderful job of blowing it all out (if dry). Makes for better threads than new when done on an aluminum head. I have done it on old aircraft engines, chain saws, and even a few Corvair engines that were destined for aircraft (in a Pietenpol). Even did it on all 4 holes of a 912 Porsche. Easy peasy.
I would suggest that if you do it yourself, you find some old head (like an air cooled VW, but really almost anything will do.) and practice it. Any decent mechanic with helicoil experience can do it in a snap. Used to be, you could buy a Helicoil kit... It would have the tap, some Helicoil inserts, and a tube-like tool that actually grabbed the Helicoil insert as you twisted it into the new thread. Must be the same nowadays, I am sure.

 

[dieselyoda]

I have a lot of experience with bad spark plug threads in heads. In my VW and Porsche rebuilding days I used to see a lot of bad ways to do it (2,800 engines) that would come across the workbench. But, the absolute best way to put new threads in a head is with a helicoil. It can be easily done with the engine complete... that is, without tearing any of it down. Afterwards, the engine is cranked over and all the shavings that might have gotten into the cylinder are instantly blown out. The new threads should be cut with the helicoil tap DRY... that is, no grease or lube. It is of no concern if the dry shavings fall into the cylinder, for just cranking over the engine does a wonderful job of blowing it all out (if dry). Makes for better threads than new when done on an aluminum head. I have done it on old aircraft engines, chain saws, and even a few Corvair engines that were destined for aircraft (in a Pietenpol). Even did it on all 4 holes of a 912 Porsche. Easy peasy.
I would suggest that if you do it yourself, you find some old head (like an air cooled VW, but really almost anything will do.) and practice it. Any decent mechanic with helicoil experience can do it in a snap. Used to be, you could buy a Helicoil kit... It would have the tap, some Helicoil inserts, and a tube-like tool that actually grabbed the Helicoil insert as you twisted it into the new thread. Must be the same nowadays, I am sure.

Argument for never-seize??

I have used a few different versions of spark plug thread repair methods. Heli-coil sells a kit that looks very similar to a Time-sert kit. I really like that one but read the instructions!

Damn, i should follow my own advice occasionally.

 

[copbike]

I am not familiar with that

I know about Helicoil, but I am very unfamiliar with Time sert. I have to admit, the last time I inserted a Helicoil was in 1992 on a 3 cylinder Westerbeke generator that I had on my sailboat. Can someone tell me about this newer product? I am always out to learn. Lee Davis

 

[SHAG]

I know about Helicoil, but I am very unfamiliar with Time sert. I have to admit, the last time I inserted a Helicoil was in 1992 on a 3 cylinder Westerbeke generator that I had on my sailboat. Can someone tell me about this newer product? I am always out to learn. Lee Davis

https://www.bing.com/images/search?q=time+sert+kit&qpvt=time+sert+kit

 

[dieselyoda]

In my mind, the traditional Heli-coil is a spring inserted into new oversize threads. That gives you new threads back to original.

A Time-sert is a sleeve, screwed into the new oversized threads. A better solution than traditional Heli-coil in my opinion but requires very good tools and zero forgiveness for mistakes.

Heli-coil makes kits, all the tools, good instruction for spark plug thread repair. You need to buy the kit for the original threads, the required depth and length of threads. They are a bit $$ and you have to have precise measurements.

I have used them a few times. Happy, very happy with the results except for one, my first one. I didn't really understand the instructions until I went FUBAR and then I understood the instructions.

 

[copbike]

OK... I know what that is

OK, I know what a Time Sert is. That technology has been around for many years, and in the 70s was what I referred to as one of the "bad ways" to do it. It had a different name back then, but was exactly the same. I would receive engines in exchange and many times they would have an insert. We would scrap the head, for the chance of an insert blowing out was what made the head a bad investment. Helicoils are really the only way to go, for they cannot strip out like a plug or insert.

 

[Omega Man]

Time-Sert- http://www.timesert.com

Heli-Coil- http://www.stanleyengineeredfastening.com/brands/heli-coil/screw-thread-inserts

I've never used a Time-Sert......Used a Hell-coil deal in a fashion, most likely not approved, quite some time ago.

I did have a GMC pick-up that, for some reason, channeled all the possible rust potential to the spark plugs which would release the porcelain leaving a hole in the spark plug base that no wrench could grab. About every 300 miles it would spit one out. I developed my own way to deal with it

The technology and user instructions seem to have come a long way. I don't know what is best.

OM