Another "oil" thread-- thoughts?

[brownie0486]

I own a 2011RT camhead and had owned a 2012GS prior.

Scenario: Cant life the bike onto the center stand, want to check oil in sight glass [ sight glass is on the port side/side stand side ].

I asked a well known boxer guru over on Advrider when I had the GS what he recommended for my situation back then in a PM. He replied and I quote him here

"On level ground, sidestand, wait 5 minutes and look. If the whole window is covered, ride. If you see any air (clear parts), add 8 ounces and ride"

That's 1/4 qt of oil if I see any "air" in the sight glass, and that's what I've been doing on both the former 12GS and now the 11RT. I asked my masgter mechanic the same question with the others advice above. He smiled and said that is perfectly acceptable Brownie. Both that GS and my RT use about 1/2 qt per 2K miles [ which my mechanic tells me is fairly normal on that motor and usually diminishes or stops after one reaches 45-50K miles on the motor ]

What are members thoughts on the advice?

 

[Omega Man]

Yeah, I find getting the bike up on the center stand to do any work a chore.
For your consideration, when I need to get the bike on the center stand, here is a trick I use.
I select the appropriate thickness of wood, usually 3/4” to 1”, in short pieces and set them just behind the front and rear wheels. As I bring the bike rearward, as it gets up on the boards, I deploy the center stand as usual.
The extra started height of the bike really helps. A good grab point helps as well. I used to use a short “endless” sling wrapped around an appropriate spot on the frame as a “grab” point but have switched to the really nice, although expensive, folding lift handle from Wunderlich.
Probably removing the luggage would help but………

OM

 

[brownie0486]

Yeah, I find getting the bike up on the center stand to do any work a chore.
For your consideration, when I need to get the bike on the center stand, here is a trick I use.
I select the appropriate thickness of wood, usually 3/4” to 1”, in short pieces and set them just behind the front and rear wheels. As I bring the bike rearward, as it gets up on the boards, I deploy the center stand as usual.
The extra started height of the bike really helps. A good grab point helps as well. I used to use a short “endless” sling wrapped around an appropriate spot on the frame as a “grab” point but have switched to the really nice, although expensive, folding lift handle from Wunderlich.
Probably removing the luggage would help but………

OM

3/4-1" pieces of wood, got it. I'd heard someone mention this before, and forgot about that recommendation. Unlikely going to have that option while on a multi week trip though.

Double the width of the tire on the wood? Would 5"x5" pieces work? I've got a buddy that has all kinds of scrap wood in his woodworking shop. Thanks for this reminder. Great idea when I'm home, thanks

 

[52184]

I own a 2011RT camhead and had owned a 2012GS prior.

Scenario: Cant life the bike onto the center stand, want to check oil in sight glass [ sight glass is on the port side/side stand side ].

I asked a well known boxer guru over on Advrider when I had the GS what he recommended for my situation back then in a PM. He replied and I quote him here

"On level ground, sidestand, wait 5 minutes and look. If the whole window is covered, ride. If you see any air (clear parts), add 8 ounces and ride"

That's 1/4 qt of oil if I see any "air" in the sight glass, and that's what I've been doing on both the former 12GS and now the 11RT. I asked my masgter mechanic the same question with the others advice above. He smiled and said that is perfectly acceptable Brownie. Both that GS and my RT use about 1/2 qt per 2K miles [ which my mechanic tells me is fairly normal on that motor and usually diminishes or stops after one reaches 45-50K miles on the motor ]

What are members thoughts on the advice?

No advice, just an observation that it might be worthwhile to investigate the breather system on the newer engines to see what impact an overfill might have. With the airheads, a lot of the “oil consumption” that riders complained about went away when they stopped filling to “full” on the dipstick and kept the oil level 2-3mm below that mark. High rpm operation on those bikes could result in oil being captured by the breather system. The breather system on those bikes dumped its output into the airbox, ostensibly to be run through the combustion system but oftentimes ending up drooling down the (usually) RH intake tube. Potentially a source of some minimal top-end lubing but also a potential source of increased carbon buildup.

Airheads were 2qt systems and running them slightly below the mark never hurt anything, and for many reduced their oil consumption. The newer boxer designs are (roughly) 4qt systems; being down even a quart still leaves enough oil to be safe.

I haven’t researched the breather setups on the newer boxer iterations, but it may be worth doing. There is, after all, engineering somewhere at BMW that insists on including “Nicht Uber MAX” on so many fill points and documentation.

Best,
DeVern

 

[Omega Man]

3/4-1" pieces of wood, got it. I'd heard someone mention this before, and forgot about that recommendation. Unlikely going to have that option while on a multi week trip though.

Double the width of the tire on the wood? Would 5"x5" pieces work? I've got a buddy that has all kinds of scrap wood in his woodworking shop. Thanks for this reminder. Great idea when I'm home, thanks

You will have to to experiment with sizes. Chances are a check before your ride/trip while you are home will do it?
If you were thinking of carrying some “wood” with you, you could look at PVC vinyl trim such as Azek or Veranda brands. They are stable, relatively light and easy to clean.
I would think you would need around a foot of length but it could be 2-6” pieces for each wheel. As for with, I would think 6” wide would also be needed.
Some asphalt (or concrete) parking areas have a depressed “trough” for water runoff in which the center stand could be “landed” in as well.
OM

 

[kbasa]

It feels like the question is whether "any air" requires a full 8 oz to get to "full".

Why not take a look at it on the sidestand, get a helper to put it on the centerstand to verify what "any air" on the sidestand aligns with when the bike is on the centerstand and go from there?

Seems like getting a solid "this = that" kind of understanding between side and center stand readings would be helpful as a starting point.

 

[robsryder]

...With the airheads, a lot of the “oil consumption” that riders complained about went away when they stopped filling to “full” on the dipstick and kept the oil level 2-3mm below that mark. High rpm operation on those bikes could result in oil being captured by the breather system. The breather system on those bikes dumped its output into the airbox, ostensibly to be run through the combustion system but oftentimes ending up drooling down the (usually) RH intake tube. ..

I have only owned my 93 R100GS/PD for about 30 years and I seem to always forget to stop filling BEFORE full (i.e., top mark) on the dipstick. The bike "likes" to be just about the mid-point on the dipstick. The extra bit of oil is "shed" via the breather. However, on my GS/PD the breather exit is more towards the left intake tube. I know this because a smidge of oil will drip onto the shift lever and then provide a light coating of oil on my left boot. The left boot is nice and waterproof.

Should I swap left and right boots so that my right boot will also become more waterproof?

 

[20774]

Just FYI on Airhead PCV valves... It does seem like the oil can be whipped up if the oil volume is too high. When the pistons come down to BDC that pulse of air/oil mist has to go somewhere. Early on the valve dumped it into the right carb intake...later it was split to each carb.

Note, too, some oils might have some of the additives "burned off"...better quality oils tended to minimize that.

 

[brownie0486]

It feels like the question is whether "any air" requires a full 8 oz to get to "full".


Why not take a look at it on the sidestand, get a helper to put it on the centerstand to verify what "any air" on the sidestand aligns with when the bike is on the centerstand and go from there?

Seems like getting a solid "this = that" kind of understanding between side and center stand readings would be helpful as a starting point.

Won't matter if it's a little over or under according to both master bmw mechanics I've spoken to. Hence the reason I'm just going to add the 8 ounces if there's air in the sight glass. If either told me it mattered and the motor couldn't handle any overage, I'd be following a different routine.

I find it quite easy to check the sight glass every 3-4 days on a trip [ which normally would mean 1600 to 2K miles ]. Air? add the 8 and keep riding as both mechanics have advised. They think I'm too anal about oil levels, the boxer can handle some over filled and under filled from the recommended level. At least on my camheads anyway.

On the 16RS, the glass is on the opposite side so standing the bike up straddling it and using a small collapsible mirror works well. I can't see the sight glass straddling the bike with the RT even with a mirror. Gotta get on my hands and knees with a flashlight to see it most times.

 

[pglaves]

Some oil is better than no oil.
Good oil is better than bad oil.
New Oil is better than old oil.

(End of thread hijack)

 

[brownie0486]

Some oil is better than no oil.
Good oil is better than bad oil.
New Oil is better than old oil.

(End of thread hijack)

 

[Paul_F]

I once put a lowered shock on my K only to find it impossible to put it on the centre stand. I placed a half inch piece of wood on the garage floor and parked the rear tire on it. It then became easy to get the K onto the centre stand. Finally found a mechanic who lowered the centre stand and now no wood is needed.

 

[Paul_F]

Why not take a look at it on the sidestand, get a helper to put it on the centerstand to verify what "any air" on the sidestand aligns with when the bike is on the centerstand and go from there?

Seems like getting a solid "this = that" kind of understanding between side and center stand readings would be helpful as a starting point.

What Kbasa says makes sense. Although I do not have a problem getting either bike onto their centre stands, that is not the case when travelling with my one wheel trailer. For the past ten years, with the trailer attached, I use my knowledge of where the correct oil level is when on the side stand.

Another option might exist. Although BMW states that the stands require lubrication every 10,000 kms, I find that part way through that interval the bikes can be a bit more difficult to place on their centre stands. That problem is resolved by lubricating both stands, even though it is not the recommended service interval. Although you do not service the bikes yourself Brownie, stand lubrication is a simple task that you might consider to see if that would help with your centre stand issue.

 

[brownie0486]

What Kbasa says makes sense. Although I do not have a problem getting either bike onto their centre stands, that is not the case when travelling with my one wheel trailer. For the past ten years, with the trailer attached, I use my knowledge of where the correct oil level is when on the side stand.

Another option might exist. Although BMW states that the stands require lubrication every 10,000 kms, I find that part way through that interval the bikes can be a bit more difficult to place on their centre stands. That problem is resolved by lubricating both stands, even though it is not the recommended service interval. Although you do not service the bikes yourself Brownie, stand lubrication is a simple task that you might consider to see if that would help with your centre stand issue.

Interesting, thanks. I can lube the stands easily enough. Of course the center stand hasn't been used except by my mechanic or an emergency visit to a dealer while on tour [ maybe twice a year ]. I'm thinking that could use a good lubing for sure. Any type of lube you'd suggest? WD40 sorta draw dust and grit, not sure I want to use that.


Between this suggestion and the block of wood under the rear tire trick, I'll get a neighbor over to stand by while I try to bring it up onto the center stand. Once I know I'm good to go, it's something I can start doing while it resting at home in the garage.

Thanks

 

[Paul_F]

Interesting, thanks. I can lube the stands easily enough. Of course the center stand hasn't been used except by my mechanic or an emergency visit to a dealer while on tour [ maybe twice a year ]. I'm thinking that could use a good lubing for sure. Any type of lube you'd suggest? WD40 sorta draw dust and grit, not sure I want to use that.


Between this suggestion and the block of wood under the rear tire trick, I'll get a neighbor over to stand by while I try to bring it up onto the center stand. Once I know I'm good to go, it's something I can start doing while it resting at home in the garage.

Thanks

Correction; I used a one inch piece of wood.

View attachment 93644

Got this a Max BMW years ago. used it until I had grease nipples installed on the Oilhead's centre stand. As far as grease is concerned, never thought much about it. Just bought a tube of grease at the local auto parts store and used with both bikes but since you brought this up, I will investigate to see if there is a difference in greases; thinner might be best.

Cheers!

Paul

 

[lee]

. I can't see the sight glass straddling the bike with the RT even with a mirror. .

In your garage try propping a mirror on the floor at the correct angle to see the site glass.
Does the fairing lower get in the way?
This will not work on a trip.

 

[Paul_F]

Better image

 

[lee]

Better imageView attachment 93645View attachment 93645

 

[52184]

In your garage try propping a mirror on the floor at the correct angle to see the site glass.
Does the fairing lower get in the way?
This will not work on a trip.

The sight glass on my ‘04 K1200GT was buried inside the fairing lower, so I carried in the tankbag a small mirror from a compact, and a small flashlight. Bike on centerstand, lay over the seat from the left side and hold the mirror down by the fairing port then shine the flashlight on the mirror. This worked well anywhere, but likely doesn’t help the OP much as the difficulty in centerstanding the bike was mentioned.

Another option is just turning on your cellphone video cam and taking a short video of the sight glass.

Best,
DeVern

 

[pauls1150]

Without grease fittings, instead of WD-40, try chain lube... many varieties out there.
That Wurth 2000 looks good too.