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On my 91 75RT when the kill switch is activated , the lights in the cluster are off.
I would replace the four pin connector and eliminate the the possibility of it being your problem. If it works after that I would and your spark returns and fuel pump works then I guess that connector could affect the spark also.
The manipulating of that connector seems to be a common denominator in the no spark & No fuel issue.
I would also be prepared to investigate the HES as Paul suggests, its not his first rodeo ya know. That connector could very well carry the ground circuit for the HES.
The HES connects to the ignition box, not the fuel tank connector. No HES wiring passes through the connector.
The four wires in the fuel tank connector include two fuel-level wires, one of which goes to the cluster, and the other to the "connector for additional instruments," power (from the FI relay, through fuse 6), and ground. If you have a problem with the connector, it is with the power or ground wires. Neither touches the HES or the ignition box. I'm very skeptical of this connector being able to affect spark; if you have a common cause it's earlier in the circuit. If you have a separate spark problem and fuel problem, the fuel component of the problem could well be here.
Thanks guys for sticking with me through this.
When the fault occurred the other night - I pushed the starter button and the starter motor whirred it's heart out with no fuel pump whine and not a sputter from the engine.
Then - standing beside the bike - I unplugged the tank without jostling or even touching the tank itself and pushed the starter again. This time the bike sputtered .
Clearly I had no spark before I unplugged the tank - and clearly I did have spark after I unplugged the tank.
James - I absolutely agree it doesn't make sense - but it was clearly observed. Furthermore - I had a similar thng happen last week during troubleshooting - although I didn't recognize what was happening at the time.
Here's the theory - the hot G/W wire going in to the fuel tank is shorting to ground inside the white molded plastic base of the fuel level sender. That G/W comes from the fuse panel which is fed from a G/R wire from the fuel injection relay. The ignition control unit also connects to the fuel injection relay - through the Y/Br wire and it's possible that the short is travelling to the spark box through that wire.
I have the FI relay on my desk in front of me - -it looks good physically and the contacts don't look burned. Unfortunately - a new one is 3-4 weeks away through my local supplier and it's not cross reference-able to anything off-the-shelf.
I spent the morning trying to agree that it's a kill switch problem and that the lights on the dash could somehow stay on even though this switch was failing - but I just couldn't get there. Furthermore - the starter button works just like normal and if there's one thing that won't work without a good kill switch - it's the starter button.