roborider
God? What god?
The rear wheel is off and the bearings removed. One of the bearing races came out w/o heat, which is bad. They are supposed to be held in by the normal contraction of the heated hub around a frozen race, and then require heat to remove.
I read a lot about it on line, and I will use red locktite to glue in the race. But, this makes it close to impossible to remove the race in the future. Therefore, I'll buy new bearings since these are a bit used, pitted, and rusted. That way, once it is together, I should be done with it for the rest of its life, at least its life with me.
The drive gear on the wheel hub (that mates to the final drive gear) is worn. I think I will let it slide for now. They are still available for about $85 which is nice. If the trans and clutch work out well, and it runs well, I'll likely drop a new one on at that time. The teeth are getting pretty bad, I'll post a picture later.
Has anyone replaced this gear on the hub? I see it is riveted on. I can buy the rivets, too, but don't really have any means to use them. I was thinking proper diameter grade 8 bolts would work just as well. I figure if I mated the parts on the bike to hold the position, I could bolt the hub in place and use red locktite to make it permanent.
Here is the inner spacer on the lathe. I read that if you reduce the diameter a slight amount, it will go in and out without having to remove the bearing races. Since I don't want to remove them ever again, I did the reduction. Yeah, it's a wood lathe, but on low speed, for light metal, it works fine. It fit into the drive chuck perfectly, and the conical tail chuck holds it well and centered. I need to reduce the diameter of the two thin disc like ridges. The one on the left was too close to the head drive chuck so I put on an O-ring to push it away from the chuck so I could turn it down a fraction with the gouge. Worked perfectly. New bearings are on order and will have them by the weekend.
Wife wants to go to a Cirque du Soleil show, but all I want to do is be in the shop.
I read a lot about it on line, and I will use red locktite to glue in the race. But, this makes it close to impossible to remove the race in the future. Therefore, I'll buy new bearings since these are a bit used, pitted, and rusted. That way, once it is together, I should be done with it for the rest of its life, at least its life with me.
The drive gear on the wheel hub (that mates to the final drive gear) is worn. I think I will let it slide for now. They are still available for about $85 which is nice. If the trans and clutch work out well, and it runs well, I'll likely drop a new one on at that time. The teeth are getting pretty bad, I'll post a picture later.
Has anyone replaced this gear on the hub? I see it is riveted on. I can buy the rivets, too, but don't really have any means to use them. I was thinking proper diameter grade 8 bolts would work just as well. I figure if I mated the parts on the bike to hold the position, I could bolt the hub in place and use red locktite to make it permanent.
Here is the inner spacer on the lathe. I read that if you reduce the diameter a slight amount, it will go in and out without having to remove the bearing races. Since I don't want to remove them ever again, I did the reduction. Yeah, it's a wood lathe, but on low speed, for light metal, it works fine. It fit into the drive chuck perfectly, and the conical tail chuck holds it well and centered. I need to reduce the diameter of the two thin disc like ridges. The one on the left was too close to the head drive chuck so I put on an O-ring to push it away from the chuck so I could turn it down a fraction with the gouge. Worked perfectly. New bearings are on order and will have them by the weekend.
Wife wants to go to a Cirque du Soleil show, but all I want to do is be in the shop.