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Driving light gone, low beam no work

craydds

Member
Lost the left side factory BMW Driving Light while off-roading. Didn't realize it was gone until back on the highway. Saw the yellow warning light, pulled over to investigate. Driving light GONE, but the LOW BEAM headlight does not work.
1. Is it just coincidental that the low beam doesn't work.
2. Does the factory BMW Driving Light harness have an effect on the headlight circuit? Did the incident throw a code? I have a GS-911.
3. The BMW lights instructions says to "install and enable only by authorized BMW dealer. What does "enable" mean?
Because I have lost one of the lights, I plan to completely remove the entire system. I will "dis-enable" the system.
Then I will install Clearwater Darlas in place of the BMW light. I already have the Erikas so the wiring for the Darlas is ready to go.
Your tips on "dis-installing" the BMW lights are much appreciated.
 
Have lost the low on 2014 and 2020 RT but never had driving/fog lights go. Was told there was no repair of the BMW lights, the low beam bulb replacement cleared the dash symbol.
 
the low beam bulb replacement cleared the dash symbol.
I haven't worked on the bike yet, but I suspect the low beam bulb is good. I think the loss of the driving light has caused a fault in the low beam circuit. I hope to hear from the gurus that have installed and/or removed the BMW Driving Lights.
 
I haven't worked on the bike yet, but I suspect the low beam bulb is good. I think the loss of the driving light has caused a fault in the low beam circuit. I hope to hear from the gurus that have installed and/or removed the BMW Driving Lights.

I don't believe they are on the same circuit. My 14R1200RT didn't come with factory installed auxiliary lights (wasn't an option at the time) I installed them (BMW lights) but needed to return to the dealer to activate.
 
I haven't worked on the bike yet, but I suspect the low beam bulb is good. I think the loss of the driving light has caused a fault in the low beam circuit. I hope to hear from the gurus that have installed and/or removed the BMW Driving Lights.

I think that the off road that broke your driving light also was enough vibration that your low beam bulb went too. If the low beam bulb was close to end of life, the vibrations from the rough road certainly could have finished it off.
 
but needed to return to the dealer to activate.

I read that the installation required "enabling" by the dealership. I wonder what is involved in the enabling process? I wonder what needs to be done after I un-install the driving lights? Deactivate?
 
I think that the off road that broke your driving light also was enough vibration that your low beam bulb went too. If the low beam bulb was close to end of life, the vibrations from the rough road certainly could have finished it off.

Seems likely. Just a double-whamy of bad luck at the same time. I will buy a low beam bulb.
 
I read that the installation required "enabling" by the dealership. I wonder what is involved in the enabling process?

Well it used to be that devices like lights were controlled with switches and wires. Then it became common to control devices with little computers connected by the CANBUS. Here in this Forum we argue whether a problem is the CANBUS or the ZFE, or PDQ, or ECU, or WTF, or some other three letter something.

So I think "enabling" by the mothership means they hook one of your little computers up to the dealership's bigger computer to teach your computer how to do what an on-off switch used to do.
 
Well it used to be that devices like lights were controlled with switches and wires. Then it became common to control devices with little computers connected by the CANBUS. Here in this Forum we argue whether a problem is the CANBUS or the ZFE, or PDQ, or ECU, or WTF, or some other three letter something.

So I think "enabling" by the mothership means they hook one of your little computers up to the dealership's bigger computer to teach your computer how to do what an on-off switch used to do.

I wonder if I'll have to take my bike to the stealership to it deactivated?
 
Gone Baby, Gone?

Do you mean your left side OEM "auxillary" light unit fell off the bike, or the LED lamp in the unit doesn't work anymore?
I have a '16 RT that I installed the "auxillary" LED lights on, so here is what I think and/or know.

1. Is it just coincidental that the low beam doesn't work. - Probably, because the low beam lamps are a piece of %*^ and you were riding off-road. They rarely last more than 10,000 miles when on the highway only and many not even that long.
2. Does the factory BMW Driving Light harness have an effect on the headlight circuit? Did the incident throw a code? I have a GS-911. - No affect on the headlight circuits because of the "auxillary" light being "gone". They are completely different circuits because the auxillary lamps can be present or not, and turned on or off at will. The headlights (high and/or low) being burned out do throw a code and illuminate the warning triangle. Speaking of harnesses, if your light IS still attached to the bike have you checked whether the LED lamp isn't working because the modular clip on the harness to the back of the unit has been shaken loose. I'm not sure about a "code" for the auxillary light being "gone", but who cares, you're going to remove them. The code for the high/low headlights when fixed should go away as should the triangle when the bulbs are replaced - but leave a "not present now" status that can be cleared with your GS-911.
3. The BMW lights instructions says to "install and enable only by authorized BMW dealer. What does "enable" mean? - As others have pointed out, only the dealership can "enable" (activate the circuit in the electronics) via their Motherland computer, not your GS-911. I have no idea if it needs to be "de-activated" by the dealer or not to keep the triangle on the dash from bugging you. In my case, installing the OEM "auxillary" lights didn't throw any codes or triangles simply because I hooked them up - they simply didn't work, or if you prefer PGlaves' explanation, the switch hadn't yet learned what it was supposed to do when it was pressed.

Before I would take it to the dealer to see about the "auxillary" lights, I would replace the low beam bulb in the headlight and see if the triangle or any other warnings show up on the dash. I'm also curious if when you press the auxillary light button in its current condition whether the GREEN light on the dash that indicates they are on or off even still shows up.

Physically removing the "auxillary" lights, their wiring harness, and the handlebar switch shouldn't be all that hard. You do need to remove the left front fairing. There are two different connectors above and behind the front wheel. From there the harness goes back to the switch just inside the left handlebar and also branches to the right side light (but no extra connectors on that side.

I'm not entirely sure, but I doubt you can reuse that switch for other auxillary lights. It's a momentary switch and not one that applies continuous power on and off to a circuit directly.

Good Luck
 
Here in this Forum we argue whether a problem is the CANBUS or the ZFE, or PDQ, or ECU, or WTF, or some other three letter something.

To the extent that there was an argument it was resolved. The ZFE controls chassis electrics.

Sent from my SM-T813 using Tapatalk
 
Do you mean your left side OEM "auxillary" light unit fell off the bike, or the LED lamp in the unit doesn't work anymore?
I have a '16 RT that I installed the "auxillary" LED lights on, so here is what I think and/or know.

1. Is it just coincidental that the low beam doesn't work. - Probably, because the low beam lamps are a piece of %*^ and you were riding off-road. They rarely last more than 10,000 miles when on the highway only and many not even that long.
2. Does the factory BMW Driving Light harness have an effect on the headlight circuit? Did the incident throw a code? I have a GS-911. - No affect on the headlight circuits because of the "auxillary" light being "gone". They are completely different circuits because the auxillary lamps can be present or not, and turned on or off at will. The headlights (high and/or low) being burned out do throw a code and illuminate the warning triangle. Speaking of harnesses, if your light IS still attached to the bike have you checked whether the LED lamp isn't working because the modular clip on the harness to the back of the unit has been shaken loose. I'm not sure about a "code" for the auxillary light being "gone", but who cares, you're going to remove them. The code for the high/low headlights when fixed should go away as should the triangle when the bulbs are replaced - but leave a "not present now" status that can be cleared with your GS-911.
3. The BMW lights instructions says to "install and enable only by authorized BMW dealer. What does "enable" mean? - As others have pointed out, only the dealership can "enable" (activate the circuit in the electronics) via their Motherland computer, not your GS-911. I have no idea if it needs to be "de-activated" by the dealer or not to keep the triangle on the dash from bugging you. In my case, installing the OEM "auxillary" lights didn't throw any codes or triangles simply because I hooked them up - they simply didn't work, or if you prefer PGlaves' explanation, the switch hadn't yet learned what it was supposed to do when it was pressed.

Before I would take it to the dealer to see about the "auxillary" lights, I would replace the low beam bulb in the headlight and see if the triangle or any other warnings show up on the dash. I'm also curious if when you press the auxillary light button in its current condition whether the GREEN light on the dash that indicates they are on or off even still shows up.

Physically removing the "auxillary" lights, their wiring harness, and the handlebar switch shouldn't be all that hard. You do need to remove the left front fairing. There are two different connectors above and behind the front wheel. From there the harness goes back to the switch just inside the left handlebar and also branches to the right side light (but no extra connectors on that side.

I'm not entirely sure, but I doubt you can reuse that switch for other auxillary lights. It's a momentary switch and not one that applies continuous power on and off to a circuit directly.

Good Luck
Rainman, the left side aux light fell off, busted off, it it GONE.
1. I will get a new low beam bulb. What are some good ones? What do you think about the Phillips: https://www.powerbulbs.com/us/product/philips-eco-vision-h7-car-headlight-bulbs .
2. New plan... will remove the right side aux light; but will not remove the harness/switch; just going to leave it in place. Not going to remove the entire wiring harness - will leave the wiring harness in place.
3. Presently, the right side aux light turns ON and the green light is ON.
Summary - I think I've got a new plan. New low beam bulb. Remove R-side aux light, leave harness intact. Install new Clearwater Darlas ( Erikas already installed and wiring for Darlas in plug-n-play).
What am I missing?

THANKS to all for your assistance !
 
Is it safe to assume that the engine was running when you determined that the low beam was not working?

I'm not sure about the Wetheads, but the Hex/Camhead low beams remain off until after starting the engine.
 
Is it safe to assume that the engine was running when you determined that the low beam was not working?

I'm not sure about the Wetheads, but the Hex/Camhead low beams remain off until after starting the engine.
Yes, the main beams remain off until engine is running with the wetheads.

Sent from my SM-N970U1 using Tapatalk
 
Is it safe to assume that the engine was running when you determined that the low beam was not working?

I'm not sure about the Wetheads, but the Hex/Camhead low beams remain off until after starting the engine.
Yes, when engine is running, there is no low beam. Time for a new bulb.
 
Yes, the main beams remain off until engine is running with the wetheads.

Sent from my SM-N970U1 using Tapatalk

Not true, for at least for some of the wetheads.

On my '16 RT with the ignition turned on (and engine off), the OEM auxillary lights will turn on with their switch. Likewise, all you have to do is toggle or "flick" the high-beam switch on the front of the left handlebar and the headlights turn on and can be toggled between high and low beams just as if the engine were running. Try it, and see if it doesn't work on all BMW's!

I didn't try this with my RT but at least on my old '07 GT simply moving the bike forward while the ignition was on (and engine off) the headlight would come on. It was a good way of sneaking the bike in or out of the garage :blush or rolling down the street late at night with the engine off. It's a safety issue.
 
Not true, for at least for some of the wetheads.

On my '16 RT with the ignition turned on (and engine off), the OEM auxillary lights will turn on with their switch. Likewise, all you have to do is toggle or "flick" the high-beam switch on the front of the left handlebar and the headlights turn on and can be toggled between high and low beams just as if the engine were running. Try it, and see if it doesn't work on all BMW's!

I didn't try this with my RT but at least on my old '07 GT simply moving the bike forward while the ignition was on (and engine off) the headlight would come on. It was a good way of sneaking the bike in or out of the garage :blush or rolling down the street late at night with the engine off. It's a safety issue.

I'll give it a shot with my R...
 
I'll give it a shot with my R...

So, yes, you can turn on the beams without starting it, I didn't have a chance to try rolling it to see if that powers them up. Not surprising, the main harnesses and ECUs are probably very similar...
 
So this afternoon I went out in the garage, turned the ignition on, didn't start the engine and didn't touch any switches and then rolled the bike forward. Unlike the '07 K1200GT where the single Xenon headlight came on, the '16 RT turned on its angel eyes only (not the headlights) when rolled forward.
 
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