I bumped my old thread. 1. to see when i replaced this battery before. 2. to be confusing.Like Omega man said above, you probably want to throw an ammeter on it when cranking.
I didn't know it had been replaced, so my bad.
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Why won't it start?
- Thread starter r65_steve
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- battery testing
Turned the LED running lights off, it started OK and I went home. Started a few times as a test in my garage and finished the work day from my home office.
Just tested it now with the DVOM connected to the accessory plug (looks like a miniature cigarette lighter). About 12.8v key off. When cranking, I did see it drop to 9.2v for a split second. But it started right up with the lights on or not. So I'm guessing I have a cell on the way out. I may take the battery to Auto Zone after dinner.
Just tested it now with the DVOM connected to the accessory plug (looks like a miniature cigarette lighter). About 12.8v key off. When cranking, I did see it drop to 9.2v for a split second. But it started right up with the lights on or not. So I'm guessing I have a cell on the way out. I may take the battery to Auto Zone after dinner.
Perhaps now check for a loose battery terminal connection.
It would be interesting to hear if Auto Zone has any of the equipment to detect a bad cell. I have a device that will measure the internal resistance of a full size battery. I don’t have faith in what I see when I try to work it on a motorcycle battery.
OM
It would be interesting to hear if Auto Zone has any of the equipment to detect a bad cell. I have a device that will measure the internal resistance of a full size battery. I don’t have faith in what I see when I try to work it on a motorcycle battery.
OM
GTRider
52184
Back in the day, jumping was a pretty straightforward solution. But with all the electronics on today’s bikes it is a much more risky procedure. Still possible, but mind the electronics. Bump starting used to be a good option too, but today’s bikes need enough battery on board to energize the fuel pump, ignition system, and ECU and with a flat or very low battery one can’t generate enough electrical oomph to do that at bump-start speeds.To all: Not sure on this bike, but can't he jump start this battery? I know if his charging system is bad, he might not make it home, but at least he'll know.
Which leads to another question, can he bump start it?
Best,
DeVern
kbasa
Well-known member
Gotta get some zots to run the fuel pump, which can make it tricky. I've push started a K75, if memory serves, though.To all: Not sure on this bike, but can't he jump start this battery? I know if his charging system is bad, he might not make it home, but at least he'll know.
Which leads to another question, can he bump start it?
pauls1150
MOA #24991, south of Los Angeles
NOTE that if you take it to your FLAPS for testing, they typically will want to put a "quick charge" on it first.
Tell them NO - you want to see its condition the way it IS NOW, not the way it is after topping off them 'lectrons.
And yes, the 1150 can be jumped; if one is lucky, there will be a Positive connection point just ahead of the seat and to the right of center, and a big ground post on the rear of the left cylinder., or at least a convenient large grounded bolt head.
Tell them NO - you want to see its condition the way it IS NOW, not the way it is after topping off them 'lectrons.
And yes, the 1150 can be jumped; if one is lucky, there will be a Positive connection point just ahead of the seat and to the right of center, and a big ground post on the rear of the left cylinder., or at least a convenient large grounded bolt head.
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Where is this positive connection? Got a photo? The starter is on the left, no? Where else would there be positive power? And can you get to it without tools?
PGlaves
#13338
The starter is on the left side. It is inside of a plastic cover, right behind the clutch housing. The main power lead for the starter runs directly from the battery to the upper big lug on the starter solenoid. When the solenoid is magnetically energized by the starter relay it engages and connects the current to the starter motor by way of the lowwer lug on the starter solenoid. That plastic cover is held in place by a single torx head capscrew on the side and two rubber covered pins that extend forward into holes in the clutch housing . The heavy wire at the top connector on the solenoid is a direct positive connection to the battery.
Some of the bikes are equipped with a "post" that connects to that hot starter connection and which extends horizontally through a hole in that plastic starter cover. If so, the post can be connected to with a positive +12v wire or cable. If the bike is not so equipped, then the starter cover can be removed and a positive jumper connection can be made directly to that top connector on the solenoid.
This is directly true of the R, RS, and GS models. I am not sure whether the RT models have the starter cover as described. If not, the connections at the starter solenoid are the same in any event hidden by the fairing.
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Ok that's all good to know.
I carry a torx screwdriver with me. I'll pop that cover off to get familiar in my own garage.
Maybe check for a loose connection at the battery terminal while you are in there?
OM
It's been hot and I've been lazy. Let it sit all day Friday. Today I went to start it with the DVOM on and it started showing 8.x V and would crank but not run. After a few cycles of this nonsense i could get it to run in the garage. Tomorrow is Sunday, I'll pull the battery cold and have AZ test it just for grins. If they can't sell me a new one, I just got a Westco battery for my airhead and I'll pull that and install. And not ride the airhead again till the new one shows up.
m_stock10506
Well-known member
Reading your signature line, the 81 R100 uses a 28AH battery and the Oilhead uses a 19-20AH battery. The 28AH battery won't fit.
They actually sent me a small one at my request. It's exactly like (same shape anyhow) as what's on the R1150.
That said, I took the r1150 all apart to take the battery to AutoZone. When I got to the negative terminal, it's was kinda loose. Not backed off but I could spin the bolt...so maybe a bad connection?. I know how German machines like their good grounds. AutoZone checked it and their machine said it was good.
I put it back in and made sure everything is nice and tight. It fires up just fine now but will try again this evening. Planning to ride it to work tomorrow so I hope that's all it was.
Anyone know what size Duralast battery fits this thing? The Autozone computer has no bikes in it. They have a shelf of batteries but no way to look this up. Online is no better. Their website only has cars. I want a back up plan so I don't have to Rob the R100. (Of course I had to swap the bolts for longer ones. What a pain in the butt.)
I hope it cools off so I can ride a little after dinner.
Something like this?
Battery Lookup | 2002 BMW R1150R Motorcycle Battery
Battery Lookup has aftermarket batteries compatible with the 2002 BMW R1150R. This Motorcycle originally came with a Yuasa 51913 power sport battery. The rep
www.batterylookup.com
Yeah I found that site but it's doesn't show duralast, which Autozone sells
I was thinking more about the dimensions which are shown on the site. I presume they're reasonably accurate.
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