Wethead clutch typical lifespan

[alegerlotz]

2016 R1200RT, 44K miles, all maintenance done at recommended intervals and with the proper spec oil.

I have noticed lately that when I back my bike out of the garage (engine off) that it takes a bit more inertia to get the bike rolling with the clutch pulled in and the bike still in 1st gear. I am wondering if this is a sign that the clutch is wearing.

When the bike it running and under normal operation it works fine. I don't slip the clutch much and I use the quickshifter most of the time, so I would think that the amount of wear should be lower than normal for a bike with this mileage.

This is my first bike with a wet clutch, so I really don't know what to look for in terms of knowing when the clutch should be replaced. Will it slip under hard throttle like a dry clutch does? What are the signs that its on its way out? Also, what's the typical life span of a wethead clutch mileage wise?

 

[himself62]

Clutch in rolling I would guess clutch fluid/bleed before I went clutch. I’ve never had to test a dry clutch yet but on a wet clutch you bar it at 45mph in 6th. If it slips any where it will slip there


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[craydds]

I have noticed lately that when I back my bike out of the garage (engine off) that it takes a bit more inertia to get the bike rolling with the clutch pulled in and the bike still in 1st gear. I am wondering if this is a sign that the clutch is wearing.

A worn out clutch would present with the opposite effect described - it would slip more... grab less. With a worn clutch, you could drop it into 1st gear, let out the clutch, and get a lot of slipping; cruise down the road, gas it, and get nothing but engine revs with no forward launch.

 

[alegerlotz]

A worn out clutch would present with the opposite effect described - it would slip more... grab less. With a worn clutch, you could drop it into 1st gear, let out the clutch, and get a lot of slipping; cruise down the road, gas it, and get nothing but engine revs with no forward launch.

Understood on that with the engine running. I didn't know if the initial sticking with the engine shut off, the bike in gear, and the clutch pulled in was a bad thing. I guess its not.

 

[motodan]

2016 R1200RT, 44K miles, all maintenance done at recommended intervals and with the proper spec oil.

I have noticed lately that when I back my bike out of the garage (engine off) that it takes a bit more inertia to get the bike rolling with the clutch pulled in and the bike still in 1st gear. I am wondering if this is a sign that the clutch is wearing.

When the bike it running and under normal operation it works fine. I don't slip the clutch much and I use the quickshifter most of the time, so I would think that the amount of wear should be lower than normal for a bike with this mileage.

This is my first bike with a wet clutch, so I really don't know what to look for in terms of knowing when the clutch should be replaced. Will it slip under hard throttle like a dry clutch does? What are the signs that its on its way out? Also, what's the typical life span of a wethead clutch mileage wise?

Your '85 Yamaha had a wet one...didn't it?

 

[alegerlotz]

Your '85 Yamaha had a wet one...didn't it?

Maybe, I'm not even sure. I only had that for a couple of years (30 years ago) and put 10K miles or so on it before I sold it.

The KTM dirt bike had one, but I only rode that thing once and ended up in emergency surgery, so not much learned there other than I shouldn't be riding a dirtbike.

 

[craydds]

2016 R1200RT, 44K miles, all maintenance done at recommended intervals and with the proper spec oil.

Alegerlotz, I'll bet your clutch is perfectly fine. Low miles, proper maintenance. Unless, there was some serious abuse of which you are unaware. My bike is a 2019 R1250RT, only 17K (aprox.) miles, with impeccable maintenance. If I attempt to push the bike around while in gear - clutch disengaged, motor not running - there is the same drag or resistance as you describe. This is normal. If I try to start the bike in gear, there is a noticeable drag when cold - less prominent when warmed up. When the bike is in gear, even with the clutch lever pulled in, there are alot more parts trying to rotate.

 

[alegerlotz]

Alegerlotz, I'll bet your clutch is perfectly fine. Low miles, proper maintenance. Unless, there was some serious abuse of which you are unaware. My bike is a 2019 R1250RT, only 17K (aprox.) miles, with impeccable maintenance. If I attempt to push the bike around while in gear - clutch disengaged, motor not running - there is the same drag or resistance as you describe. This is normal. If I try to start the bike in gear, there is a noticeable drag when cold - less prominent when warmed up. When the bike is in gear, even with the clutch lever pulled in, there are alot more parts trying to rotate.

There has definitely been no abuse of my clutch as I've owned the bike since new and I slip it as little as possible.

You're describing the exact behavior of my bike. This was the info I was looking for. Thanks

 

[stooie]

You are probably fine.

There is a discussion of a similar issue on the FJR1300 owners forum. There it's diagnosed that the clutch plates have dried out a little bit and stick together, requiring a nudge to free up. Although termed a "wet" clutch, the clutch is not pressure fed; I presume it is just splash-lubed. On some bikes, the plates get just a little drier than optimum and tend to stick together when left sitting for a while. The solution has been to pull the plates and let them soak in oil, reassemble, and the problem is fixed. In all cases I read about, the plates were fine; no replacement of parts was required.

A minor bit of needing a nudge is no cause for alarm and requires no fix. If it becomes truly onerous, then I'd suggest one go the plate-soaking route.

Note: On the FJR the clutch is easily accessed and removed. According to my Haynes manual our wethead clutch doesn't look too hard to get at, at least on the RT. One possible area of concern is that there is no gasket between the clutch housing cover and the engine; it uses a sealant instead. Thus one needs to scrape the old sealant off and apply new goo when reinstalling the cover.

Summary: In the immortal words of Bobby McFerrin, "Don't worry; be happy".

 

[r0ckrat]

In my experience, all wet clutches do this. Partially because they are "clamped" when not in use, so the oil squeezes out and then they get a little stuck, like taking two sheets of glass, wetting one surface, and squeezing them together.

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[uglybetty]

Don't know what the "typical" lifespan is, but I ride a 2017 RT-P and have 93k miles on it. It's on its 4th clutch I believe, but the way we ride we slip the clutch a TON doing slow speed maneuvers and accelerate HARD many many times a day. My last clutch made it 30k I think. I can't imagine a rider who rides the way you describe ever needing a new clutch.

 

[alegerlotz]

Don't know what the "typical" lifespan is, but I ride a 2017 RT-P and have 93k miles on it. It's on its 4th clutch I believe, but the way we ride we slip the clutch a TON doing slow speed maneuvers and accelerate HARD many many times a day. My last clutch made it 30k I think. I can't imagine a rider who rides the way you describe ever needing a new clutch.

Don't get me wrong, its not like I baby my bike, I just don't slip my clutch much. Tires don't last long.

 

[easy]

Don't know what the "typical" lifespan is, but I ride a 2017 RT-P and have 93k miles on it. It's on its 4th clutch I believe, but the way we ride we slip the clutch a TON doing slow speed maneuvers and accelerate HARD many many times a day. My last clutch made it 30k I think. I can't imagine a rider who rides the way you describe ever needing a new clutch.

Thanks, for addressing the question.

E.

 

[PoorUB]

Unless you ride in completion, like a police motor skills competition, you probably will never wear out a wet clutch on any motorcycle unless you abuse it. It noting else, way over 100,000 miles.

On a hydraulic clutch I would replace the fluid if it has not been done.