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Tubed tires req'd for my R65?
- Thread starter HERRBAYEMVAY
- Start date
J
James.A
Guest
More thread fodder
I powder my tubes with corn starch to make 'em slip and slide inside the tire easier. The last thing you want is for your tube to swell up in a sticky place.
I powder my tubes with corn starch to make 'em slip and slide inside the tire easier. The last thing you want is for your tube to swell up in a sticky place.
D
dlearl476
Guest
Pourous or not, BMW recalled snowflake wheels because problems in manufacture (and possibly design) resulting in spokes that cracked at the hub. IIRC, the later design had extra ribbing to support the junction. A person who KNOWS can tell if you have the original, dangerous, design still on your bike.
That BMW would PAY to replace wheels because they leaked air is comedy beyond compare. They won't even replace their NFG drive shafts with any regularity.
>That is, they do not approve plugs and insist on internal patches.
Call me cynical, but IMHO it's the LEGAL department that doesn't approve of plugs. In my limited experience (two plugs so far for a total of ~8k miles), they work fine. Both times I was well aware of a problem before my tire came anywhwere near losing a bead. IMHO, if you DID sustain a catastrophic loss of TP that would cause an unbeading, a) you would have tire damage far and above what a plug could patch and b) fixing a flat would be the last thing on your mind. YMMV
That BMW would PAY to replace wheels because they leaked air is comedy beyond compare. They won't even replace their NFG drive shafts with any regularity.
>That is, they do not approve plugs and insist on internal patches.
Call me cynical, but IMHO it's the LEGAL department that doesn't approve of plugs. In my limited experience (two plugs so far for a total of ~8k miles), they work fine. Both times I was well aware of a problem before my tire came anywhwere near losing a bead. IMHO, if you DID sustain a catastrophic loss of TP that would cause an unbeading, a) you would have tire damage far and above what a plug could patch and b) fixing a flat would be the last thing on your mind. YMMV
flash412
Loose Cannon
I powder my tubes with talcum powder. Also, I inflate tires to 50psi (after the bead seats), then I remove the valve core and let all the air out, then replace core and inflate to final pressure. This gives the tube a chance to "re-settle" inside the tire after the bead is seated.woodnsteel said:
J
James.A
Guest
Panties?...what panties?
S
srb
Guest
speaking of porosity
"More than rubber? Ever blow up a toy ballon and leave it over night?"
That balloon gets smaller because the warm air you blew into it has cooled and now takes up less space, not because of the porosity of the rubber.
"More than rubber? Ever blow up a toy ballon and leave it over night?"
That balloon gets smaller because the warm air you blew into it has cooled and now takes up less space, not because of the porosity of the rubber.
Well, BMW designed it's "snowflake" wheels in a time when motorcycle tires were almost all tube type. So, the rim beads were tapered, just as spoked wheel rims were. And since the tube-type wheels assumed an innertube to hold air, tubes were appropriate even for the "snowflake" wheels.
But that was then, and this is now. Tube-type tires are rare for street bikes (other than some cruisers), and tubeless tires assume no innertube, so there is no need to be concerned about friction between tire and tube. Take a good like inside a tubeless tire, and it's common to see all sorts of sharp ridges that could rub an innertube raw, with or without medicated crotch powder. That's probably the big reason for not using a tube inside a tubeless tire.
Yes, low pressure aluminum castings are notoriously porous, but so are natural rubber innertubes. And, as some old timers can attest, the synthetic innertubes didn't leak air slowly, but they had a nasty habit of suddenly splitting open. I've run both types of tubes in both tube and tubeless tires, in various combinations on both snowflake and spoked wheels, and had deflations in all types. The bottom line is that there is a mysterious black hole in the universe into which tire air is drawn when you aren't looking. It's related to the black hole where fork fluid goes.
If you get severe headaches from the thought of not using an innertube inside a tubeless tire mounted on a snowflake rim, by all means install an innertube. Based on my experience, when the tube lets go, it will slip around inside the tire into a wad near the valve stem, and the severely unbalanced wheel will clue you to look inside the tire, even though the tire remains inflated. (Well, there are some folks who will first attempt to rebalance the tire with a couple bottles of slime, which creates some VERY interesting tire dynamics, but that's another string.)
On the other hand, if you don't get severe headaches from the idea of mounting a tubeless tire on a snowflake rim without a tube, it will very likely do just fine, in spite of the dire warnings from the pro-condom crowd. It's a marriage of old and new technology, and BMW didn't plan it.
And, regardless of what sort of wheel/tire/tube/stem system you choose, I suggest that what's really important is to get the air pressurized to the appropriate numbers before you ride away. Low pressures are a prime contributor to sudden deflations.
pmdave
But that was then, and this is now. Tube-type tires are rare for street bikes (other than some cruisers), and tubeless tires assume no innertube, so there is no need to be concerned about friction between tire and tube. Take a good like inside a tubeless tire, and it's common to see all sorts of sharp ridges that could rub an innertube raw, with or without medicated crotch powder. That's probably the big reason for not using a tube inside a tubeless tire.
Yes, low pressure aluminum castings are notoriously porous, but so are natural rubber innertubes. And, as some old timers can attest, the synthetic innertubes didn't leak air slowly, but they had a nasty habit of suddenly splitting open. I've run both types of tubes in both tube and tubeless tires, in various combinations on both snowflake and spoked wheels, and had deflations in all types. The bottom line is that there is a mysterious black hole in the universe into which tire air is drawn when you aren't looking. It's related to the black hole where fork fluid goes.
If you get severe headaches from the thought of not using an innertube inside a tubeless tire mounted on a snowflake rim, by all means install an innertube. Based on my experience, when the tube lets go, it will slip around inside the tire into a wad near the valve stem, and the severely unbalanced wheel will clue you to look inside the tire, even though the tire remains inflated. (Well, there are some folks who will first attempt to rebalance the tire with a couple bottles of slime, which creates some VERY interesting tire dynamics, but that's another string.)
On the other hand, if you don't get severe headaches from the idea of mounting a tubeless tire on a snowflake rim without a tube, it will very likely do just fine, in spite of the dire warnings from the pro-condom crowd. It's a marriage of old and new technology, and BMW didn't plan it.
And, regardless of what sort of wheel/tire/tube/stem system you choose, I suggest that what's really important is to get the air pressurized to the appropriate numbers before you ride away. Low pressures are a prime contributor to sudden deflations.
pmdave
J
James.A
Guest
A follow-up
Thanks for the info Dave. Here is a question that might be relevant for some of us. Since most tires are now tubeless type tires, what about those of us who MUST use tubes. I only use the corn starch for seating the inner tube on the initial inflation. I have lost a few tubes to pinch situations on initital pressurization, and dusting is a trick I picked up from another rider who does all his own work. Since I started dusting my tubes, I have not had a catastrophic failure on the first airing. It never occurred to me that there might be any benefit beyond that. So if tubless tires might be rough on the inside, and tubeless tires are prevalent, are we shooting crap to use them on early airheads with spoked wheels, needing an inner-tube? I can testify to the fact that the stiffer tubeless tire beads are more difficult to fit by hand. Extra lubrication on the install is most beneficial. Would it advantageous to inspect NEW tires and carefully remove internal irregularities?
Thanks for the info Dave. Here is a question that might be relevant for some of us. Since most tires are now tubeless type tires, what about those of us who MUST use tubes. I only use the corn starch for seating the inner tube on the initial inflation. I have lost a few tubes to pinch situations on initital pressurization, and dusting is a trick I picked up from another rider who does all his own work. Since I started dusting my tubes, I have not had a catastrophic failure on the first airing. It never occurred to me that there might be any benefit beyond that. So if tubless tires might be rough on the inside, and tubeless tires are prevalent, are we shooting crap to use them on early airheads with spoked wheels, needing an inner-tube? I can testify to the fact that the stiffer tubeless tire beads are more difficult to fit by hand. Extra lubrication on the install is most beneficial. Would it advantageous to inspect NEW tires and carefully remove internal irregularities?
YOCKYRIDES
New member
Tubed tires req'd for my R65
I'm riding an 83R65. Always ran it with tubes. Switched from the original Contis to Metzelers. It has gotten harder to get my size tires. Keep an eye on tire wear and plan ahead in case the dealer needs to obtain stock for you. 18's used to be very common but apparently that isn't the case anymore.
I'm riding an 83R65. Always ran it with tubes. Switched from the original Contis to Metzelers. It has gotten harder to get my size tires. Keep an eye on tire wear and plan ahead in case the dealer needs to obtain stock for you. 18's used to be very common but apparently that isn't the case anymore.
LORAZEPAM
leave my monkey alone
Try tires unlimited for the sizes you need. I found some gs type tires in 18 and 19 inch sizes. Reasonable pricing, too. http://www.tiresunlimited.com/motorcycle_tires.htmYockyRides said:
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