Hi - I am reviving an 1982 R80ST that I acquired last fall. It was barely running, caked with some old oil or tar substance, bald tires, no front brakes, and more. There is plenty to do on it, but my goal is to get it ridable and address things as they come up vs doing an entire rebuild up front. I am close to the point where I feel comfortable riding it but am stuck on a few things and looking for guidance and/or affirmation on other things.
Spark Plugs - There’s a lot of conflicting info online, so I’m seeking practical guidance. From what I understand, I DO NOT want resistor plugs (anything with an “R” in the part number), as I believe my plug caps are original and already have resistance. The Haynes manual lists W7D as the correct plug type; PO had BPR6ES installed (a resistor plug). I've purchased the EME recommended BP6ES, but they are considered equivalent to W6D, not W7D. EME recommends WR7DC+ as equivalent to the W7DC, but confusing as it’s a resistor plug. So now I’m wondering if the heat range difference 6 vs. 7 is important enough to seek a non-resister W7D alternative? The BP7ES seems to be out of stock (perhaps decommissioned).
Floats - I seem to be stuck in a dance with one of my carbs where the float height either results in overflow or no fuel at all. They are the (assume original), now yellowed floats. But I tested them and they did float. I suspected that they were not floating enough and so any adjustment was too much to dial in, so I broke down and spent the $50 for new ones today. But I am second guessing myself - perhaps they were just stuck. They move freely when the bowls are off, but curious if there are known sticking points inside the bowls. I may test pinching them closer together as perhaps they are running on the walls? I will put the new ones on when they come regardless; this is more about me getting to know the carbs and the float dynamics better.
Front brake - Bleeding produced some nasty looking brake fluid, which probably means I need to do a full rebuild. But, bleeding allowed me to get a workable front brake. However, the lever itself is squishing when I pull it, so I assume some sort of seal leak. Are these typically repairable with a good clean and new rubbers (economical) or do they usually require replacement all together (expensive)?
Front forks - I noticed on my machine it has a lower fork brace that lives above the front fender, in addition to the one that lives below the fender. Most pictures I see of original STs don't have this. Mine is an earlier 12/82 model so perhaps they changed production for later models. Any data or beliefs on if this is necessary or a preferred setup for handing? Its a bit ugly aesthetically, so why I ask. Also, I need to replace the fork boots (boots, not covers in this version). When taking off the fork tubes to install, any gotchas to watch out for on the install? I watched Brook's video on the R80ST charity rebuild, and he went through a very long process of making sure they were in parallel. My Honda of the same era is a remove and install with not much concern given to these things, so it is new to me.
Plenty more but these are the items top of my mind at the moment.
Spark Plugs - There’s a lot of conflicting info online, so I’m seeking practical guidance. From what I understand, I DO NOT want resistor plugs (anything with an “R” in the part number), as I believe my plug caps are original and already have resistance. The Haynes manual lists W7D as the correct plug type; PO had BPR6ES installed (a resistor plug). I've purchased the EME recommended BP6ES, but they are considered equivalent to W6D, not W7D. EME recommends WR7DC+ as equivalent to the W7DC, but confusing as it’s a resistor plug. So now I’m wondering if the heat range difference 6 vs. 7 is important enough to seek a non-resister W7D alternative? The BP7ES seems to be out of stock (perhaps decommissioned).
Floats - I seem to be stuck in a dance with one of my carbs where the float height either results in overflow or no fuel at all. They are the (assume original), now yellowed floats. But I tested them and they did float. I suspected that they were not floating enough and so any adjustment was too much to dial in, so I broke down and spent the $50 for new ones today. But I am second guessing myself - perhaps they were just stuck. They move freely when the bowls are off, but curious if there are known sticking points inside the bowls. I may test pinching them closer together as perhaps they are running on the walls? I will put the new ones on when they come regardless; this is more about me getting to know the carbs and the float dynamics better.
Front brake - Bleeding produced some nasty looking brake fluid, which probably means I need to do a full rebuild. But, bleeding allowed me to get a workable front brake. However, the lever itself is squishing when I pull it, so I assume some sort of seal leak. Are these typically repairable with a good clean and new rubbers (economical) or do they usually require replacement all together (expensive)?
Front forks - I noticed on my machine it has a lower fork brace that lives above the front fender, in addition to the one that lives below the fender. Most pictures I see of original STs don't have this. Mine is an earlier 12/82 model so perhaps they changed production for later models. Any data or beliefs on if this is necessary or a preferred setup for handing? Its a bit ugly aesthetically, so why I ask. Also, I need to replace the fork boots (boots, not covers in this version). When taking off the fork tubes to install, any gotchas to watch out for on the install? I watched Brook's video on the R80ST charity rebuild, and he went through a very long process of making sure they were in parallel. My Honda of the same era is a remove and install with not much concern given to these things, so it is new to me.
Plenty more but these are the items top of my mind at the moment.
