-
Welcome, Guest! We hope you enjoy the excellent technical knowledge, event information and discussions that the BMW MOA forum provides. Some forum content will be hidden from you if you remain logged out. If you want to view all content, please click the 'Log in' button above and enter your BMW MOA username and password. If you are not an MOA member, why not take the time to join the club, so you can enjoy posting on the forum, the BMW Owners News magazine, and all of the discounts and benefits the BMW MOA offers?
-
Beginning April 1st, and running through April 30th, there is a new 2024 BMW MOA Election discussion area within The Club section of the forum. Within this forum area is also a sticky post that provides the ground rules for participating in the Election forum area. Also, the candidates statements are provided. Please read before joining the conversation, because the rules are very specific to maintain civility.
The Election forum is here: Election Forum
Trying to identify one odd caliper bleeder
- Thread starter flhfxd
- Start date
i recently had the exact same question
it's a fitting that BMW uses to connect to some sort of dealer auto bleeder machine. IIRC, you can put a standard bleed screw into the top of it after you unscrew the top bolt. After that, you have a normal bleeding procedure....
Sorry that i can't give you any pics.
it's a fitting that BMW uses to connect to some sort of dealer auto bleeder machine. IIRC, you can put a standard bleed screw into the top of it after you unscrew the top bolt. After that, you have a normal bleeding procedure....
Sorry that i can't give you any pics.
Ok. That makes sense. A hook up point for the mityvac.
rxcrider
New member
It takes the same bleed adapter as the hydraulic clutch which you should be doing as well. I think it is almost a standard m10x1.00 bleed screw except for the flat nose and thread sealant.
34 21 2 330 310 VENT SCREW 0.02 1 $10.95
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/service_abs3.pdf
34 21 2 330 310 VENT SCREW 0.02 1 $10.95
http://advwisdom.hogranch.com/Wisdom/service_abs3.pdf
AntonLargiader
Active member
You can also completely remove that part and replace it with a standard bleed nipple.
rxcrider
New member
M10 x 1.00 as well?
AntonLargiader
Active member
Yes, standard bleed screw, 10x1. Everything there is 10x1.
I tried screwing a bleeder screw where the plug is and it seemed like there was a spring loaded valve below the plug that made using a bleeder screw a pain. Might have just been me though.
m_stock10506
Well-known member
Look at the earlier post and photo by bigtwin showing the bleed valve and mentioning that the bottom tip of the bleeder might have to be ground down slightly. Yes, there is a spring loaded check valve in there to keep the brake fluid from just pouring out when the cap is removed. The BMW bleed valve will fit in the place of that cap.
lowndes
New member
Factory Fill Adapter
Just remove the entire "barrel thing". There are three on the bike: right front caliper, rear caliper, and "vent" or bleeder line on the slave cylinder for the clutch. (there are two 6mm banjo fittings on the top of the slave cylinder, one goes to the handlebar reservoir/master cylinder, the other is on this 14 inch long bleeder line with the barrel thing on the other end) The barrel thing has a protective black foam sheath over it and a black zip tie holding it to the transverse bar just above the rear swing arm pivot, under and behind the clutch slave cylinder. These are factory installed to facilitate filling each system at the factory. They are also loc-tighted in. Put some muscle on it and replace with the standard M10x1.0 bleed nipple and dust cover, as others have suggested.
Be aware that bleed nipples (bleed screws) do leak around the threads when you bleed or replace the brake fluid. They will leak brake fluid if you pressure fill (from the top or bottom) and brake fluid eats paint, plastic, etc. They will leak air (bubbles) if you are using a vacuum system (looks like you are still getting air out of your lines). Some PVC thread tape will prevent the leaking and save you aggravation and brake fluid.
Just remove the entire "barrel thing". There are three on the bike: right front caliper, rear caliper, and "vent" or bleeder line on the slave cylinder for the clutch. (there are two 6mm banjo fittings on the top of the slave cylinder, one goes to the handlebar reservoir/master cylinder, the other is on this 14 inch long bleeder line with the barrel thing on the other end) The barrel thing has a protective black foam sheath over it and a black zip tie holding it to the transverse bar just above the rear swing arm pivot, under and behind the clutch slave cylinder. These are factory installed to facilitate filling each system at the factory. They are also loc-tighted in. Put some muscle on it and replace with the standard M10x1.0 bleed nipple and dust cover, as others have suggested.
Be aware that bleed nipples (bleed screws) do leak around the threads when you bleed or replace the brake fluid. They will leak brake fluid if you pressure fill (from the top or bottom) and brake fluid eats paint, plastic, etc. They will leak air (bubbles) if you are using a vacuum system (looks like you are still getting air out of your lines). Some PVC thread tape will prevent the leaking and save you aggravation and brake fluid.
lowndes
New member
Factory Fill Adapter
Just remove the entire "barrel thing". There are three on the bike: right front caliper, rear caliper, and "vent" or bleeder line on the slave cylinder for the clutch. (there are two 6mm banjo fittings on the top of the slave cylinder, one goes to the handlebar reservoir/master cylinder, the other is on this 14 inch long bleeder line with the barrel thing on the other end) The barrel thing has a protective black foam sheath over it and a black zip tie holding it to the transverse bar just above the rear swing arm pivot, under and behind the clutch slave cylinder. These are factory installed to facilitate filling each system at the factory. They are also loc-tighted in. Put some muscle on it and replace with the standard M10x1.0 bleed nipple and dust cover, as others have suggested.
Be aware that bleed nipples (bleed screws) do leak around the threads when you bleed or replace the brake fluid. They will leak brake fluid if you pressure fill (from the top or bottom) and brake fluid eats paint, plastic, etc. They will leak air (bubbles) if you are using a vacuum system (looks like you are still getting air out of your lines). Some PVC thread tape will prevent the leaking and save you aggravation and brake fluid.
Just remove the entire "barrel thing". There are three on the bike: right front caliper, rear caliper, and "vent" or bleeder line on the slave cylinder for the clutch. (there are two 6mm banjo fittings on the top of the slave cylinder, one goes to the handlebar reservoir/master cylinder, the other is on this 14 inch long bleeder line with the barrel thing on the other end) The barrel thing has a protective black foam sheath over it and a black zip tie holding it to the transverse bar just above the rear swing arm pivot, under and behind the clutch slave cylinder. These are factory installed to facilitate filling each system at the factory. They are also loc-tighted in. Put some muscle on it and replace with the standard M10x1.0 bleed nipple and dust cover, as others have suggested.
Be aware that bleed nipples (bleed screws) do leak around the threads when you bleed or replace the brake fluid. They will leak brake fluid if you pressure fill (from the top or bottom) and brake fluid eats paint, plastic, etc. They will leak air (bubbles) if you are using a vacuum system (looks like you are still getting air out of your lines). Some PVC thread tape will prevent the leaking and save you aggravation and brake fluid.
