Transmission Linkage

[jscottbrauer]

Just a quick question, I own a preowned 2010 R1200RT with about 10,500 miles on it. I purchased it with 7800 and I have always noticed that when I"m in first gear and pull the clutch lever back and again when I engage the clutch I hear a faint sound of linkage as it disengages and engages the clutch. In addition, If I am in traffic just crawling along, as I engage and disengage the clutch I hear that faint clunking sound. Is this normal? Sometimes if the rpm's are a little higher and I engage and disengage the clutch a little slower it doesn't make any sound. ??? Can anyone clear this up for me?

 

[deilenberger]

I'm a bit confused.. what is the "sound of linkage"..?

You mention a "faint clunking sound" when crawling along engaging/disengaging.. absolutely normal. There is play in the gear train, and you're heading it. With the bike up on the centerstand, engine off, put it in 1st gear - then go to the rear wheel and try turning it. Don't be surprised if you get 3-5" of turn on the rear wheel, with a clunk at each end. It's play in all the gears in the transmission, play in the rear-drive gears, a slight amount of play in the splines on the driveshaft and clutch disk.. it all adds up. Tolerance add-up sort of thing. The clearances are necessary for things to work without excessive wear and heating.

I'm guessing (nothing indicated in your message) that this is your first BMW shaft-drive bike? It's a BMW thing. Some do the clunk worse than others, some models are worse than others, and some within a production run are worse than others.

 

[jscottbrauer]

I'm a bit confused.. what is the "sound of linkage"..?

You mention a "faint clunking sound" when crawling along engaging/disengaging.. absolutely normal. There is play in the gear train, and you're heading it. With the bike up on the centerstand, engine off, put it in 1st gear - then go to the rear wheel and try turning it. Don't be surprised if you get 3-5" of turn on the rear wheel, with a clunk at each end. It's play in all the gears in the transmission, play in the rear-drive gears, a slight amount of play in the splines on the driveshaft and clutch disk.. it all adds up. Tolerance add-up sort of thing. The clearances are necessary for things to work without excessive wear and heating.

I'm guessing (nothing indicated in your message) that this is your first BMW shaft-drive bike? It's a BMW thing. Some do the clunk worse than others, some models are worse than others, and some within a production run are worse than others.

Thanks very much for your input. You are absolutely right it's my first BMW shaft drive and I love it. Wish I would have purchased it a long time ago. You have eased my mind, have a great weekend and safe riding.

Robocop

 

[jfmoore430]

My '73 1/2 R75/5, '96 R1100RT, and my '11 R1200GSA all had the same clunk! I always wondered do the K bikes have the same German transmission? Is this forever gone with the new Wet Heads? I think I heard that they are now Japanese transmissions. Is the 5th gear drone gone as well?

 

[jfmoore430]

I don't know if there are any inmates watching this thread but I have had an interesting experience. Three weeks ago I spent 4 days riding in WNC doing the Tail of the Dragon, Cherahola Pkwy and all of the BRP in NC. Over those 4 days I was always in 2,3,4,or 5th gear due to the twisties or traffic. The bike is R1200GSA, 2011 with 28,000 miles on it. I have never spent that much time in the transitional gears. The shifting is now quieter and smoother! The change is noticeable! Was it a case where my tendency to highway miles left a grouping of gears not broken in? I just took my wife to Okracoke for the weekend and the shifting has never been smoother. Has anyone else had this experience?

 

[roamingbeemer]

My 2011 GSA shifts like cutting butter now. I also remember more clunking earlier but not sure I understand how it could get smoother with more miles.

 

[lkchris]

Couple things about transitioning to a BMW...

Up until the watercooled twins, BMW have had dry clutches, same as a car/truck. Most other bikes have clutches in an oil bath, so no surprise the dry clutch is noisier. Plus you don't have the firewall and cabin floor of a car to absorb the noise. Plus a twin isn't as smooth as a four, so some shaking of components occurs at idle.

Transitioning from a carbureted bike to a fuel injected bike makes for some relearning on how to keep shifting smooth. Carbs are dumping fuel the entire time the bike's running, unlike the fairly severe on/off fuel delivery of fuel injection. Fuel injection doesn't keep spritzing when you're off the throttle.

 

[roamingbeemer]

As per the OP, I also think the clunking noise the OP posted was the dry clutch engaging and disengaging. This is why we do not hear that on the K bikes, at least not my K1300.

Slightly related, My 2011 R1200gsa has very little slack in the drive train compared to my 09 K13 when moving the rear wheel back and forth slightly. I actually went to the dealer and played with a few rear wheels to make sure this was normal.

I agree that shifting technique and skill make a huge difference in how it shifts. Preloading and good throttle control is the key in my opinion.

These drives have a shock absorber but not sure how stiff it is. I have never seen one and a tech told me he has only seen one go bad back in the 1990s.

 

[wvpc]

They all do that. Mine is a 2012.

 

[jfmoore430]

The is my 3rd boxer over 20 years and none of the others had this break in feel after a lot of miles. I suspect my shifting technic is pretty consistent. It sure is smoother after 4 days of all 2-5 gear riding. Thanks for the comments.